Boaters are always looking to expand their “real estate” on the water, and many have turned to floating mats to allow friends and family to recline in the water as well as in the boat. Increasingly, inflatable models are favorites because they can be stowed in duffel bags for easy transport and quickly inflated at the sandbar for sunning platforms or wrestling mats, and those with slick surfaces make a fun water slide. 

Two of the most popular brands—Bote and Mission Outdoor—offer a variety of mats, from inflated “doughnuts” with mesh slings and nearly rigid inflatable mats. Foam mats ­started the trend, and inflated mats ­expanded it with more-buoyant mats that are sometimes used for service docks.

How We Tested

We wanted to see how difficult, or easy, they were to transport, inflate and enjoy. We ­discovered that while you can stand on them, moving about is much easier if there is something solid such as a boat gunwale to grip.

Cautions

Mission Outdoor recommends not tethering the mat firmly to a transom but rather leave 10 feet of space from any hard surface to prevent injury from the inevitable roughhousing. That’s a good ­precaution for all of them. 

Common Characteristics

They all deflated naturally, but ­reversing the electric pump better removed remaining air for more-compact packing. Both brands have optional 12-volt pumps that ease inflation, though we didn’t find that this saved time, just effort. Topping off to appropriate psi for the load after electric inflation requires hand-pumping (hand pumps included) for an ­additional minute or so.

Bote Inflatable Dock 10 Native Paradise

This large device took more time and effort to inflate than all the others due to its greater volume. Using an electric pump available from Bote ($170) accelerated the process a little, but its main benefit was to reduce sweat equity from using the hand pump. The electric pump gets the device only halfway to its ideal inflation of 4 to 6 psi (depending on the number of people), but it took only a minute or so with the included hand pump to firm it up. Grab handles on all four sides assist in clambering back aboard if a push causes a sudden departure. D-rings are also strategically placed to fasten the dock to the boat or to other mats or even an anchor. Whether it was the 10-by-10-foot dimension, the 8-inch thickness or the traction from the surf mat surface, we found walking on it to be easier. A firm grip on something also enhances secure footing. At more than 70 pounds, its pack size is bulky and heavy.

• MSRP: $1,099
• Inflated Dimension: 10’ x 10’ x 8”; 100 square feet
• Capacity: 1,500 lb.
• Optimal Inflation: 6 to 8 psi
• Packed Dimension: 5’ long x 1’6” diameter, rolled
• Packed Weight: 72 lb.
• Inflation Time, Hand Pump: 7 minutes
• Included: Hand pump, carrying case, patch kit

Mission Outdoor Reef 85 Inflatable Water Mat

The length and width of this mat formed a pretty cool Slip ’N Slide-like -surface, if you remember those summer water toys from past decades. Just make sure the surface is wet so that you slide over it instead of sticking to it. As a wrestling platform, they are unequaled, and the ability to push your opponent safely off the mat is a nice bonus. Grab handles on the ends assist in reboarding or carrying the inflated toy to the water. Mission opted to keep the surface a simple smooth finish, rather than adding a textured or surf mat finish. They did this to keep its pack size compact and easier to move. We found it difficult to walk on the mat—not because it was slippery, but a younger, slimmer enthusiast would probably fare better maintaining balance. Keeping one hand on something that moved less, such as the gunwale or transom platform, offered more-solid footing. We could see its DIY possibilities—as a platform from which to wash or wax a boat, or to change outboard motor oil or gear lube for a boat stored on a lift.

• MSRP: $849
• Best Online Price: $749 at amazon.com
• Inflated Dimension: 6’5” x 1’1” x 4”; 84.5 square feet
• Capacity: 1,750 lb.
• Optimal Inflation: 4 psi
• Packed Dimension: 31” x 9” x 18”
• Packed Weight: 50 lb.
• Inflation Time, Hand Pump: 5 minutes
• Included: High-volume hand pump, wheeled carry duffel, patch kit

Mission Outdoor Reef Lite Splash Floating Pool

This style inflatable mat is my fave for sandbar hangouts and raft-up parties. Why? It’s a cross between a mat, a lounge and a great big kiddie pool. The mesh sling surrounded by a firmly inflated ring makes a place where people can sit, feet inside or out, or stretch out inside, lounging up against the inflatable ring. You can cool off while stretched in the water catching rays, or you can compromise by dipping your toes in while sitting upright on the firm inflatable ring. There are D-rings for securing it to other floats or the boat. When deflated, it packs down into an easy-to-transport backpack that could stow away in most ski lockers. Our inflation time was 30 seconds longer than manufacturer’s specs, but it would have been quicker with a more energetic pumper. We liked its compact transport size and easy-to-carry weight of just 23 pounds.

• MSRP: $699
• Best Online Price: $699 at various retailers
• Inflated Dimension: 8’ x 9’ x 4”
• Capacity: 1,500 lb.
• Optimal Inflation: 4 to 6 psi
• Packed Dimension: 6″ x 15″ x 34″
• Packed Weight: 23 lb.
• Inflation Time, Hand Pump: 2 minutes
• Included: Pump, backpack duffel carrier, repair kit

Read Next: 12 Gadgets to Improve Your Time on the Water

Bote Inflatable Hangout Water Hammock 10 Classic

The mack daddy of water hammocks has a thickness of 8 inches, adding firmness and buoyancy to the floating ring. The textured mat on the deck is like a surf mat and adds secure footing, durability, and good looks. In both our mesh-centered float rings, the center sloped into the water, making for cool lounging and setting up a playpen or kiddie pool that small kids will love. For adults, Bote has molded-in Magnepod magnetic drink holders for accessory insulated cups, tumblers, water bottles (from $21.50 each) and a floating, waterproof Bluetooth speaker (from $70). We set the cups on the magnets and lifted, then dropped one edge of the ring from over 1 foot, and the cup remained firmly in place.

• MSRP: $999
• Inflated Dimension: 10’ diameter x 8” thick
• Capacity: 1,200 lb.
• Optimal Inflation: 4 to 6 psi
• Packed Dimension: 2’8” x 2’5” x 1’1”
• packed Weight: 57 lb.
• Inflation Time, Hand Pump: 5 minutes
• Included: Hand pump, wheeled carry bag, repair kit

The post Inflatable Water Mats for Boaters appeared first on Boating Mag.

