The definition of seamanship is apparently a matter of contention among some boaters, including other marine journalists not working for this publication. I will settle the matter right now: To practice seamanship means, in part, to practice good preparation. Seamanship is not limited to acts of high adventure on stormy seas.

Now that that’s resolved, let’s examine why boaters who winterize—or who store their boats otherwise—for months at a time should develop a routine for that first run of the season.

First, I never met a boat that wasn’t a work in progress. There’s always one or more tasks that need to be done or that are not 100 percent completed and one or more items that have failed or are about to fail. It’s the nature of the beast. Break out those Benjamins. Some of these tasks might be aesthetic and some might be critical. Along that spectrum, first-run boaters should make a checklist prioritizing critical items and working toward aesthetic.

Here’s my main point: Things that were in process or top of mind before you laid up the boat have had time to sink into the mire of disuse and distraction. Other things take up space in our brains. The holidays, house projects that got delayed while you were boating, plus the simple passage of time can all push boating tasks and repairs beyond recollection. So, make a list.

Start with safety: Check your flares for sufficient number and type as well as for expiration dates. Check your life jackets by pulling on the straps and ­tugging at the buckles, rearming the ­inflation mechanism, and noting whether any of your regular crew have grown over the winter and so now need a new size. Does the horn work? Do the nav lights work? Does your EPIRB, PLB or other beacon need a battery? Perform a self-test on these per the manufacturer’s procedure.

Other accessories that I’d give ­priority to include the VHF ­radio. Make sure it works by ­either requesting a radio check, radio-checking yourself with a handheld VHF, or by installing an inline wattmeter on the antenna cable (these come ready to go for easy installation).

Checking the bilge pump probably works as well in the safety paragraph, but I needed a good transition. Reach into the bilge and raise the pump’s float switch, and also check for manual operation by flipping the switch at the helm. What about livewell and washdown pumps? Better to find out before you launch, so check ’em out now.

Read Next: Six Tools for Spring Make-Ready

Let’s not forget propulsion. More than one boater shows up for spring launch with an ­engine that won’t start. Or won’t shift. Or otherwise doesn’t run right. ­Connect a hose, and fire off the engines in the yard or on the trailer. Shift gears. Check the alternator output, oil pressure and fluid levels before you head out for your first run.

This list is not intended to be complete for every boat. Nor is it an indictment of every boater. Instead, I’m hoping to provide you with a head start. I want to prompt you to think about your first run before you make it. Much of good seamanship is mindset and routine.

And don’t forget your drain plug. 

The post The Importance of a Spring Launch Checklist appeared first on Boating Mag.

Reflect: EchoMaster Radar Reflector

Saving Grace: Small boats don’t always show up on the radar screens of larger vessels, which could make you invisible to traffic. Adding a radar reflector such as an EchoMaster from Davis Instruments can solve the problem. The standard EchoMaster, when assembled, ­creates a 12-square-meter cross section visible in the standard 9-9.6 GHz X radar band, making your boat visible to others with radar.

The Snag: Must be installed at the highest point on your boat, so small vessels lacking towers or T-tops might not get the full benefit. You could still ­disappear in another boat’s “main bang.”

Price: $107.99; westmarine.com

Signal: Orion Signaling Mirror

Saving Grace: A signaling mirror fits in your pocket and, in dire situations when all else fails, can be used to reflect the sun’s rays to catch the eye of another passing vessel and alert them that you need help. It doesn’t cost much, doesn’t need batteries, and can catch someone else’s attention if you need it. It comes with a lanyard, so you can attach it to your person should you be in the water. The 3-by-4-inch acrylic mirror does not corrode and features rounded corners so that it won’t scrape or snag.

The Snag: Requires a light source to reflect and, although it could be visible for up to 10 miles, is more for close-range signaling.

Price: $15.99; westmarine.com

Read Next: Best Marine Flare Guns & Visual Distress Signals

Alert: Jet Logic Safety Whistle

Saving Grace: This high-pitched whistle comes with a floating lanyard that clips to your belt or life vest. It’s another inexpensive item that’s easy to carry if you need it. If you’re stuck adrift or taking on water and can’t raise help on your VHF, sometimes a shrill noise can alert a passing vessel that you need help. Again, it doesn’t need batteries or maintenance; you just pull it out and blow. Because it’s made out of plastic, you don’t have to worry about rust or corrosion.

The Snag: Might be hard to hear over ambient wind and engine noise, and works only if other vessels are in close proximity to yours.

Price: $7.99; westmarine.com

The post Three Top Manual Signaling Devices appeared first on Boating Mag.

The new Mercury Marine ­joystick control for a single outboard puts throttle, shifting and steering control in the palm of your hand. Many captains will find that the joystick makes it easier to handle a single-engine boat in tight quarters. Full-lock steering response is realized with a quick turn of the joystick rather than with multiple turns of the wheel, and shifting from forward to reverse is just as quick. The joystick ­simplifies boathandling, matching the functionality of the Yamaha Helm Master EX single-engine system introduced in 2021.

We tested the single-engine joystick aboard a Highfield Sport 700 RIB powered by a ­Mercury Verado 250 outboard. A lightweight RIB is easily pushed around by wind and current, and thus is a perfect application for the joystick. The same could be said for a pontoon. Tilt the knob forward or back for forward or reverse thrust, and twist it left or right to steer the outboard. The bow of the vessel always follows the direction of the joystick rotation, whether forward or reverse thrust is selected. The joystick is proportional, which means that the farther from the center the joystick is moved, the more thrust is applied. The system is programmed to limit thrust through the joystick, which makes it less likely you’ll dial up too much thrust—we’ve all seen that ­happen around the dock.

Learning to use this control takes some practice. Experienced captains will instinctively reach for the wheel. But once you develop new muscle memory, control becomes instinctive. This joystick also offers some ­autopilot functions if the boat is rigged with a compatible MFD and a Mercury GPS/IMU. The single-engine joystick is compatible only with Mercury Verado and Sea Pro V-8, V-10 and V-12 engine models equipped with Mercury electric power steering. It can be retrofit, but our Merc rep suggests that the ideal time for installation is during a repower, when all the required components can be ordered together. Vessels equipped with electric steering can add the single-engine joystick for about $2,500, and autopilot for an ­additional $3,000. Note that these features are not mutually exclusive. If the vessel has electric steering, AutoPilot can be installed without the joystick, and vice versa.

