The new Mercury Marine ­joystick control for a single outboard puts throttle, shifting and steering control in the palm of your hand. Many captains will find that the joystick makes it easier to handle a single-engine boat in tight quarters. Full-lock steering response is realized with a quick turn of the joystick rather than with multiple turns of the wheel, and shifting from forward to reverse is just as quick. The joystick ­simplifies boathandling, matching the functionality of the Yamaha Helm Master EX single-engine system introduced in 2021.

We tested the single-engine joystick aboard a Highfield Sport 700 RIB powered by a ­Mercury Verado 250 outboard. A lightweight RIB is easily pushed around by wind and current, and thus is a perfect application for the joystick. The same could be said for a pontoon. Tilt the knob forward or back for forward or reverse thrust, and twist it left or right to steer the outboard. The bow of the vessel always follows the direction of the joystick rotation, whether forward or reverse thrust is selected. The joystick is proportional, which means that the farther from the center the joystick is moved, the more thrust is applied. The system is programmed to limit thrust through the joystick, which makes it less likely you’ll dial up too much thrust—we’ve all seen that ­happen around the dock.

Learning to use this control takes some practice. Experienced captains will instinctively reach for the wheel. But once you develop new muscle memory, control becomes instinctive. This joystick also offers some ­autopilot functions if the boat is rigged with a compatible MFD and a Mercury GPS/IMU. The single-engine joystick is compatible only with Mercury Verado and Sea Pro V-8, V-10 and V-12 engine models equipped with Mercury electric power steering. It can be retrofit, but our Merc rep suggests that the ideal time for installation is during a repower, when all the required components can be ordered together. Vessels equipped with electric steering can add the single-engine joystick for about $2,500, and autopilot for an ­additional $3,000. Note that these features are not mutually exclusive. If the vessel has electric steering, AutoPilot can be installed without the joystick, and vice versa.

Read Next: Mercury Joystick Piloting for Pontoons

SmartCraft OS Joystick Update Available

Mercury Marine recently released a SmartCraft software update that gives multiengine joystick piloting new capabilities. Closed-loop velocity control will automatically adjust throttle and steering if wind or current causes the boat to drift off course during joystick ­maneuvers, reducing unwanted fore-aft drifting by up to 74 percent. Speed-based joystick ­operation replaces the previous rpm-based system. The joystick input translates to ­actual speed over ground, and if the boat encounters a force such as a headwind or tailwind, the system will automatically increase or decrease throttle to maintain the captain’s desired speed. For V-12 engines, the software update enables slip control, which allows the transmission to slip up to 90 percent to reduce propeller rpm and more accurately control the boat’s movements. The software update is available for boats that currently have multiengine joystick piloting and next-gen digital throttle and shift controls. See a Mercury dealer for details.

The post Mercury Joystick Steering for Single-Engine Vessels appeared first on Boating Mag.

1. Take a Turn Around the Base

Start by taking a turn around the base of the cleat with the line. This ensures that the load is spread evenly on all fasteners holding the cleat to the dock or boat. With respect to direction of pull on the line, take the line around the far horn first and then back under the closest horn. Now proceed to Step 2.

2. Figure Eight

After taking the line round under both horns, cross the line from under the nearest horn diagonally over the top of the cleat and then under the horn farthest away. Next, bring the line from under the farthest horn back diagonally across the top of the cleat. When looked at from above, you have formed a figure eight. This ensures that you are spreading the load evenly across both horns of the cleat. Proceed to Step 3.

Tip: Making multiple figure eights across the cleat doesn’t make the tie more secure. What it does do is take up all the space on the cleat, preventing you or others from using the cleat for another line, a fender, a bait cart or other item. A single figure eight is sufficient.

3. Half Hitch

Make the half hitch by bending the bitter end of the line under itself to form a loop. Place the loop over the horn. Pull the tag end to snug it all up. The half hitch locks the cleat hitch in place and prevents the line from slipping. Remember that in strong wind or rough waves, the line will be ­stretching—changing diameter—and the boat or dock structure might be flexing and vibrating. These can all cause line that is seemingly secure to slip. So, please: Add the half hitch.

Read Next: Three Choices for Nonsnag Cleats

4. Be Neat

Be neat with any ­excess line. You don’t have to flemish it into coil, but do take care to arrange it neatly and in a way that others on the dock won’t trip over. If the cleat is vertical on a pole or pile, you can hang loops of excess line on the cleat.

The post How to Cleat a Dock Line appeared first on Boating Mag.