Yamaha Marine stole the limelight at the 2024 Miami International Boat Show in February when it revealed a 450 hp hydrogen-powered V-8 outboard. It featured a Roush Performance fuel-delivery system in a 26-foot 26 XO Regulator Marine hull. The deck was off to reveal three 6-foot-long cylindrical-shaped hydrogen fuel tanks and a custom stringer grid, to nest them securely and protect them from deformation in operation. At that time, preliminary testing of the motor and vessel indicated a range of 50 to 75 miles based on the estimated 23 kilograms of hydrogen pressurized to 10,000 psi in high-pressure, plastic-lined composite-overwrapped fuel tanks. 

It brought up a big question: What does this portend for the future of recreational boating? Is this concept ready for prime time or just a pipe dream?

“It’s not optimized—yet,” says Grant Suzuki, chief technology engineer in charge of the marine innovation development division of Yamaha’s business unit. 

Matt Van Benschoten, Roush vice president of advanced engineering, agrees. “A gas tank in that vessel would hold about 107 gallons of fuel,” he explains. “Our goal, for this first H₂ fuel system, was to store approximately one-quarter of the gasoline energy content. The resulting fuel system achieves this goal.”

“The hydrogen initiative is an important pillar of three technologies on a pathway to carbon neutrality: hydrogen, electrification, and sustainable fuel,” ­Suzuki says. 

Yamaha is not alone in its ­research. The National Marine Manufacturers Association has an alternative-fuel initiative that encourages and empowers manufacturers to develop lower-­carbon fuels. Hydrogen is one of the NMMA’s favorites, but so are renewable fuels such as biobutanol, a distillate of organic materials.

In the Beginning

In the 1980s, the California Air ­Resources Board began to demand lower emissions from fuel-thirsty two-stroke ­outboard engines that essentially drooled unburned fuel from their ­exhaust ports. By the late ’90s, Yamaha had perfected HPDI, regarded as the most reliable two-stroke direct-fuel-
injection system. It used computer wizardry to directly inject atomized fuel into the combustion chambers only after the piston stroke closed the exhaust port. Old two-stroke engines charged the combustion chambers while they were still open—a practice that was particularly wasteful at slower speeds. HPDI stopped the waste of blowing wet fuel through the inefficient two-stroke induction system, reduced emissions enormously, and maintained the power and torque for which two-stroke
tech was known. After that, in the early 2000s, Yamaha began research-and-development tasks using fuel cells and alternative fuels such as hydrogen. 

At the same time, ­automakers such as Toyota, BMW and GM had well-developed fuel-cell ­prototypes. So did Yamaha in its motorcycle division. 

Hydrogen fuel cells create electricity by initiating a chemical reaction between hydrogen and oxygen in a process called electrolysis. This electricity powers an electric motor—sometimes several, as in the case of numerous commuter buses operating in California. Several fuel-cell cars are on the market today, such as the Toyota Marai, but only 60 or so hydrogen fuel stations exist to refuel them. The cost most recently reported, in late 2023, was $36 per kilogram. In a fuel-cell Marai, that amounted to 50 cents per mile in fuel costs: green, maybe, but prohibitively expensive and not widely marketable. The exhaust produced by a hydrogen fuel cell consists of water vapor and warm air. Emissions are nil.

“That early work on fuel cells led us to experiment on the viability of hydrogen as an internal-combustion-engine fuel,” Suzuki explains of Yamaha’s efforts.

And that’s how the 26-foot Regulator concept boat with a hydrogen-powered Yamaha V-8 came to be and was placed on exhibit at one of the world’s most important boat shows.

Hydrogen Pros and Cons

The potential advantage of hydrogen-fueled power lies in its use of conventional internal-combustion-engine technology, according to Yamaha. The twist is that the compressed hydrogen is delivered to the combustion chamber in a regulated manner, not atomized or vaporized gasoline forced in with the pressurized injection systems used in today’s engines.

Roush has decades of experience in this area, having developed many fuel-delivery systems for everything from aerospace applications to land-speed-­record vehicles. Roush’s systems replace conventional port or ­direct-injection systems and engine control modules, and often integrate supercharging ­technology.

Roush’s Van Benschoten ­explained the challenges of the ­fuel-delivery system. “Three Type 4 tanks hold about 7.5 kilograms of hydrogen [per tank] at 700 bar (10,000 psi),” he says. “Type 4 tanks are made with a plastic liner and composite overwrap. Tanks expand and shrink during each fuel-burn-refuel cycle, so it’s important to design a mounting system that does not overconstrain the tanks.”

Clearly the engine and fuel system are a heavy lift, but ­according to Joan Maxwell, ­Regulator’s president and CEO, her company is up to the task. 

“One of the challenges of this project was simply trying to place highly pressurized tanks in existing hulls,” she says. “For us at Regulator, it was a proof of concept.”

Regulator enlisted its top ­engineers to reform the 26 XO’s stringer grid to accept the tanks and protect them from deformation during use and abuse, then fit that into a boat. The design had to accommodate high-pressure fuel lines to transfer hydrogen to the fuel-delivery system at a rate to let the engine develop optimal horsepower, as well as accommodate the tanks’ expansion and contraction during burn and refuel cycles.

From 700 bar in the tanks, the hydrogen pressure must be stepped down through a series of regulators to 100 bar, or about 1,500 psi, which is the pressure at which the fuel injectors deliver the H₂ into the combustion chambers. 

Engineering challenges of fuel delivery include managing the ­ratio of oxygen to hydrogen being delivered into the ­combustion chamber and controlling ignition timing appropriately to account for the shorter burn duration of hydrogen-air ­versus gasoline-air vapor. The process, naturally, requires custom ­computerized engine controls. 

“Another challenge is the ­potential embrittlement of steel alloys, which, when not selected appropriately for a ­hydrogen-rich environment, can experience a reduction in the ductility due to absorbed hydrogen,” Van ­Benschoten says.

Hydrogen will diffuse into metals, and even after the fuel has left the system, it remains in the metal, and over time, that can cause it to fracture prematurely. 

“We have to design around that, particularly in the fuel-delivery system,” he says. “It also impacts the cylinders and heads and pistons, but the most vulnerable parts are the injectors and fuel rails and lines. You’ll see a lot of stainless steel in those parts.”