Read Next: Mercury Joystick Piloting for Pontoons

SmartCraft OS Joystick Update Available

Mercury Marine recently released a SmartCraft software update that gives multiengine joystick piloting new capabilities. Closed-loop velocity control will automatically adjust throttle and steering if wind or current causes the boat to drift off course during joystick ­maneuvers, reducing unwanted fore-aft drifting by up to 74 percent. Speed-based joystick ­operation replaces the previous rpm-based system. The joystick input translates to ­actual speed over ground, and if the boat encounters a force such as a headwind or tailwind, the system will automatically increase or decrease throttle to maintain the captain’s desired speed. For V-12 engines, the software update enables slip control, which allows the transmission to slip up to 90 percent to reduce propeller rpm and more accurately control the boat’s movements. The software update is available for boats that currently have multiengine joystick piloting and next-gen digital throttle and shift controls. See a Mercury dealer for details.

The post Mercury Joystick Steering for Single-Engine Vessels appeared first on Boating Mag.

The young man attending the gas dock in Frankfort, Michigan, seemed befuddled.

“So you just crossed Lake Michigan on a pontoon boat,” he said. “Why would you do that?”

I thought about this for a ­moment and just shrugged. “I don’t know. I guess because it’s a nice day.”

The kid slipped the nozzle into our fuel fill and switched on the pump. He stood back and looked us over some more: three guys on the far side of middle age and a 22-foot pontoon.

“So now what are you going to do?” he asked.

“I don’t know,” I replied. “I guess gas up and go back to ­Wisconsin. It’s still a nice day.”

This little adventure was a goofy idea. Quite literally. The instigator was our friend Malcolm “Goofy” Sohm, a pontoonist of the highest order, who invited us to join him on this over-and-back. The voyage was a reprise of the same crossing Goofy made in 1999. Twenty-five years ago, Sohm crossed the pond as a ­publicity stunt to promote his recently patented invention, the T.A.P. Fin System, the first lifting device devised to improve pontoon performance. That trip made for a great story but not much publicity. This time, Sohm made sure to invite a couple of magazine writers to share the tale.

The Accidental Pontoonist

The story of Goofy Sohm and the T.A.P. Fin has appeared on these pages in the past, in abbreviated fashion. This time I’ll include all the details and tell a tale of one man’s inquisitive mind and unrelenting determination in pursuit of a goal that has, so far, been elusive.

Sohm, who is about to turn 70 years old, grew up in ­Oshkosh, Wisconsin, where his father owned a filling station and was an avid boater.

“My early childhood was like a chapter out of Huck Finn,” Sohm says. “We had a paddle-wheel houseboat. It was 42 feet long and 16 feet wide, with a wood hull we had to caulk up each spring. We used that boat to roam all over the Winnebago basin. It would take us two days to run 20 miles from Oshkosh up the Fox River to Eureka. But what a grand time! Fishing and swimming and ­sleeping on the roof with the stars overhead.”

Sohm earned his nickname in high school. On a dare, he rode his minibike one lap around the main hallway of Oshkosh West High School but crashed on the slick terrazzo right in front of the principal’s office. “What a goofy thing to do!” Mr. Rahn said as Sohm lay on the floor. There you go. Sohm embraced his moniker, which ­perfectly fits his personality.

Fast-forward a few decades. Sohm lost his fiberglass speedboat in a divorce. After he later married Terry Reiter, in 1989, the couple lived south of Oshkosh, across the road from Lake Winnebago, where Goofy had a one-man auto-body repair business. “After the divorce, all I could afford was a 21-foot Crest pontoon with a 25-horse Evinrude,” Sohm said. “I could not keep up with my buddies. I kept putting a bigger outboard on that pontoon, but my best friend had a 34 Scarab. When Lake Winnebago got rough, I was miserable.”

Sohm started wondering if there was a better way to improve the performance of his pontoon. One day, he had Terry drive while he lay on the forward deck, his head hanging over so that he could look ­below the boat.

“All this water was just flying up off the tubes and hitting the underside of the deck,” Sohm said, “and I thought, What a waste of energy. What if I could redirect that force? This was also after a pontoon with a 15 hp motor got caught in a thunderstorm on Lake Winnebago, and six people drowned. They couldn’t get off the lake fast enough when the storm popped up.”

Tapping Into Performance

In a move that now seems prescient, Sohm in 1996 commissioned the construction of a custom pontoon. Twenty-six feet long and supported by a pair of 26-inch-diameter tubes, the boat was bigger than any production pontoon on the market at the time. The tubes were formed in two pieces by a local sheet-metal shop and welded together lengthwise. That seam also incorporated wide inner and outer flanges.

“It seemed obvious that I could use fins to capture the force of the water coming off the tubes,” Sohm said. “The tubes came with the strip of aluminum sticking straight out on both sides, and I welded two Vise-Grips together so that I could bend 6 inches at a time and just work my way down the tube. I started with a 45-degree lip, and then tried 90 degrees, and then more than 90 degrees. The 90-degree bend worked the best. I had no education and no money, but I had an invention.”

Sohm finished the deck ­himself using off-the-shelf pontoon furniture bolted onto a 200 hp Mercury outboard, and in 1998, he took his ­prototype to the Pontoon and Deck Boat magazine shootout on Lake Dora, Florida.

“My goal was to demonstrate the concept and sell it to Smoker or Bennington,” Sohms said. “But the performance was disappointing. The boat ran only 31 mph. So I called my buddy John Litjens, who ran the Mercury Lake X test facility at the time, and he told me to bring the boat over.”

Litjens set up Sohm with a new four-blade prop that brought the boat to life. It now accelerated briskly and ran 37 mph—Goofy got ­dialed in at Lake X.

Sohm returned to the pontoon shootout in 1999 with a new boat fitted with a clear plastic window in the deck so that passengers could see his invention, now called T.A.P. Fin System by Conrad Marine Inc., at work with the boat underway. Sohm also invested $150,000 to get the invention patented. A boat equipped with T.A.P. fins rode higher in the water and offered a smoother ride, improved economy, and higher top speed. The fins also helped the boat carve through turns rather than skidding in typical pontoon fashion. According to Sohm, boatbuilder Godfrey thought his was a brilliant solution. So they copied it. Sohm sued, and in a ­settlement reached in 2003, Godfrey agreed to pay a ­royalty for each set of T.A.P.-like fins it ­installed. ­After Godfrey became part of ­Nautic Global Group in 2005, that deal ended. Pontoon manufacturers began placing lifting strakes on the bottom of pontoon tubes, and then on the sides. Sohm says that these devices improve performance, but the patented feature of the T.A.P. system is the 90-degree bend, which he says simply ­performs better than any other solution.