Whether it’s the line tying you to a dock, the chain leader connected to your anchor, or the rope that pulls you while water-skiing, rope and chain are a vital part of boating. No matter how you enjoy time on the water, doing so would be impossible, or at least a lot more challenging, without rope and chain.

But just how many different types of rope and chain are there? What’s the difference between them? And why might you choose one over the other? You want to boat as safely and conveniently as possible, right?

Well, get your geek on. We can’t describe everything possible about rope and chain in this article. But you’ll learn more about rope and chain than you can shake a shackle at. Let’s get started.

Rope

What’s the difference between rope and line? The US Navy says that the only rope aboard a ship is the bell rope. That seems preposterous. But what the squids are saying is that a line is a rope with designated purpose. An anchor line or dock line—more specifically, bow lines, stern lines and spring lines—start life as a length or coil of rope. Once its cut to length and put to use, it becomes a line. The bell rope gets a pass, probably due to tradition. In the same spirit, we’ll define the rope used to tow a tube, wakeboarder or water-skier as a towrope.

Starting with rope, it sometimes serves alone as an anchor line. More often, it is used as just one component—along with shackles, swivels and chain—to make up an anchor rode. So-called all-chain rode is also used. We will cover those in the chain section. Either alone or as part of a rode, the anchor line performs several functions.

First, it must be of sufficient strength to hold the boat. Safe loading limits can be found from the rope-maker. For example, 1/2-inch three-strand nylon is rated at a tensile strength of about 5,800 pounds. But what’s more important is the safe working load, which many experts, according to ASTM testing methods, deem to be between 10 and 12 percent of tensile strength. Furthermore, knots in a rope can reduce its strength by half. This is why splicing, which affects working load much less, is preferred for dock-line loops and anchor-rode connections. So, the safe working load of 1/2-inch three-strand is about 580 pounds, maybe half that with knots in the line. Most boats under 30 feet can be safely anchored and tied to the dock with 3/8-line (3,500-pound tensile strength). But experienced boaters often opt for larger-diameter line, like 1/2-inch, because it is easier to grip, especially if they will be hauling the anchor by hand. At your marine store, grab a length of the proposed line and yank on it. Have a buddy or store clerk hold the other end. Think about how hauling it up wet and heavy will feel. Also think about the stress involved when tied to a fixed dock during an astronomically high or low tide, or the stress on the anchor line during a squall that comes up in the night.

Line is expensive and heavy. But it is not a place to over-economize.

A caveat: Make sure the line matches the size of your boat’s cleats. As a rule of thumb, have 1/4 inch of line diameter for every inch of cleat-horn length. This will ensure you have enough cleat to properly belay at least two lines on any cleat. And don’t forget those oversize lines at the fuel dock. They need to fit too.

Regarding feel, braided line will feel better in your hands. But it does not stretch as much as three-strand. This comment leads to the second job of an anchor line: to provide shock absorption. 

On a calm day with no wind or wakes, stretch might not matter much. But when your boat is anchored in choppy or wave- or wake-ridden waters, the boat jerks against the anchor line with tremendous force. This can cause stress-cracking around cleats and chocks, or worse. The line stretch provides shock absorption, reducing the stress on your boat’s cleats and chocks. You don’t have to anchor through a storm to have your boat damaged. The stress works on the boat every time your boat rides to the hook. One day, you’ll notice the stress cracks that “suddenly” appeared around the base of your cleats. 

With its added stretch per diameter, three-strand makes a superior anchor rode compared to braided line. But, like anything in boating, there are exceptions. For mostly calm water and occasional use, combined with a nicer hand feel, braided line can serve as your anchor line. It comes down to how much you anchor and where. 

The above puts cost aside because braided line almost always costs more than three-strand. But the third job an anchor line needs to do will raise the cost of the three-strand line designed to do it. If you have a windlass on your boat, you will want your line to be a “hard lay” type. This refers to the manufacturing process that results in a more abrasion-resistant rope. Hard-lay line can stand up better to the chafe caused by going through the windlass. It is sometimes sold pre-packaged as a rode under “windlass line,” whether you buy it that way or make up your own rode (see boatingmag​.com/how-to-construct-anchor-rode).

A final characteristic for lines in use with a windlass is twist resistance. A windlass, in turning the line from horizontal to vertical, can induce twist. Left unchecked, this twist results in hockling. A hockled line hopelessly twists and doubles up on itself, making it unusable. A swivel shackle is one way to help prevent hockling because it allows the line to untwist as the anchor is pulled to the surface. 