Combustible Confusion

You can’t discuss hydrogen as a fuel without thinking of the hydrogen-filled Hindenburg, which burst into flames when the German lighter-than-air passenger-carrying airship ignited while attempting to touch down in Lakehurst, New Jersey, in 1937. The disaster killed 36 people and injured more than 50 others. ­Anecdotally, recent studies have offered convincing evidence that it was the highly flammable doping compound painted on the fabric of the dirigible that was ignited by a spark, not the hydrogen inside. Still, many understandably worry that hydrogen fuel is dangerous because it’s extreme volatility—or so the thought goes. However, gasoline fumes are comparably volatile and are heavier than air, so if a gas tank ruptures and the fuel escapes initial ignition, the fuel is still present, dripping into a boat or floating on the water, at continued risk of ignition. Hydrogen will be evacuated from a compromised fuel tank almost immediately, provided that there is a way for it to get out of the boat, thus minimizing the time in which combustion can occur.

Van Benschoten explained ­Yamaha’s safety enhancements for handling hydrogen on board: “We have ‘sniffers’ in the bilge to detect hydrogen leaks, and if there is one, the tank valves are automatically closed, isolating the tanks, and the fuel lines are purged and piped above the top of the vessel, where it continues to rise and dissipate in the air. The process takes about 15 seconds. We also have vents in the bilge, but their pickups are on the highest points in the bilge—not the lowest, as they would be with gasoline, since ­hydrogen is lighter than air.”

So, place your bets: Which is safest? Gasoline? Hydrogen? Let’s not even talk about the potential hazards of lithium batteries. 

Where to Source Hydrogen

Hydrogen is an element, the first and simplest one on the periodic table, with only one proton and one orbiting electron. It takes two hydrogen molecules bound together to make the hydrogen gas that burns—H₂ is its chemical designation. Hydrogen makes up 75 percent of everything—me, you, the stars, the sun—and ranks as the most abundant element in the universe. To extract hydrogen gas, it must be separated from water (H₂0), natural gas or other fossil ­fuels such as coal. The processes, and the carbon footprints of each, are identified by color. Green hydrogen is separated from water using renewable (solar or wind) electricity to power the electrolysis process and costs the most to produce. It is scarce. Blue H₂ is produced from fossil-fuel-powered electrolysis, but carbon dioxide is captured and repurposed or stored. Gray hydrogen is the most plentiful and is separated from natural gas. Brown or black hydrogen is the easiest, cheapest and dirtiest to make, from coal in a gasification process. The cost to produce hydrogen ranges from $1 per kilogram to $6 per kilogram. Unfortunately, due to distribution costs and poorly developed infrastructure, the price at the pump is an astronomical $36 or more per kilogram. Moreover, all existing and potentially known sources of hydrogen fall short of the current and projected future needs for world transportation. 

Getting Hydrogen in the Tank

Regardless of where hydrogen is sourced, it faces its next big and costly challenge: getting it to ­users. It can be transported by pipeline, and often is for large ­users such as gasoline refineries. 

It can be transported as compressed gas, but that’s far more costly for the amount of fuel carried in a tanker truck as compared with gasoline or diesel. It can be transported liquefied more easily, but its propensity for shrinkage is high, and the energy required to compress it, plus complications and liabilities at the point of ­delivery, adds to that cost. 

Transporting H₂ is an energy-burning process too. The gasoline refining industry limits hydrogen­transport costs frequently by ­locating near hydrogen-producing plants. That eliminates transportation as one of the big energy ­consumers for them. At some point, hydrogen-production plants could be scalable to locate at or near fuel service stations. But at present, door-to-door hydrogen delivery is not on the horizon, and at this writing, there are fewer than 100 hydrogen fuel stations in North America. Most are in California. Broad distribution of it is not practical. Yet.

Read Next: Decarbonization of Boating

If Not Now, When?

So, if Yamaha perfects its hydrogen engine in, say, two years, would we see them on the ­water in growing numbers? ­Probably not. Look back to the early 2000s, when carmakers such as Toyota, Honda, BMW and GM, as well as motorcycle-makers such as Yamaha, had extensive experience developing fuel cells, but the Western world began to push electric propulsion because transportation of carbon-neutral fuel—mainly hydrogen—was a long way from addressing the ubiquitous distribution system enjoyed by gasoline or even the electric power grid. Now, however, as that demand for electricity increases, the need for an alternative green fuel increases, which ultimately might generate a ­deeper dive into hydrogen power.

Should Boaters Care?

If Roush’s estimates are correct, 23 kg of hydrogen can provide energy comparable to 26 gallons of gasoline. At the current street price of $36 per kilogram, a 23-kilogram hydrogen fill-up would cost $828 (at $36 per kilogram) and propel the boat about 50 miles, while a 107-gallon gas fill-up would be $642 at the waterfront and get the boat about 180 miles. And, even when highly compressed, hydrogen takes up almost four times the space of gasoline for the equivalent amount of energy.

As with electric propulsion, hydrogen is not the formula for every challenge. And H₂ is far from viable today. But, as Yamaha, Roush and Regulator see it, it’s one potential heading in the passage to a carbon-neutral world. 

The post Hydrogen Power for Boats appeared first on Boating Mag.

Having the right tool for the job—it’s a metaphor commonly applied to all sorts of self-improvement genres. On a boat, where problems are bound by length, beam and draft, having the right tool to fix the problem is often a literal requirement. 

In my decades as a yacht captain, I’ve come to rely on my tool bag that stores easily, yet it always has what’s needed to make repairs and keep going, instead of limping home.

Keep It Together

Organized tools are easy to find and harder to misplace. My Custom LeatherCraft 1130 tool backpack was discontinued, unfortunately. CLC’s model 1134 is the closest replacement, although it lacks the fold-out tool row. To keep wrenches in line, I write their sizes with a Sharpie on a simple canvas tool roll.

Wrenches & Sockets

Carrying wrenches and sockets in both metric and imperial sizes gets bulky and heavy, and ­adjustable wrenches don’t fit into tight places. Many repairs require two of the same-size wrench, adding heft. Fortunately, several sizes, such as 5/8 inch and 16 mm, are nearly identical. Others are close, but while 18 mm works in place of 11/16, the reverse is not true—11/16 is too tight.