Anxious to turn his invention into a profitable business, Sohm began selling T.A.P. fins in kit form, to be welded to a customer’s boat. He continued to pitch his invention to pontoon builders, hoping to either license or sell the patent outright. Time after time, Sohm says he ran into a “not invented here” attitude.

“The engineers at these ­companies don’t want to admit that a device created by a guy from ­Oshkosh named Goofy, with no ­degree, works better than what they’ve got,” Sohm said. “Or they just don’t see the value. What they have is good enough.”

Sohm decided that he needed some publicity to help promote his business, and one evening came up with the beer-fueled notion of crossing Lake Michigan, the biggest handy body of water.

“Sturgeon Bay to Frankfort is 87 miles, the shortest distance across the lake,” Sohm said. “My big boat had a 200 Mercury and a 24-gallon fuel tank. We added another 32-gallon tank on the deck, but I still had to carry 36 more gallons in plastic jugs. That motor was a guzzler.”

His boat had no GPS and not even a compass, so he enlisted his speedboat buddy Terry Kaiser to lead the way in a 34 Formula.

“Those guys were out all night and sick over the rail, and got us off course,” Sohm said. “We missed Frankfort by 20 miles, and I almost ran out of gas, but we made it over and back. I took a few waves over the bow, so it was just a little sketchy.”

Sohm says that at the time, the media wouldn’t write about his ­accomplishment because it seemed so risky, they feared being held ­liable if readers attempted to repeat the feat and died trying. So much for publicity.

Crossing the Lake

Flash-forward 25 years, and Sohm is still pitching his patent and still selling his kits at boat shows—thousands of pontoons are running with owner-installed T.A.P. fins. He and Terry moved to North Carolina in 2003 to be closer to her family, and he works as a gofer at Long Island Marina in ­Catawba, North Carolina. Summer 2024 saw the confluence of the Oshkosh ToonFest poker run, the 50th anniversary reunion of the Oshkosh West class of 1974, and the 25th anniversary of the original pontoon crossing. What a weekend. Sohm insisted that Pontoon and Deck Boat editor Brady Kay and I join him on the anniversary crossing. Sohm towed up from North Carolina his personal 22-foot Bentley triple-tube pontoon, powered by a fuel-sipping Mercury FourStroke 250 and equipped with a compass and a GPS. For a chase/photo boat, I enlisted ace technician Dan ­Jansen to join us in Cheap and Easy, his 1983 Cruisers 220 Baron. We equipped ourselves with water, some snacks, handheld VHF radios, a spare prop, fuel filters and some tools.

The weather on July 15, our planned day of crossing, looked grim—thunderstorms and big seas—but a massive high-pressure dome was cruising in from Canada and would give us promising conditions the next day. We motored out of the Sturgeon Bay ship canal on July 16 under clear skies. Once we were a few miles out, we settled in, cruising at 20 mph. Seas were 3 to 4 feet and confused, with a chop on the top and wind from the northeast. The farther east we went, the rougher it got; we were catching the back side of the previous day’s weather. As high pressure approached, the wind shifted to the north, so we were rolling in a beam sea, with the tops of waves appearing higher than the pontoon rails. With triple-tube buoyancy and the T.A.P. fins, we stayed on top of the water, and while we smacked down hard a few times, we stayed dry and in control. For the last 20 miles, we reduced our speed to about 15 mph, but we were still outpacing the Cruisers. When I looked back, I could see mostly the bottom of the runabout as it bucked through the waves. Dan brought two curious buddies along; they and photographer Tom King took a beating.

The shoreline bluffs and Frankfort light appeared on the ­horizon about four hours after our ­departure, and we motored past the breakwater and into Betsie Lake. At the gas dock, we pumped 25 gallons into the pontoon and 31 into the Cruisers. The pontoon got about 3.5 mpg. Consider that in 1999 it took almost 90 gallons to make the same distance plus 20 off-course miles. Our fuel economy was about three times better in 2024. And the ride was much less dramatic, thanks mostly to that third tube under the boat. For an adventure ride like this one, that third tube is a game-changer and, along with the advent of force-­capturing devices like T.A.P. fins, might be the most significant ­advance in pontoon evolution over the past 25 years.

Our original plan was to grab some brunch after we arrived on the west coast of Michigan, then head back. There was no brunch at Jacobson Marina, however, and we didn’t want to walk into town, so we settled for a few bags of chips. And then we shoved off on a due-west course back to ­America’s Dairyland. By now the lake had ­really laid down, and we were cruising along at 25 mph.

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Lake Michigan is a big expanse of water, but I was still surprised that during the entire trip, we spotted just two other boats—a very high-masted sailboat and a lake freighter—both far off in the distance. At one point on the return, in the middle of the lake, we stopped and shut off the outboard. The sky was perfectly clear, and the lake was a deep cobalt blue. For 360 degrees around us, there was ­nothing to see but blue sky and blue water. It was beautiful and also just a little unsettling for someone who is rarely out of sight of land. I realized for the first time that if something went wrong, we were truly alone—no radio contact with our little handhelds, no other boats around, no cell service. The piece of gear we didn’t have was a tracker, satellite messenger or a satellite phone. We did have our float plan logged with Terry waiting back in Sturgeon Bay, and we had checked in from Michigan. We were well-stocked with food, and if we ran out of water, well, you could drink Lake Michigan.

The return run took just three hours. I wish I had more drama to share, but in the end, this was just a long ride on a pontoon. Funny that since then, when I tell people that I crossed the lake on a pontoon, the response is universal: What a goofy thing to do! Exactly.

The post A Pontoon Boating Adventure Across Lake Michigan appeared first on Boating Mag.