Another solution is to use what’s called plaited rope, sometimes referred to as eight-plait, offered by companies such as Buccaneer Rope Company. This special rope looks like the offspring of a braided mommy and a three-strand daddy. This special construction allows it to resist twist. I can attest that it works. It is more expensive.

When choosing dock lines, you want to consider many of the same qualities you’d select for an anchor line: Make sure it fits your cleats, make sure it’s of sufficient strength, and make sure it’s comfortable for you to grip and handle. Braided rope, despite its lower stretch, makes a fine dock line or mooring painter, especially for tying up day in and day out. The difference in stretch is mitigated by the short length of a dock line compared to an anchor line. Braid offers a nicer hand feel, stays limp over a longer period of time compared to three-strand, and comes in snazzy colors.

Roll Your Own

If you are going to splice up your own anchor rode and dock lines, great! For three-strand, choose nylon over Dacron—often sold in big-box stores—because nylon splices easier. Also, nylon doesn’t get fuzzy and allow its individual threads to pull out like Dacron or Dacron-nylon mixes.

Given the need for handles and specific lengths, I recommend purchasing pre-made ski and boarding towropes.

If you are going to make your own tubing towrope, purchase polypropylene rope. Poly floats, lessening its chance of getting sucked into your props. (But it can still happen, or so I have heard.) You can splice this up with clips for your transom rings or add a loop for a ski tow on one end, and purchase a quick-release tube connector for the tube end.

You must make sure that the rope you choose for towing a tube carries the proper weight rating. You want approximately 1,200 pounds of tensile strength per rated rider size. That means a minimum 3/8-inch line for a one- or two-person tube, and 3/4-inch line for a six-person towable. And you must be able to make splices and knots properly. If the line breaks while you are towing the tube, it puts the riders at great risk. If in any doubt, rated tubing lines can be purchased from towable-makers, such as Airhead and WOW.

Chain

Chain serves aboard recreational boats as one part of an anchor rode. It can be used in a short length along with a long length of rope (anchor line once put to use as part of an anchor rode). Or it can constitute the majority of the rode, the other components being shackles or swivels.

Most of the time, chain is used as a leader between the anchor and line. It serves the purpose of helping the anchor bite more quickly. It does so because its weight holds the shank of the anchor more horizontal than rope does. This lets the anchor flukes dig in sooner as the pull of the boat comes to bear.

Chain also provides chafe protection on the part of the rode in contact with the bottom of the lake or ocean. Rocks, gravel and more can cut through line. As with the anchor-cleat stress cracks described earlier, it may not happen all at once, although it could. But over time, the end of the rode near the anchor gets beat up and chafed every time you anchor. It could part one day without warning. Many boaters swap their anchor line end for end periodically for this reason. Always inspect your rode.

You’ll have a choice of chain finishes. There is galvanized chain, rubber-coated chain or unpainted chain. Freshwater boaters might not need galvanized, but coastal anglers require it. Rubber-coated is quieter and less likely to scrape your deck, though the coating can make it stiff. Plastic coating liquids in which you can dip chain are also sold as a DIY product by Harbor Freight and other companies.

Chain comes in any number of grades, most of which don’t apply to recreational boaters. Proof coil is a general-purpose chain that may or may not be galvanized. The other common chain is BBB chain (usually spoken as “triple B,” which means “bend before break.”) Triple B chain is hot-dipped galvanized. There is also HT (high-tensile) chain, which is stronger for its size. The main concern when selecting chain, though, is the size.

Read Next: Windlass Safety Tips

The size of any chain is the diameter of the links. But different chains can have the same link diameter, while the length and width of the links vary. This is especially important if you use a windlass because the gypsy—the toothed gear that grabs the chain—will be sized for a specific link dimension of chain. Read your windlass manual or call the maker to verify the specific chain required for your windlass.

When sizing chain, it’s important to look at the system it will be part of. The link size determines the shackle size that can be inserted through it. The shackle size determines the size of the thimble protecting the spliced loop that will fit inside the shackle properly. The cuff size determines the size of the line. The size of the line determines the size of your boat’s cleats and possibly its windlass.

Start with the boat, size the line, and let everything else  follow.

Some boats fitted with windlasses, usually larger ones, can use an all-chain anchor rode. This consists of just chain and shackles, and maybe a swivel. An all-chain rode allows the boat to lie to a shorter rode, which is helpful in tight anchorages. This is due to its greater weight. An all-chain rode does not stretch but still provides the required shock absorption. It does this because of the catenary. Like overhead power lines, there is a built-in droop to an all-chain rode. A surging boat takes out some of the droop and then releases it.