For all you’ll need and nothing more, start with a set of combination wrenches from 7 mm to 19 mm, and then add 1/4, 5/16, 11/32, and 3/8 inch, 10 mm (you’ll want two of those), 7/16, 1/2, 9/16 (buy two), 3/4, 13/16, and 7/8 inch. I add a double-sided 15/16- and 1-inch open-end wrench and two adjustable wrenches—one 10 inch (with an extra-wide 15/16-inch opening) and another 6 inch with a rubber handle for working near battery terminals. A 10-inch aluminum pipe wrench comes in handy. Pawn shops offer single sizes inexpensively, and note that 18 mm and 3/32-inch sizes are often needed yet skipped in consumer-grade sets of these.

Deep-well sockets often fit when standard-depth won’t. In 3/8-inch drive, you’ll want these sizes: 3/8, 10 mm, 7/16, 12 mm, 13 mm, 14 mm, 9/16, 15 mm, 16 mm, 17 mm, 18 mm, 3/4, and 13/16. My “stubby” 3/8-drive ratchet with an articulating “flex-head” fits into tight places, while a 3/8-drive “wobble” extension accommodates difficult angles. I also carry 1/4-inch drive sockets down to 5 mm and 3/16 inch.

Screwdrivers & ­Pliers

Most jobs fall within No. 0, No. 1, No. 2, No. 3 Philips and 1/8-, 3/16-, and 1/4-inch slotted screwdrivers. Tight places often require 1/4-inch or No. 2 Philips shortened “stubby” or right-angle “offset” screwdrivers. Nut drivers in 1/4 inch, 5/16, and 7 mm won’t slip off hose clamps like a slotted screwdriver does, particularly in cramped bilges. A ratcheting screwdriver with hex-shank twist drill bits makes a serviceable hand drill, and it also turns Torx (star-drive) bits in sizes T10, T15, T20, T27 and T30, as well as No. 1 through No. 3 Robertson (square-drive). Ball-end Allen (hex) wrenches, in metric and imperial sizes, angle into tight places ordinary hex wrenches can’t.

Self-adjusting 10-inch Robo Grip pliers are easier to use than similar arc-joint pliers. I also carry small 7-inch and large ­12-inch arc-joint pliers, along with 10-inch slip-joint and 6-inch needle-nose pliers. Vice-Grips in both 10-inch curved-jaw and 6-inch long-nose varieties, along with wire cutters, wire strippers and a crimping tool, round out my set.

Clean, Cut, Scrape or Pick

A stiff putty knife, sharpened with a file, removes old gaskets without damaging parts or knuckles. Slide a “hose hook” (mine is actually a cotter-pin puller) around the inside of a hose to break it free. A hacksaw with extra blades, two stainless-steel wire brushes (shorten long wooden handles to fit into the bag), dental picks, and a snap-blade utility knife round out sharp and pointy necessities.

Read Next: Six Tools for Spring Make-Ready

Miscellaneous

A telescoping mirror and a small, bright flashlight help you see what you’re fixing, and a strong telescoping retrieval magnet recovers dropped tools. A 16-ounce dead-blow hammer loosens what’s stuck or nudges what isn’t, while screw extractors remove stripped screws. A bicycle air pump pressurizes hydraulic steering reservoirs and freshwater expansion tanks. 

A tape measure, 6-inch stainless-steel machinist rule, and plastic calipers help get the right replacement parts. ­Thexton thread pitch gauges include holes that ­identify screw sizes. You’ll also want small tubes of thread-lock (the blue semipermanent ­variety), pipe-thread sealant, ­gasket-maker compound, Teflon lube, and superglue, along with electrical tape and tie wraps.

And the next time you catch a Forbes article or TED Talk about “the right tool for the job,” remember, it isn’t always a ­metaphor.

Wrench-Size Guide

These wrenches pull double duty:

• 7/16 ≥ 11 mm
• 13 mm ≥ 1/2
• 16 mm ≥ 5/8
• 18 mm ≥ 11/16
• 3/4 ≥ 19 mm
• 21 mm ≥ 13/16 (13/16 works on 20 mm too)
• 7/8 ≥ 22
• 15/16 ≥ 23

The post Choosing the Right Tools for Boat Repairs appeared first on Boating Mag.

In the past, Boating has advised boaters to avoid the use of lithium-iron-phosphate (LFP) batteries in marine starting applications. But ReLiOn is rewriting that rule with its RB100-HP, the first and only LFP approved for use as a starting battery for a number of midrange to upper-range Mercury Marine outboards.

The RB100-HP is designed to serve as a dual-purpose (starting and deep-cycle) 12-volt ­drop-in replacement for a Group 31 lead-acid battery. Though the same physical size as a Group 31, it weighs about half as much as its lead-acid equivalent—a benefit common to all LFP batteries. 

However, unlike other LFPs designed only for deep-cycle ­applications, the RB100-HP’s ­battery management system (BMS) is programmed to produce the bursts of high energy needed to start marine engines. It can pump out 800 marine cranking amps for 8 seconds or more. Also unique to this LFP battery is the ability to safely accept the standard 12-volt electrical charge produced by the engine alternator. Other LFPs require specialized charging systems to safely and fully replenish their reserves.

The battery was built to complement the propulsion ­system, not vice versa, says Darren Massey with ReLiOn tech support. “The battery is designed to mimic a lead-acid, but with less maintenance and more reserve power,” Massey explains. The RB100-HP offers 178 percent more reserve capacity than a comparable lead-acid battery, and will accept an alternator charge up to 150 amps.

The RB100-HP is currently ­approved for starting Merc’s 2.1L 75 to 115 hp outboards, 3.0L 150 hp engines, 4.6L V-8 and 3.4L V-6 175 to 300 hp models, 2.6L L-6 200 to 400 hp outboards, 5.7L V-10 350 to 400 hp models, and 7.6L V-12 500 to 600 hp outboards. There are no MerCruiser inboards or sterndrive engines on the ­approved list.

Note that Mercury and ReLiOn are both owned by Brunswick Corp., so it is natural for these brands to work together in developing and certifying this new battery technology. But what if you don’t run one of the approved Mercury outboards? Can boaters use the RB-100-HP with engines from other brands?  

“We always advise boaters to check with their engine and boat manufacturer as to which batteries are approved for use with their particular models,” says Mara Rust, senior category manager for Power Systems at Navico, a ­division of Brunswick.