It sounds idyllic, right? You’re going to go overnight on a mini yacht (my words, not theirs) and gallivant around ­Florida’s Sarasota Bay on a beautiful summer day. That’s how I sold it to my wife, at least. See, if you’re not familiar with a pocket cruiser, it generally means a cabin boat under 30 feet length overall designed for boating in favorable, nearshore conditions. Many pocket cruisers prove small enough to trailer as well, which is a huge benefit for those of us who like to consistently see new ports of call. Now, for all you seasoned cruisers out there, you can probably already see where this story gets interesting. At 26 feet, 5 inches with just over a 9-foot beam, the Beneteau Antares 8 is on the small side for overnighting. This is why I led with the “mini yacht” yarn when I was selling this adventure to my wife. I needed someone to photograph for the story, and I needed her to say yes without overthinking it. So, after she overthought it for quite some time, she acquiesced, and we were off to Sarasota Bay.

When we first walked onto the docks, we had trouble spotting the Antares 8—until we realized it was tucked behind an Antares 11. Ten feet longer, the Antares 11 looks like a completely ­different class of boat. After dragging my wife away from that one, we boarded the ­Antares 8 and were ­immediately impressed.

The term “pocket cruiser” is an old one, referring to a cruiser small enough to fit in a vest pocket. Twenty years ago, pocket cruisers were a mainstay of boating, with plenty of boatbuilders providing trailerable cruising boats to a willing populace. Then, they fell out of favor. Now, Beneteau aims to bring back pocket cruisers with the Antares 8. We set out to learn how and why.

In the Pocket

My wife and I personally own a classic Mako of about the same length as the Antares 8, and we had been wracking our brains over how Beneteau would fit cruising amenities on the same footprint. The answer, of course, is a very deliberate layout.

The pilothouse-style design balances the deck space in thirds, with equal attention given to each. The aft third is all about angling; the Antares 8 we weekended aboard came equipped with the fishing package. Multiple rod holders, tackle stowage, and plenty of casting room allow this pocket cruiser to actually fish. The middle third is all about the pilothouse, with a fully enclosed salon complete with air conditioning (more on that later), below-deck sleeping quarters, a ­convertible seating/dining area, fridge and even a cooktop. I was amazed that ­Beneteau was able to pack so much into this size boat. The forward quarter is for the sundeck, bow rails, and anchor locker with a windlass.

After we settled in, I started to explore the helm. Some of the higher-end features on the Antares were blowing my mind. A bow thruster? Now I really did feel like I was on a mini yacht. With a single engine on a 26-plus-foot cabin boat, things can get a little hairy when you’ve got a tight docking situation, especially when you throw in a current and some wind. The Antares 8 proved an easy boat to handle dockside, though, especially with the thruster as an extra tool to use if needed.

Wanting to see how the Antares 8 handled sporty conditions, we made our way to the mouth of the inlet. It was a fairly windy day with a consistent west wind, so there was plenty of fetch to create some small waves to play around in. It’s not a dedicated offshore boat, yet the Beneteau handled the conditions admirably. And the best part was, my wife and I stayed completely dry while we gawked at the high-dollar homes along the mouth of the inlet.

Anchors Aweigh

While it was fun to test this new boat’s mettle, it wasn’t part of the assignment, so my personal indulgence had to come to an end. Besides being off mission, we were feeling hot. This wasn’t a 60-foot yacht with an oversize AC and a generator. This boat’s battery-­powered AC struggled against midday summer heat. And with two small cabin windows, the AC was still the better option than the breeze. It was time to beat the heat the old-fashioned way: by beelining it to the nearest ­sandbar. Can’t do that in a 60-footer.

Not being used to the conveniences of a modern boat, I sent my wife up to the bow when we reached the sandbar. I assumed that at the very least she would be letting down the anchor from the remote at the locker while I backed down to set the anchor. Instead, I realized that the anchor windlass was entirely controllable from the helm, something that blew my classic-boat mind and made singlehanding the Antares 8 an absolute dream. I could drop the anchor and back down on it right from the helm. This was living!

When we were set, my wife hit the mini fridge for a libation as we settled into a bluebird Florida sandbar afternoon. We met some very nice Kentuckians who came ripping in on a Freedom Boat Club pontoon and were discussing having some more “Cuban Sushi” that night.

“Cuban Sushi?” the wife asked.

“Yes,” the husband answered, “the stuff with the fish and the ­peppers and all that.”

“Oh, you mean ceviche! We can get some more of that,” the wife said.

True story. And forevermore in our household, “ceviche” and “Cuban Sushi” will be interchangeable terms. Funny how quickly life changes like that.

Shortly after, another boat showed up with the most aquatic Labrador I had ever seen. It was just deep enough that the dog couldn’t stand, so it swam from person to person, patrolling the area.

Dine and Doze

After a thoroughly enjoyable afternoon full of socializing, snorkeling and soaking in the Gulf waters, we said our goodbyes, I weighed anchor (from the helm, what luxury!), and we were on our way. We had a dinner date at an on-water restaurant in the bay. But first, a quick cleating ­lesson was in order.

Growing up a farmer’s daughter in South Georgia, my wife doesn’t have as much experience boating as I do. When we take our Mako to the Bahamas, we always have a crew full of friends who are seasoned boaters, so the guys are always the dock crew. In this case, we were a crew of two, so I needed my wife to learn to cleat off lines in a hurry. I taught her “the right way” as I had been taught from one of my sailing uncles, and we soon found ourselves the sole vessel in front of a fully occupied on-water restaurant with a strong current running and a ­crosswind. It was a high-pressure situation for my wife. She’s wound tight as it is, so the ­restaurant gawkers didn’t make things any easier for us. Luckily, I had my secret weapon: the bow thruster. We threw out our fenders, doubled back to go in nose first, then let the current nestle us in perfectly on the port side. My wife tied off a couple of perfect cleats, and we were ­strolling down the docks to dinner, cool as ­cucumbers. The gawkers were desperately disappointed not to see a Qualified ­Captain moment.

Read Next: Beneteau Antares 11

Fortunately, the restaurant manager sat us at a table right in front of the Antares 8. Perfect for capturing some golden-hour views of the boat and relaxing with a coastal dinner. When we were just about finished, I went to the boat and turned on the air conditioning, which bothered absolutely no one because it doesn’t make any sound. By the time we were wrapping up dinner, the sun was low and the temperature was comfortable inside the cabin, with the AC humming along on enough battery power to get us back to port.