As for strength, the chain is generally going to be stronger than the line when sized as indicated above. Typically, use 1/8 inch of chain diameter for every 1/4 inch of line diameter, adjusting up in size depending upon local conditions. (Rough bottom warrants heavier or more abrasion-resistant chain.) High-tensile chains are lighter for the same strength and come into play mostly for larger boats using an all-chain rode.

The Bitter End

The bitter end isn’t a great and famous music venue. (Well, maybe it is.) For our purposes, the bitter end is the end of a line. For example, the end of your anchor line that’s tied to the boat is its bitter end. The bitter end of a dock line is the end without the loop in it. And the bitter end of this story is here. I hope you can more confidently equip your boat with rope and chain after reading it.

Trailer Safety Chain

A very important chain for boaters is the trailer safety chain. This chain type comes in ratings by the Society of Automotive Engineers: SAE Classes 1, 2, 3 and 4.

Class 4: The strength of each length of safety chain and its attachments shall be equal to or exceed in minimum breaking force the GVWR of the trailer (basically, the total weight of the tow vehicle plus the trailer tongue weight).

The post Choosing the Right Rope and Chain for Your Boat appeared first on Boating Mag.

The term “joystick” was coined by pioneer aviators, and the invention must have added to the exhilaration and joy of flight.

Joy was not the emotion we experienced when we grasped the joystick of a Bennington R24 pontoon equipped with the new Yamaha Helm Master EX control system, but we will admit to excited anticipation. It was our first opportunity to experience joystick control for a single engine, a feature of Yamaha’s Helm Master EX that is exclusive to the industry, from both OEM and aftermarket sources.

The Helm Master EX system consists of all-new software and hardware that can be rigged with up to four Yamaha digital electronic control (DEC) outboards from 150 to 425 hp. Installed in layers, the system starts with a new DEC control and digital electric steering (not required for motors with integral power steering). Other components are a new autopilot system, which supports virtual anchor modes, a 5- or 7-inch Yamaha touchscreen display, and the joystick.

We started the demo by trying out the Track Point autopilot, which features one-button heading and course hold. We used the touchscreen to set up a quick multi-waypoint course, setting the system to coast down to a stop at the destination and engage a SetPoint virtual anchor mode to maintain that position. It was all very slick and easy to use. You could set up a sunset-cruise course, and sit back and let Helm Master chauffeur your boat around the lake. The autopilot and SetPoint functions could be handy for anglers, but only if the boat has a 25-inch transom. The 20-inch Yamaha V Max SHO models are not offered with digital controls.

Read Next: Joystick Docking Tips

In a single-engine application, the Helm Master EX joystick doesn’t offer the complete boat control available with multiple engines; it cannot make the boat spin within its length or walk sideways up to a dock. From a functional standpoint, the boat behaves as it would without the joystick. What is gained is fingertip control of steering, throttle and shifting for low-speed maneuvers. Through the joystick, the electric steering can go lock-to-lock in less than two seconds, without the drama of flailing at the wheel with two hands. And you can accomplish a shift from forward to reverse instantly as you steer from full-lock port to full-lock starboard, without ever looking down. With some practice, intuition takes over, and the tension and anxiety many boaters might feel when docking a boat should be greatly diminished.

The price for this stress reduction is determined by the boatbuilder, and will depend on whether the builder is rigging one of the new Yamaha F250 or F300 motors as standard equipment, or a 425 XTO with DEC and integral power steering, or a motor that requires the separate digital electric steering. If you are considering a repower or up-fit project with a Yamaha DEC outboard, a Helm Master EX kit from Yamaha will cost between $11,200 and $16,000, depending on the power-steering system and display choice. Some may consider this system and find the joystick control desirable, but the autopilot and SetPoint functions less so. Alas, that’s not how Yamaha has assembled this technology. The steering-control software is by necessity part of the auto-pilot. We think the value proposition comes down to the personal utility you see in the entire system.

The post Joystick Control for Single-Engine Outboard Boats appeared first on Boating Mag.

Here’s a short clip from the webcast, showcasing the manueverability that is possible.

See the entire webcast here: volvopenta.com/webcast/assisteddocking/

The post Volvo Penta Integrated Docking Showcase appeared first on Boating Mag.