Whatever engine you run, keep in mind that a BMS in an LFP can shut down the battery if it senses danger such as a surge or voltage spike. This BMS feature is called “protection mode,” and it is one of the reasons for traditionally avoiding LFPs in starting applications. If a battery is shut off while an engine is running, it could fry the rectifiers in the alternator. However, the certified Mercury outboards will continue to run and remain undamaged if the starting battery is shut off for any reason, says Brad Taylor, product integration and technical specialist for Mercury. “The approved Mercury engines will protect themselves from this situation, known as a ‘load dump,’” Taylor explains.

Read Next: Installing a Lithium Battery System

Before you buy, install and use the BR100-HP to start a ­nonapproved engine from any brand, be sure to check with the engine builder to make sure you will not fry the rectifiers in your motor’s alternator if the LFP goes into protection mode.

The RB100-HP has three ­positive terminal posts and three negative terminal posts. “­Having six battery terminals versus two on standard batteries offers ­boaters more flexibility when connecting electronics as well as a motor to the battery,” says Rust, who notes that ABYC ­standards call for limiting the number of ring connectors to four per ­terminal stud. This LFP also boasts an IP67 waterproof rating, which protects the BMS for up to 30 minutes in depths to 1 meter.

Lithiums are known to last much longer than lead-acid batteries, but what kind of service life can you expect from a starting LFP? Since life expectancy will vary with use, Rust points to the 10-year limited warranty, which includes a three-year free replacement or repair period. The BR100-HP carries a manufacturer’s suggested retail price of $999.95. To learn more, visit relionbattery.com.

The post ReLiOn RB100-HP Starting Battery appeared first on Boating Mag.

Preparing a trailer boat for on-road safety while towing to and from a launch ramp calls for securing the transom eyes to the trailer with a pair of properly rated transom ­tie-down straps, in addition to securing the bow eye with the winch strap and safety chain. 

A pair of transom web straps generally connects the transom eyes to corresponding ­tie-down points on the back of the trailer, tightening with a buckle or a ratchet. Traditionally, you store the straps in your tow vehicle after you launch.   

However, one type of transom tie-down strap is engineered to remain attached to the trailer. These are known as retractable transom tie-down straps, and they were first introduced in the 1990s by Boat Buckle. The design concept has since been copied by a number of other companies, including BetterBoat, CargoLoc, Fulton, RhinoUSA, Strappino and others. 

While retractable transom tie-down straps are fairly easy to install, there are important factors to keep in mind when choosing straps and mounting methods to maximize longevity of the system and help ensure that the boat is secured as well as possible to the trailer while towing to keep the hull from sliding about or bouncing on the bunks or rollers. 

For this installation of retractable transom straps, we focus on a 21.5-foot center-console trailer boat that weighs approximately 4,000 pounds without the trailer and is used primarily in salt water. Here’s how the installation went.

Skill Level: 1 of 5

Finish Time: Approx. 2 hours

Tools and Supplies

• BetterBoat retractable ­43-inch stainless-steel ratchet tie-down straps ($73.99 per pair with adapter brackets and hardware; amazon.com)
• Power drill and drill-bit set
• Socket-wrench set
• Box/open-end wrench set
• Tape measure
• Cold-galvanizing spray paint ($21.90 per CRC ­Zinc-It 13-ounce aerosol can; grainger.com)

Select Straps

Retractable transom tie-down strap systems come in a variety of ratings for working loads and breaking strength. Select the highest rating possible for your rig. Better to have straps that are too strong than too weak. Ensure that the straps offer sufficient length to reach the transom eyes from the mounting point. If you boat in salt water, consider stainless-steel models with construction that resists ­corrosion. In our case, we decided on a pair of ­BetterBoat stainless-steel models with 43-by-2-inch web straps with a working load limit of 600 pounds and an assembly breaking strength of 1,800 pounds each.

Tip: Stainless-steel models have lower strength ratings than comparable models featuring carbon-steel construction, but the stainless version will cost more. If you boat in fresh water only, you can choose from the carbon-steel models.

Mounting Method

The compact ratchet system will mount in two ways. The standard method calls for fastening a 10 mm diameter  bolt through a hole in the rear crossmember of the trailer using a matching washer and nut. The second employs an adapter bracket that bolts to the trailer tie-down that is perpendicular on the rear crossmember. Thus, as with the standard mounting method, the strap deploys flat/parallel to the transom surface, eliminating any twist. Using the adapter bracket also eliminates the need to drill a hole in the trailer, which can break the painted or galvanized finish of a steel trailer and lead to corrosion.

Determine Location

The mounting location for the ratchet on the rear crossmember should align as vertically as possible with the transom tie-down eyes on the boat. Avoid angling the strap more than 30 degrees in any direction from up and down. Also avoid locations that draw the strap across any objects such as the aft corner of the hull, a trim tab or a transom-mounted transducer. On boats with integral outboard brackets or extended aft platforms, deploying the strap across the bottom of the transom might prove unavoidable. If this is necessary, consider placing a towel under the strap before tightening it to forestall wear on the boat finish.

Tip: In deciding a mounting location, be sure there’s enough swing room to work the ratch handle back and forth before you finalize your decision. There might be, for instance, a trailer taillight or trim tab that interferes with the handle or becomes a finger pinch point when tensioning the ratchet. 

Mount the Ratchets

If you choose the standard installation method, drill mounting holes in the desired locations, then give the raw metal a couple of coats of rust-fighting cold-galvanizing spray paint. Next, bolt the ratchets securely to the rear crossmember using the supplied hardware. If using an adapter bracket, decide on the best angle for the adapter depending on if the tie-down is in a vertical or horizontal orientation. Use the angle that orients the back of the ratchet mechanism parallel to the transom, allowing the strap to deploy parallel to the transom as well. Bolt the ratchets securely to the adapters using the supplied hardware.

Read Next: 6 Best Boat Trailer Light Kit Options

Deploy and Retract

To deploy and attach the BetterBoat straps, press the button in the middle of the ratchet handle to release the tension, then pull out the strap and attach the vinyl-coated strap hook to the transom eye. Press the button on the ratchet handle and move the handle up, then release the button and work the handle back and forth to tighten the strap. To remove the strap from the boat, press the button in the handle to release the tension on the strap, then remove the hook from the transom tie-down eye, allowing the spring-loaded ratchet to ­automatically ­retract the strap into the mechanism like a venetian blind.

Tip: After the first trip with the new retractable tie-down straps, recheck the tightness of the mounting hardware and retighten if necessary.