We hooked back up to shore power at the dock, grabbed a ­shower at the hotel marina, and settled in for the night. How was the sleep? I’ll say this. You can’t expect your best night’s sleep on a pocket cruiser, but you also can’t expect any of the adventure of overnighting on a small boat without a little discomfort. We would do it again in a heartbeat, especially to the Bahamas, where the Antares 8’s shallow draft would allow for endless exploration of secluded coves and beaches. That would give us the opportunity to kick back, drop a line, reel in a big one, and make some fresh Cuban Sushi right on deck.

Essentials for Overnighting on a Small Boat

If you’re expecting a stately king-size bed or a stand-up shower from a pocket cruiser, you’re going to be disappointed. It’s ­essential to recognize a boat’s strengths and weaknesses so that you can set your expectations.

For example, consider bringing an air mattress. The “bed” that you’re going to be sleeping on is just a converted cushion, and “high-density marine-grade foam” is a far cry from a mattress and box spring. Recognizing that it might not be your best night’s sleep, bring all the essentials to make coffee in the morning. My wife brought her French press and made home-quality coffee on the Antares 8’s small cooktop. You’re also going to want to bring toiletries because smaller boats tend to have freshwater washdowns rather than enclosed showers. Bring linens or a sleeping bag, and an overstuffed pillow to accommodate the lack of give in the cushions if you’re going sans blowup mattress, and be prepared for the AC to freeze you out when it catches up.

We dined at on-water restaurants, but you’ll want to pack light prepared meals if your destination is more remote, which I think it should be. This boat’s real strength is in its ability to get into tight anchorages and get you off the grid in search of some adventure, so bringing a few essentials and finding some secluded mooring buoy to overnight should be on the to-do list of any Beneteau Antares 8 owner.

The post Pocket Cruiser Overnighting on Beneteau’s Antares 8 appeared first on Boating Mag.

History

In 1937, 15-year-old Joseph Armand Bombardier invented the Ski Doo to traverse the snowy streets of Quebec. His company grew into railway and aerospace, and was sold in 2003 to an investor group for billions. Sea-Doo personal watercraft,  Can-Am all-terrain vehicles and BRP-leading boat lines followed, and now include Manitou Pontoons, Alumacraft fishing boats, and the Sea-Doo Switch pontoons (a Boating Boat of the Year awardee) with PWC maneuverability powered by BRP’s Rotax engines. Rotax is a 100-year-old Austrian propulsion company, purchased by Bombardier in 1970 to power its vehicles and vessels. BRP recently added a Rotax outboard as a power option for its Manitou pontoons and Alumacraft fishing boats (conventional outboards are also available).

Innovative Design

BRP recently invested $15 million to renovate and expand its Palm Bay, Florida, design center (two other centers exist in France and Quebec), and invited Boating for a behind-the-scenes look. The 600-acre facility sits on a large lake, ideal for testing, surrounded by a sandy track for ATV trials. While running vessels and vehicles to their breaking point might sound like fun, it is the ­serious endgame for the staff of 60 in Palm Bay. A new offering could require 200 to 300 hours of testing—that is years of development.

New stuff starts with 3D and computer-aided-­design drawings. Next, prototypes are  built by 3D printing, by CAD-cut aluminum or by hand-cut wood. Those molds are then 3D-scanned and reviewed by teams of electrical and mechanical engineers, viewing the vessel or vehicle through the lenses of virtual reality and sustainability. This examination process is applied not only to its products, but also its own facilities, and takes years of interaction among the various design centers and departments. 

New Product

The innovative design process was exemplified in the development of the Rotax outboard engine. It began with field observation. According to Curt ­Wilson, director of design and advanced concepts, BRP boat-show staff overheard a woman voicing intrusion and safety concerns about traditional outboard engines. Because the market clamored for outboard ­engines, BRP went to work on how to get the outboard out of the way while keeping its benefits, and while using a Rotax engine as a foundation. 

The low-profile ­outboard, which installs under the ­wide-open MAX Deck model Manitou and Alumacraft boats, debuted two years ago. It accommodates a broader swim platform, and while the propellers are the same, it diminishes the fear of injuries and tangled lines, while access to the water for tubing and swimming is enhanced. In addition, higher fuel efficiency and lower carbon emissions reflect BRP’s goals of lowering carbon footprint, protecting the environment, and incorporating ­innovation into products. 

Read Next: A Behind-the-Scenes Look at BRP’s Cutting-Edge Operation

Let It Rip!

As Denys Lapointe, Chief Design Officer, summarizes, “By combining design and advanced concepts with R&D, we are able to explore new possibilities, and create products that offer unique, ­innovative, and exciting ­adventures for our riders.”

From seeing the original 1959 Sea-Doo in the lobby to running the new 300 hp Fish Pro and new ­Manitou pontoons on the lake to careening around in a Can-Am Defender, I can vouch for BRP’s dedication to innovation and the ­exciting adventures that result.

The post BRP’s Dedication to Innovation appeared first on Boating Mag.

Scanstrut ROKK Charge Pro

$61.95; westmarine.com

USB and USB-C connections can be vulnerable to corrosion in moist and salty air if they aren’t protected. Scanstrut makes an entire series of ports with water-resistant covers that keep them dry when not in use. In fact, a new series, the ROKK Charge Pro, is also water-resistant when cords are in place.

The SC-Multi-F2 Flip Pro Duo has plenty of versatility, with USB and USB-C ports and a 12-volt socket. The unit mounts in dual 1-inch-diameter holes and requires a 10-amp fuse. With a 12- or 24-volt supply to the charging socket, power is also jumped to the USB ports. At 12 volts’ input, the Flip Pro can charge two phones at 36 watts each. When not in use, the cover snaps tightly over the ports, forming an IPX4 waterproof seal.

• Overall Dimensions: 0.78″ x 3.15″ x 1.73″
• Footprint Dimensions: 3.15″ x 1.73″
• Cutting Dimensions: Dual 1.25″ holes, 1.5″ on center  
• Waterproof Rating: IPX4 (splashing water)
• Voltage Input: 12/24
• Fuse: 10 amp
• Output 12 Volts: 36 watts x 2
• Output 24 Volts: 60 watts x 2

Mounting Tips: Install using existing 12-volt outlet plug and wire. Mask the second hole to avoid chipping and tear-out, secure template over existing hole, and drill with a 1-inch step drill bit.