The post Installing Retractable Transom Straps appeared first on Boating Mag.

The marine-power landscape is changing quickly, thanks mainly to advancements in motors—especially electric motors, batteries, operating software and charging equipment.

Electric marine propulsion is not new, having been pioneered more than 150 years ago by a Russian inventor, but it’s most prevalent use has been in the form of the electric trolling motor, first introduced in 1934 by Minn Kota for positioning a fishing boat for an accurate cast to cover or trolling along a weed line or drop-off that might hold fish. Today, motors are more powerful, batteries carry more power in lighter lithium packages, and many hull styles of electric-powered boats are available to accommodate the way most boaters play on the water.

This evolving technology raises new questions that boaters must answer when trying to make a power selection. Just as all horses aren’t alike, all horsepower stickers on electric motors aren’t alike. But there is a definite origin for what a horsepower is, and how it is calculated.

What Is Horsepower?

Ironically, the term and calculation for “horsepower” was defined and coined by 1700s inventor James Watt. To give his steam engines credibility and relevancy, he compared their capabilities to that of a horse.

Watt determined one horse could lift 33,000 pounds 1 foot in 1 minute; that 33,000 foot-pounds of work per minute became the standard measurement for machine power. It is the term and formula we still use today.

Watt Is That?

Watt’s success ensured the eponymous naming of another measure of power: The watt is a measure of work done over time. It is equal to one metric joule per second, which is the equivalent of .737 ft-lb per second. A watt is the power it takes to lift 100 grams or 3.6 ounces—say, an average apple—1 meter in 1 second.

Watts to Horsepower

An electric motor’s power capacity is defined in watts. Mathematically, 1 kW (1,000 watts) equals 1.34 horsepower. Some marine-propulsion ­engineers simply use that conversion formula to define the horsepower of their motor. And some round up that figure, taking a motor’s calculated horsepower of 47 to, say, 60 hp using a vague reference to “equivalent power” or “comparable power.” To be sure, electric motors have far more torque than internal combustion engines, allowing the motor to turn a larger prop, giving a fast hole-shot characteristic of a larger motor, as well as higher speeds at a similar rpm. The same can be said of diesel engines. The increased torque of a diesel power plant, versus a gas mill, is a known characteristic of diesel engines. This characteristic can be factored in when comparing engines because both express power using the same measurement: horsepower. It’s when different ways of expressing power–such as the way some electric engine manufacturers are doing it–that confusion creeps in. If there is no standard starting point for stating power output, then no standard offsets can be applied to fairly compare one engine or motor versus another. Making such fair comparisons is important when deciding how to power a new boat one is buying and when re-powering a boat one already owns.

Power from all engines and motors is also diminished when vertical rotation is converted to horizontal rotation through a gear case. With the latter design, so much power is lost through gear reduction that using the 1 kW equals 1.34 horsepower formula measured at the ­motor armature, or the IC powerhead, instead of the prop shaft, is far from accurate. (This is why internal-combustion outboards and sterndrives are rated at the prop and inboards are rated at the powerhead.) In The Nature of Boats, author Dave Gerr states that there is a 4 to 6 ­percent loss of power in gear-case bearings and ­direction change. Plus, water pickups and pumps in the lower unit have to carry cooling water to the motor, further draining power to the prop. To attain the full advantage of an electric motor’s ponies, the prop has to be directly connected to the motor’s armature, and some ­motors are not designed to do that ­efficiently.

The Way

In boating, there is only one thing that matters in horsepower—the amount of power delivered by the prop to move the boat through water. There is only one way to measure that accurately—with the prop shaft connected to a dynamometer that captures foot-pounds of energy through the power range. “Equivalent horsepower,” on the other hand, is a fabricated term that isn’t a true measurement at all. It’s usually marketing hype, or at best, the platform engineers’  estimate of how one electric motor compares to a comparable internal-combustion engine. The standard for internal-combustion outboard and sterndrive horsepower ratings is to measure that power at the prop shaft. The same must go for electric outboard motors.

Read Next: The Perks of Portable Electric Outboards

Shopping for Answers

When shopping for electric propulsion, the first mystery to unravel is finding out the true horsepower at the prop shaft. Questions of acceleration, top speed, and range are variables that are determined by motor design and its integration into different hull styles, weights, loads, and battery capacity. Motor designs bring vastly differing ­advantages and liabilities too.

The post Decoding the Horsepower Ratings of Electric Motors appeared first on Boating Mag.

Many boaters live in the age of outboards. These engines are often considered the only choice for center-console saltwater fishing boats. Yet Volvo Penta is bent on opening boaters’ eyes to the advantages of alternative marine power for saltwater fishing, namely Volvo Penta’s diesel inboards coupled with Aquamatic Duoprop sterndrives.

To prove the point, Volvo Penta invited me to spend a few days fishing with them in the waters of Nantucket Sound, south of Chatham, Massachusetts, targeting bluefish, striped bass and false ­albacore.

We fished aboard two center-consoles, including a Solace 415CS powered by twin Volvo Penta diesels. The second center-console was a Southport 30 FE, and that was the boat which really captured my attention and admiration. 

The Southport featured a single-engine configuration. A 440 hp Volvo Penta D6 diesel was mounted amidships ­under the seat console and connected to an Aquamatic DPI sterndrive with a ­jackshaft. This completely freed up the aft cockpit to ­create a ­wide-open fishing area, with no ­outboards to ­obstruct lines. A big swim platform let us walk aft through a transom door to follow hooked fish across the stern. 

The Volvo Penta D6 is a ­super-sophisticated turbo- and super-charged common-rail inline-six cylinder engine with twin overhead cams and 5.5 liters of displacement. If the 440 hp sounds a bit light for the 11,864-pound Southport, remember that a diesel generates far more torque than an equivalent-horsepower gas outboard, and so the diesel can swing a bigger propeller—in this case, an H5 stainless-steel Duoprop set—resulting in ­solid performance numbers.

Running to and from the legendary shallow bars and roiling rips of Nantucket Sound confirmed this axiom. The Volvo diesel propelled the 30 FE to 20 mph in 4.8 seconds and 30 mph in 8.1 seconds, and it achieved a top speed of 43.1 mph at 3,800 rpm. The boat was quiet and smooth underway, with none of the loud rattle or smelly exhaust traditionally associated with diesel engines.