Scanstrut Flip Pro Series

$68.95; amazon.com

The ROKK Charge Pro remains waterproof while in use thanks to the cap that closes over the dual parallel USB plugs. The SC-USB-2 is equipped with USB-A and USB-C ports. It can charge two devices at 36 watts on 12 volts with 60 watts’ output. It takes only a single 1 ¹/₈-inch-diameter hole to mount the device, and it requires a 10-amp fuse in the power line. When connected, and with the lid closed, the device is IPX6 waterproof.

• Overall Dimensions: 1.14″ x 1.53″ x 3.7″
• Footprint Dimensions: 1.53″ x 3.7″
• Cutting Dimensions: 1.125″ hole 
• Waterproof Rating: IPX 6 closed (sprayed stream)
• Voltage Input: 12/24
• Fuse: 10 amp
• Output 12 Volts: 36 watts
• Output 24 Volts: 60 watts

Mounting Tips: Be sure of clearance behind the bulkhead. Mask the drill area to reduce chipping. Drill with a 1-inch step drill bit.

Scanstrut Edge

$124.80; amazon.com

Scanstrut spans the Atlantic, with headquarters in America and the UK. They make brackets, mounts, and struts for everything from smartphones and radar to topside chart-plotter pods and iPads/tablets.

The Scanstrut Edge is a waterproof, wireless, inductive charger on a swivel pedestal designed to be mounted to the dash or bulkhead. Mounting it requires two screws and a power-cord hole, all hidden by the device once it is installed. Spring-loaded “jaws” expand to accept the phone and hold it securely while inductive 10-watt charging begins. The pedestal allows the phone to be tilted 60 degrees or swiveled from vertical to landscape mode, enhancing viewing—a particularly useful feature when the phone is used for navigation.

As an alternative, Scanstrut’s Active ($149.99, westmarine.com) wireless charger mounts only the flat clamping portion to any bulkhead. We find them mounted on dashboard bow-seating areas or compartments and cubbies, where phones are less likely to be viewed and used in place but still quickly available. Both mounts are sleek and complement the looks of dash panels and other bulkheads; mounting several avoids the need for crews to swap and share.

• Overall Dimensions: 2.9″ x 8.17″
• Footprint Dimensions: 2.16″ diameter
• Cutting Dimensions: Three ¹/₈” screw holes, one ¹/₄” power-line hole
• Waterproof Rating: IPX6 (sprayed stream)
• Voltage Input: 12/24
• Fuse: 10 amp
• Output 12 Volts: 10 watts
• Output 24 Volts: 10 watts

Mounting Tips: Be sure that the mounting area allows for 60-degree tilt and 90-degree vertical rotation to landscape orientation. Also be sure that the mounting charger and holder won’t block the view of other items on the dash. Attach the template to the surface-mount area, and mark holes with an awl. Operate drill in reverse through the gelcoat to prevent chipping, then drill normally to finish. 

Read Next: How To Install a Marine Wireless Cell Phone Booster Aboard Your Boat

Peak Design Phone Cases

Varies; amazon.com

Peak Design’s expertise is in camera cases, packs, tripods and camera slings, plus modular-style phone cases and chargers, all of which barely scratch the surface of their accessorizing prowess. Modular accessories allow the owner to move phones from boat to bike to car to desktop to bedside, securing phones while charging them. Cases are available for most popular phones, and magnetic inductive bases work with or without Peak Design cases.

Peak phone cases (from $40) have a shallow, metal-rimmed socket on the back, which engages with the retractable teeth of various mounts. Buttons on either side of the square-mount base release the phone. While engaged, the case holds the phone firmly, even in sudden stops, unexpected potholes, and rough water. Charging bases (from $40) connect to the boat’s 12- or 24-volt power system with USB-C/USB-A cables for inductive charging. Mounting bases (from $40) with 1-inch balls to connect to clamping mounts from Peak Design or suction-cup mounts by makers such as RAM Mounts. Silicone-rubber pipe straps offer another handy option to mount a phone at the helm on a rail or grab bar.

Adhesive dash mounts are also available. Though Peak Design’s adhesive base is flexible to conform to contoured surfaces, we found them more reliable on flat surfaces. 

• Overall Dimensions: Varies
• Footprint Dimensions: 1″ to 3″
• Cutting Dimensions: NA
• Waterproof Rating: NA
• Voltage Input: 12/24
• Output 12 Volts: 15 watts
• Output 24 Volts: 15 watts

Mounting Tips: Adhesive mounting is tricky. Follow the instructions, and don’t use the mount for 24 hours. Suction-cup mounts need a perfectly clean, flat surface. If possible, use a rubber gasket under the pipe-clamp mounts. Mount devices where they aren’t likely to be brushed against.

The post Phone Charging and Mounting Systems for Boats appeared first on Boating Mag.

After 30 years of saltwater use, the intricately curved anodized-aluminum trim along the cap of the open transom of my outboard-powered 21-foot center-console fishing boat was falling apart. Corrosion had eaten away at the metal, and its once-lustrous finish was now crusty and riddled with ragged holes. 

I wanted to buy new trim from the factory, but production of the model had long ceased, and no replacement trim was available. Commissioning a custom piece of trim from a fabricator proved a bit too expensive for my budget.  

Making my own seemed like the way to go. I started with 1-inch aluminum 90-degree angle stock for the straight run across the outboard edge of the transom where the liner meets the hull. On each end of the straight run, however, the transom curves upward to meet the rail cap. Bending the aluminum stock proved too difficult for me, so I turned to another material—1-inch PVC 90-degree angle stock—to adjoin and bookend the aluminum trim. The PVC is 3/16-inch thick, which is drillable and holds fasteners well, and the light-gray color complements my boat and blends well with the aluminum angle stock. It is available in up to 6-foot lengths for $21.08 each from grainger.com.

PVC angle stock is rigid and chemical-resistant but becomes malleable with the application of mild heat, and so it can conform nicely to inside and outside bends. It returns to a rigid state once it cools. Here are the steps I followed to shape one curving piece of trim, a process that needs to be repeated in a mirror image on the opposite side.