That strong acceleration came in handy when one of Nantucket’s infamous rogue waves reared up suddenly on our port beam. Volvo’s Jens Bering was at the wheel, and immediately turned into the wave and hammered the electronic throttle to climb the face of the 12-foot roller. Without the diesel torque and superb control offered by the Duoprop drive, not to ­mention Bering’s quick ­response, the episode may have ended ­quite differently.

Speaking of control, I was impressed with the Volvo Penta joystick system for the single diesel sterndrive. The 30 FE was the first in the US to offer this system. Steering, gear control, bow thruster and throttle are controlled ­easily with just one hand. To engage the system, you press the Docking button on the base of the joystick control. The system can also hold the boat’s speed and heading at the push of a button. 

The joystick was mounted in the armrest of the helm seat of the 30 FE, which made using it ultra-easy, intuitive and comfortable as we maneuvered to troll lures around Nantucket’s ­treacherous rips. The Aquamatic hydraulic ­transmission allows for smooth, quiet shifting and pleasantly good ­low-speed trolling functionality. Some diesels have a ­tendency to troll too fast. Not so with this system. 

I marveled over the ­optimal fuel efficiency: 2.5 mpg at 2,800 rpm and 27.9 mph, resulting in a cruising range of 359 miles based on 90 percent of its smaller 160-gallon diesel fuel tank. For comparison’s sake, an earlier test of a twin 300 hp Mercury outboard version of this boat achieved optimal efficiency of 1.6 mpg at 3,500 rpm and 26.7 mph, resulting in a cruising range of 334 miles based on 90 ­percent of its larger 232-gallon ­gasoline fuel tank. 

Read Next: Volvo Penta’s Diesel Engines and Drives

The biggest issue that ­saltwater boaters have with sterndrives is the inability to tilt the drive out of the water, as it done with outboards, while docked between trips. To prevent sterndrive corrosion in ­areas such as New England, Volvo Penta’s Arjen ­Steegstra points out a special paint process and ­Active Corrosion ­Protection system engineered for ­Aquamatic sterndrives. 

“The ACP system has been used on our IPS boats for more than 12 years,” Steegstra says. “It protects the drive from galvanic corrosion without sacrificial anodes, and offers a lot of peace of mind for our customers who boat in both ­brackish and salt water.” Of course, those who use a ­high-and-dry service, or own a boat lift, needn’t concern themselves.

In an age when filling up a boat can max out a credit card, it’s nice to know that the Volvo Penta D6 diesel DPI power ­system can save you money at the fuel dock, as well as open up the aft cockpit for better fishing access, and do it all without sacrificing ­performance or easy handling.

The post Volvo Penta D6 Diesel DPI appeared first on Boating Mag.

A boat trailer includes a winch that mounts on top of or below the bow stand to wind the boat onto the trailer and help secure the bow eye while towing. When the time comes to replace this essential piece of towing equipment, your buying decision will hinge on a number of factors and preferences, many of which I’ve detailed for you here.

Manual vs. Power Winches

Trailer winches come in basic types: manual versions and electric models. Manual winches are relatively inexpensive and simple to install, but they require human muscle and often the need to wade into the water to crank the handle when loading the boat. A power winch uses 12-volt DC electrical power from the tow vehicle to wind the boat onto the trailer. Not only does it save labor, but it also can keep you dry because some models feature wireless remotes, allowing you to ­operate the power winch from a dock or dry pavement. Power winches are more complicated to install and require more maintenance inherent with keeping the electrical system operating properly in a wet environment. For more on choices in power winches, visit boatingmag.com/10-things-to-look-for-before-you-buy-­electric-boat-trailer-winch.

Capacity Rating

Whether you choose a manual or power winch, it’s critical to select a model with the proper rating to wind your boat onto the trailer. A good rule of thumb is to choose a winch with the same rating as the one that was on the trailer when it was new. For example, my tandem-­axle trailer, which carries my ­21-foot boat, has a manual winch rated for 2,000 pounds. That is the minimum rating I would consider in replacing it. But if you have made changes to your boat that have added weight—a larger fuel tank, for example—think about upgrading to a model with a higher rating. Power winches general have higher capacity ratings, starting at about 7,500 pounds and ranging upward to 11,500 pounds.

Two Speeds or One

Some manual winches such as the Fulton XLT two-speed trailer winches let you flip a lever to select a higher speed to gather up slack quickly. You can also shift down to a lower speed to engage a gear ratio that makes it a bit easier to wind a boat onto the trailer than when using the higher speed. Single-speed models compromise with one medium-gear ratio for both gathering slack and pulling a boat onto a trailer. 

Handle Length

An extended handle on a manual model such as the Fulton single-speed long-handle trailer winch has largely the same effect as a ­­lower-gear ratio in multiplying the power when winding on a trailer. Some models offer adjustable handles. The Fulton XLT has four different handle-length settings to suit your need for winding leverage and to accommodate any clearance ­issues you might have while ­turning the handle. 

Read Next: Eight Types of Boat Trailer Accessories

Strap vs. Rope

Trailer winches are available with either web straps (made of nylon or polyester) or rope (made of nylon, synthetic material or steel wire, aka cable) with a hook that snaps to the boat’s bow eye. The strength ratings of these are commensurate with the overall rating of the winch you choose. The most popular choice today for manual winches is a web strap, while cable is most prevalent for power winches. If you choose a web strap, make sure it lays flat on the winch spool and does not get caught in the gear teeth and become torn as you crank in the boat. With any kind of rope, make sure it spools on evenly as you wind and does not pile up, create a high spot, and possibly impair your ability to ­retrieve your boat.

Corrosion Resistance

Finishes for manual trailer winches include painted steel and plated steel. There are also models featuring stainless-steel construction. For freshwater boating, a painted-­steel winch will provide many years of service. In salt water, opt for a plated-steel winch such as a Dutton-Lainson with the TuffPlate finish. Most power winches are built to be corrosion-resistant for use in either fresh or salt water.

The post How to Choose a Trailer Winch appeared first on Boating Mag.

Because many boats spend most of their lives on their trailers, it’s important for safety reasons and for the life of the hull that the trailer matches the boat. But how can a boat owner ensure that the trailer they buy fits right?

Here are some of the ­elements you should look for in a properly fitting boat trailer and what goes into making that fit right. While you can do this task yourself, if you are not comfortable, a quality trailer dealer can do this job for you.

Whether buying used or new, consider the ­trailer and how much you may have to spend to make it right or replace it. ­Research boat weights, engine weights and drive weights. Determine the fuel capacity, multiplying each gallon of fuel by 7 pounds, and use this full-tank weight in your calculations. Apply “educated guesstimation” for the weights of hardtops, anchor gear, safety equipment, spares, and your normal complement of personal supplies, from fishing tackle to refreshments. Make sure the ­trailer is rated to handle for the sum of the above weights.

The Swap

Once you have purchased a new trailer, the question arises as to how to get the boat fitted to it. Trailers must be adjusted to fit individual boats. Ideally, your dealer will do this for you. Lacking that, you can do it yourself with some buddy help and proper planning. You’ll need wrenches and sockets that fit the nuts and bolts on the trailer. (Hint: A 1/2-inch-drive electric-impact wrench makes short work of adjustments.) You’ll need a hammer or two to tap the bunks and supports one way or another. A couple of Sharpie markers and tape measures will help you quickly measure and mark where the bunks and supports need to move.

Measure and estimate the desired positions of the bunks before you start. As an example, I recently adjusted a trailer where it was obvious that the bunks needed to move outward on the frame by 4½ inches from where the factory set them, and the front bunks needed to be moved up higher to contact the hull. We marked all of this on the frame, and made these preliminary adjustments before leaving for the launch ramp.

Next, pick a midweek day, so the ramp won’t be crowded. You’ll need two vehicles: one to tow the boat on its old trailer and the other to tow the new trailer. Make sure both vehicles are capable of towing. 

After loading the boat onto the new trailer, move to the parking area and note how accurate your initial measurements and adjustments were; you’ll likely have to fine-tune to get the fit right. The bunks, or rollers, should be positioned just inside or outside the boat’s ­lifting strakes (for best support and easiest loading at the ramp). The bunks or ­rollers should fully ­support the hull from bow to stern—with no daylight visible between the bunks and the hull bottom.

For any trailer, ideally, make sure that the boat transom is flush with the last rollers or aft end of the bunks. While the rollers can be moved—and may have to be—moving the winch stand forward or aft will help determine the amount of transom ­overhang, if any, on the ­trailer. Additionally, set the bow stop/bow roller so that it rests just above the boat’s bow eye. Make sure the strap or cable pulls straight onto the winch.

Read Next: Installing a Trailer-Tire Monitoring System

You may have to adjust the axles for tongue weight. Proper tongue weight ­decreases the chances of the trailer either swaying or pushing the tow vehicle. Determine ideal tongue weight by first adding the weight of the trailer itself to the weight of the loaded boat you calculated ­earlier. Tongue weight should be between 7 and 10 ­percent of that weight with a dead-weight hitch (versus a load-distributing hitch).

By using a scale at the coupler, you can observe the tongue weight. If the measured weight is over the 10 percent range, move the axle(s) forward by 1 inch for every 10 to 12 pounds you need to subtract. If the tongue weight is light, move the axle back by 1 inch for every 10 to 12 pounds you need to add. With the boat relaunched, axles can be moved by loosening the U-bolts that secure them to the frame. It’s very important to make sure the wheels remain even on each side of the trailer when you move an axle. Measure and mark the distance on each side of the trailer to make sure.

The post Is Your Trailer Right for Your Boat? appeared first on Boating Mag.

It’s midsummer. Time for numerous maintenance tasks that will help ensure continued happy boating. Neglecting some of these might ruin your next trip. Neglecting others might cost you more dearly. You won’t necessarily need to haul the boat to perform these tasks, but a mask and snorkel can prove helpful if the boat’s kept in the water.

Of course, the first thing to check—and you should be checking this regularly—are the fluid levels. Start with engine oil, pulling the dipstick while the engine is cold and the boat is floating or level on its trailer or lift.

Next, check the gear-case lubricant. This would have been topped off at the start of the season, but sometimes air bubbles can ­prevent the oil from finding its proper level. Find the reservoir in your engine compartment and add the specified gear lube per your owner’s manual to the “full” mark. It’s normal to need to top off gear lube once or twice a season.

Related to gear-case oil levels, check your propeller shaft for fishing line. Look between the prop and the gear case for strands of line. If you haven’t knowingly run over fishing line, this might be sufficient. If you have run over fishing line, or just want to be ­completely sure, remove the prop and look. Fishing line can cut the seals, destroying your drive by allowing lubricant out and water in. Shaft seals with line cutters are standard on many sterndrive models.

Gear-case oil-level redux: If you do find fishing line around your prop shaft, haul the boat, drain the drive lube, and look for water. Let the drained lube rest in a clear glass jar, and any water will separate like salad dressing. Also, ­water-contaminated oil will come out looking whitish and frothy, like light coffee. Finding water, I suggest having the drive pressure-­tested. Then, change the seals and refill the lube ­before going back in.

Coolant level should be checked on freshwater-­cooled engines. With the engine cold, remove the pressure cap on the heat exchanger. The coolant level should be at the bottom of the fill neck. Replace the cap, and make sure it seats properly. Run the engine up to operating temperature, and check the level on the side of the recovery bottle. Add the specified coolant to the recovery bottle only when the engine is at operating temperature.

Read Next: Tips for Winterizing Your Sterndrive

Commonly called zincs, sacrificial anodes are also made from aluminum and magnesium. In any case, midseason is a good time to check the condition of these anodes, which sacrifice themselves to corrosion before the metal of the sterndrive gets eaten. Both drive and engine have anodes. Your engine’s  owner’s manual will show you the locations of the anodes. Adhere to the published replacement schedule. As a rule of thumb, replace an anode when it has lost half its mass.

Inspect your fuel filter by loosening the drain screw and draining fuel into a glass jar. Let the fuel settle. If there is water in the fuel, indicated by separation in the jar, replace the filter. Of course, also replace the filter if the specified hours have elapsed. Even for a scheduled change, dump the filter contents into a jar and look for excess water.

You’ll also want to look for physical damage to the drive and prop, be sure to lubricate all grease points per the owner’s manual, and check the belt ­tension. Finally, modern sterndrives have excellent self-protection systems and sensors built in. If you get an alert on the helm display, address it immediately.

The post Midseason Sterndrive Maintenance appeared first on Boating Mag.