Skill Level: 2.5 of 5

Finish Time: Approx. 3-4 hours per each curved piece of trim

Tools and Supplies

• PVC 90-degree 1-inch angle stock ($21.08/6-foot length; grainger.com)
• 2-foot-long piece of ­two-by-six hardwood lumber
• Jig saw or coping saw
• Scrap cardboard and ­masking tape
• Pencil or marker
• Heavy-duty scissors and ­razor cutter
• Assorted vises and clamps
• Heat-resistant gloves
• Heat gun
• Miter box and fine-tooth back saw
• Bastard file
• Power drill and bit set
• No. 10 Phillips 3/4-inch-long truss-head self-tapping screws 
• Phillips screwdriver
• Marine sealant
• Shop rags (to wipe away ­excess sealant)

Create a Template

If you have not done so already, remove the old trim. If it comes off without bending or breaking, you can use the old trim as the template to build a jig as outlined in the next step. If the old trim is not usable for this purpose, securely tape a piece of cardboard against the outside of the transom, then with a pencil or marker, carefully trace along the curve of the transom. Then remove the cardboard and cut carefully with pair of scissors or a razor cutter with a fresh blade along the line you traced. This piece of cardboard will serve as your template for building a jig to shape an inside curve in the PVC stock. 

Build a Jig

I used a piece of two-by-six hardwood lumber about 2 feet in length to build the jig. Using the template, trace the radius of the curve so that it carries from the top edge of the wood to merge with the end of the piece of lumber. Next, use a jig saw or coping saw to cut carefully along the line that you drew, ensuring that the cut is as perpendicular as possible to the broad side of the board, thus creating a flat surface on the narrow edge for clamping and ­bending the PVC 90-degree angle stock. If not, you might have to sand the narrow edge of lumber to obtain a flat and level surface after the cut. 

Tip: Depending on the radius of the curve you need to create, you can use a two-by-four (for a smaller radius than in this project) or a two-by-ten (for a larger radius) to build the jig.

Heat and Bend

Lock the jig into a vice with the broad side vertical and the curved portion on top and hanging over the edge of your work surface to allow the heated PVC to bend around the end of the board. Clamp one side of the PVC angle stock to the top of the jig so that the ­other side of stock is ­oriented upward (to accommodate the inside curve). Gently and slowly warm the PVC in the area of the bend with a heat gun. Keep moving the heat gun to avoid overheating or crinkling of the plastic. As it softens, guide the stock carefully around the radius of the curve until you have created the desired bend.

Tip: A pair of heat-resistant gloves allows you to shape the curve of the heated plastic without suffering any burns to your hands. 

Fit and Trim

Let the angle stock completely cool with the clamps in place until the PVC angle stock becomes rigid again. Then unclamp it from the jig, and test-fit it to the transom edges to ensure that the newly curved piece follows the bend and fits flush on all surfaces. Assuming a good fit, also note where you need to trim the PVC stock on each end, marking both with a piece of masking tape. Cut the angle stock to fit with a miter box and a fine-tooth back saw. Leave at least ¹/₈ to ¹/₁₆ inch of extra length on each end. This will allow you to file down the last little bit of material for the tightest fit possible.

Read Next: How to Apply Clear Coat to a Fiberglass Boat

Drill and Secure

Refit the piece of trim in place—recheck your cuts to make sure everything fits well and flush. Then mark the best location for the mounting screws. Avoid screwing into the apex of the curving portion of the trim or along the vertical leg of the angle stock. Instead, secure it along the straight horizontal portions of the PVC. Drill pilot holes with a No. 21 bit through the trim and into the transom cap, and use stainless-steel 3/4-inch-long No.10 Phillips truss-head self-tapping screws. Bed the surfaces and pilot holes with marine sealant. Don’t overtighten the screws so as to prevent cracking the plastic.

Tip: Before attaching the replacement trim, fill in and seal the old screw holes from the original trim. In this case, I filled in the old holes with Marine Tex. 

The post How to Create Custom Boat Trim appeared first on Boating Mag.

On July 13 of last summer, 18-year-old Harry Besley left Lyme Regis on the English Channel, aiming to be the first person to circumnavigate Britain in an all-electric boat.  He and a rotating crew of friends stopped at more than 45 locations in England, Wales, Northern Ireland, and Scotland before completing the clockwise round trip on August 14.  The team covered 1,708 nautical miles in Electra, a 21-foot Galaxy P7 aluminum-hull rigid inflatable boat (RIB) modified for electric propulsion and powered solely by a 90 kW (120 hp) Evoy Breeze outboard motor. The Evoy system consisted of two 63 kWh liquid-cooled, lithium batteries, a 6.6 kW AC charger, a DC fast charger, and a battery management system that could be remotely monitored. We caught up with Harry for some insights into his epic voyage. —Capt. John Page Williams

What prompted you to develop the Round Britain Electric RIB project?

“I’ve been on and around boats since I was three years old,” Harry explained. “I love sailing, water-skiing, and exploring along the [English] Channel in powerboats. I’ve also taken advantage of local courses in first-aid, lifesaving, and boating safety. For the past couple of years, I’ve thought a lot about circumnavigating Britain.”

“But I didn’t want to burn a lot of petrol making a trip like that,” he continued. “I wanted to show how powerboaters can reduce carbon emissions and promote clean boating. That goal is very important to me as a young person with much of my life on Earth ahead of me. I wanted to show that an electric boat can take this kind of extensive journey now, though I knew that planning for charging along the route would be a logistical challenge.”

Harry’s mother and project manager, Jaqui Besley, adds: “Right from the start, our intention was to help the marine industry move towards a more sustainable and environmentally friendly future, accelerating the change and encouraging industry investment. Our world-record attempt showcased some of the technologies which are leading the market in zero emission propulsion and helped develop knowledge, skills and infrastructure at the 40 locations we visited around the UK.”

This expedition required both training and logistic planning. How did you meet those challenges?

“The whole process took a couple of years,” Harry told us.  “It was a huge, all-over-Britain team effort. My mother is a deeply experienced project and business manager. Our stakeholders provided invaluable help in planning charging stops. Jim Thomas, a local geography teacher and retired Helm for the Lyme Regis Lifeboat Station for Royal National Lifeboat Institution, was a great help in developing my skills on the water. More than 50 sponsors helped us with everything from seamanship training, electrical systems, shock-absorbing seats, and foul-weather clothing to insurance, fire protection, and funding.”

Distance between marina-charging stops ranged from 35 to 50 nautical miles. Though the shore support crew carried a petrol backup generator in case charging wasn’t available in an outport, Harry never had to use it.

Where did you sleep?

“Mainly in a tent on the roof of the shore-support landrover. The crew had short naps on board Electra but I couldn’t! Only eight nights in a real bed on a 32-day trip. To work around weather, tides, and charging availability, we had to start some days well before sunrise. At least Electra’s deck was long enough for one of us to nap while we were underway.”

Read Next: Decoding the Horsepower Ratings of Electric Motors

Which sections of the trip were your favorites? Which sections challenged your seamanship the most?

“We loved the dolphins that showed up periodically to play in our wake, and the seals, and the puffins. The scenery varied, of course, but it was often stunningly beautiful. We had to navigate some serious waves, strong winds, and big tidal currents, but I enjoy it when the water is rough. Electra is a very able boat, especially with the weight of the batteries that allowed her simply to crush choppy seas. The instant torque of the Evoy electric motor made it easy to handle seas, and our suspension seats helped a lot. Our technical clothing—especially our dry suits—was crucial to both comfort and safety.

“The seas were especially rough on the run from the Isle of Man to Northern Ireland, but with such a capable rig, we weren’t worried. The scariest incident came in our attempt to round the southwest corner of Wales, from Milford Haven to Fishguard at night in rough seas, when the electronic display showing charge data cut out. We had to turn back. Otherwise, the trip wasn’t bad—except for the lack of sleep. Balancing daylight, tides, and proper charging availability was a constant challenge, and they didn’t always line up conveniently. Staying sharp when fatigued was not easy; we made some silly mistakes, like tying up the boat overnight with lines too short for the tides. Thank goodness none of those mistakes were too costly.

“All told, it was a great adventure, but the next time I do this, it’ll be in a boat with a cabin!”  [Get a feel for the trip by visiting Harry’s YouTube Channel at youtube.com/@RoundBritain_eRIB.]

What comes next for you?

“Well, I’m now on my gap year and having spent 3 to 4 months in the Mediterranean, I’m heading off to work in Australia. Then I’m back to London to go to university next year to study paramedic science. Maybe I’ll be able to combine boating with being a paramedic—who knows?”

The post On Board With: Harry Besley appeared first on Boating Mag.

Contender Boats is known for tournament sport-fishing boats, but the company describes its 24S center-console as “a great day-tripping boat” that fishes well but also serves families and divers. After several sea trials on the upper and lower Chesapeake Bay, we certainly agree. On those tests, we explored a common question: Should you power your boat with single or twin outboards? Read on to see what we found.

We tested two Contender 24S boats—one with a single Yamaha F300, the other with twin Yamaha F150s.  Both offered top speeds in the low 50s and efficient cruising speeds of 30 to 40 mph (3,500 to 4,500 rpm), yet the twins’ performance stood in stark contrast to the single. As expected, the weight of the twins planted the 24S’s 22.5-degree transom deadrise deep-V hull firmly in the water at all speeds and accelerated that boat to 30 mph, which was  slightly faster than the single, presumably because of the greater surface area of two propellers versus one. Their lift also caused them to run slightly flatter at high speeds. Despite the weight of the two engines, this Contender’s well-designed cockpit still self-bailed ­effectively with twins as the scuppers remained above the waterline. Nonetheless, we think the single was the hands-down winner for several reasons.

The weight difference between the two boats is around 500 pounds. This shows up clearly in the performance charts shown on the opposite page. First, the single-engine boat is ­faster at every rpm stage. The ­single rose onto plane at a lower rpm range (2,500 to 3,000 rpm), despite the lift from the twin ­propellers. ­Second, the single was significantly more fuel-­efficient, ­topping out at a remarkable 3.9 mpg versus 2.7 mpg for the twins at 3,500 rpm. Twin engines require twice as much rigging and maintenance as a single, and they take up more room on the ­transom’s dive platform. ­Finally, the twin-150 rig costs $23,499 more than the single 300 (retail base price $157,210 versus $133,711). Note also that the twin-engine boat would not plane with a single 150, even with the crew all the way up at the bow to help balance it. (The boat will likely do so with one of the optional twin 200s.) Rather than buying twins for get-home redundancy, an annual ­towing-service ­membership might serve many boaters. To me, Contender’s 24S is a great boat for a big estuary like the Chesapeake or for near-coastal work, say up to 25 miles offshore.

While the 24S shows its pure Contender fishing genes, it also offers a head in the console (5 feet, 7 inches of headroom) and seating ranging from U-shaped forward seats to transom jump seats. It’s family-friendly enough to take some kids ­bottomfishing, serve ­Saturday ­race-committee work for a yacht club, or join friends at a sandbar. The 300 hp outboard is plenty powerful for casual tow sports. There’s a lot of storage space, much of it dry, plus coolers. A couple could cruise the 24S along the coast and its rivers with a little attention to Airbnbs and waterside restaurants. It’s built like a tank—solid enough to be heirloom quality for multiple generations of a ­water-loving family.

Read Next: Sterndrive vs. Outboard

One criticism: Its fuel tank, at 130 gallons, seems large for the single-engine version; range at 3,500 rpm works out to 456 miles. While few boaters complain about too much fuel capacity, I’d guess that most people choosing the 24S wouldn’t run more than 100 miles per day, so an 85- to 90-gallon capacity seems more appropriate (range about 230 miles) to avoid wasted space or carrying an extra 330 pounds of dead weight (55 gallons of fuel). For twins, or a single 350 or 400, one might want the extra 55 gallons. That’s my opinion, as someone who would run 40 miles one way in it on occasion. Yours can differ, certainly.

So, as the only “Sport” model in Contender’s line, the 24S seems underrated, deserving of more attention for coastal folks who aren’t interested in hardcore blue water. Yes, as a semicustom builder, Contender can build sport ­features such as forward seating into larger models, but this boat seems to fit neatly into a widespread coastal niche where it fishes ably but also shows off its well-honed versatility.

How We Tested

• Single Engine: Single 300 hp Yamaha V-6 outboard
• Drive/Prop: Outboard/15.5″x 17″ Saltwater Series II 3-blade stainless steel
• Gear Ratio: 1.75:1 Fuel Load: 75 gal. Crew Weight: 380 lb.

How We Tested

• Twin Engines: Twin 150 hp Yamaha I-4 outboards
• Drive/Props: Outboard/13.75″x 19″ Reliance 3-blade stainless steel
• Gear Ratio: 2:1 Fuel Load: 40 gal. Crew Weight: 380 lb.

Contender 24S Specs

The post Single vs. Twin Outboards appeared first on Boating Mag.