When it comes to docking your inboard—direct-drive or V-drive—boat, many of the general rules apply: Take your time, be patient, have fenders and dock lines ready beforehand, and know your surroundings and the water conditions.

However, inboards possess -inherent differences from their sterndrive or outboard counterparts. When in reverse, there is less intuitive control of the boat—and oftentimes a strong pull to starboard, even with the wheel turned to port. Such is the case when you spin your propeller the opposite direction and pull water through the rudder rather than push it. For -newcomers to today’s big wakeboarding and wakesurfing V-drives, this can be awkward, intimidating and frustrating, but it doesn’t have to be. Here are some general tips to help you dock a V-drive—or any inboard-powered boat—like a true pro.

Slower Can Be Better

It is better to go in and out of gear multiple times while taking your time than to slam in and out of gear a couple of times, then crunch the dock. Use neutral to your advantage by allowing your boat to pivot. A little bit of throttle and then moving to neutral allows the boat to swing without moving forward or backward much at all.

If Possible, Dock to Starboard

Because most single inboards naturally pull to starboard when in reverse, it is easiest to dock to that side. This also allows the skipper to grab the dock if necessary. With the throttle just in gear, approach the dock at an angle—about 30 to 40 degrees. Gently ease the bow to within a couple of feet of the dock, come out of gear to slow momentum, then with the wheel turned to starboard, use a bit of reverse to swing the transom into the dock. If the stern is swinging in too fast, a slight bump of the throttle forward, with the wheel turned starboard and then back to center, will -correct it.

Docking to Port

If you can’t make a U-turn and dock to starboard, docking to port can still be accomplished, just with a little more effort. You will need to use forward momentum rather than reverse to swing the stern of the boat in, so make sure you have ample room. Slowly approach the dock at the same angle, and as you get closer, turn the wheel to port to allow the transom to swing in. Mitigate the momentum with some reverse—with the wheel to starboard, so you’re not fully backing out of the spot you’re -trying to get into.

Stern Thrusters

Several of today’s V-drive boats can be equipped with factory-optioned stern thrusters, most notably from Malibu and Nautique, while companies like EZ Drive Thruster provide aftermarket alternatives for nearly any make and model. These allow for the biggest of wakeboats to be much more nimble and maneuverable, even in tight docking spaces.

Other Considerations

The responsiveness of your boat will depend a lot on your load. How much crew and ballast do you have on board? A loaded boat will not maneuver as easily, so keep that in mind when docking.

The post How to Dock a Single-Engine Inboard Boat appeared first on Boating Mag.

Single-engine outboards are now invited to the joystick party. Yamaha has revealed an all-new Helm Master EX control system for single to quad engines, with a long list of new features, including bolt-on electric power steering, a system for single-engine boats, and the ability for a Yamaha dealer to install Helm Master EX as a repower or upfit application.

Helm Master EX is based on all-new software developed by Yamaha. The original Helm Master system used software designed for the Volvo Penta IPS pod drive that required expert, complex programming for each boat model, and so was only available as an OEM installation. Yamaha says the new system can be programmed by a Yamaha dealer through the Yamaha touchscreen display at the helm on the boat.

All of the Helm Master EX hardware has been updated to consolidate functions and improve ergonomics. The system has four main components that can be installed incrementally, starting with a digital electronic control (DEC), and an engine control unit (ECU) for each motor. The next step is digital electronic steering (DES), an all-electric steering helm and actuator, which mounts to each outboard, similar to hydraulic steering, and can be added to any Yamaha DEC-controlled outboard sold in the United States (except the F350A V-8).

To this foundation, you can add a new autopilot system that includes a compact control pad on the helm, a heading sensor under the console, and an antenna above the boat. Finally, there’s the new joystick, which enables a number of SetPoint modes; this maintains both the boat’s position and its attitude relative to wind, current or structure, and can also be used for on-the-fly adjustment of speed, heading and course in autopilot mode.

Read Next: Joystick Boat Handling Shootout

In a single-engine application, the Helm Master EX joystick does not offer the boat control available with multiple engines; it cannot make the boat walk sideways or spin within its length. It does offer instant, simultaneous fingertip control of steering, throttle and shifting. The power steering can turn the motor from lock to lock in less than two seconds. There’s no more spinning the wheel while also managing the control and simultaneously eyeballing the dock.

One boatbuilder we talked to estimates rigging a single-engine boat with just the new control and electric steering (versus a hydraulic system) will add about $2,000 to its retail price, and that the autopilot and joystick are so easy to plug-and-play, they will be dealer-installed options. For a single engine, the entire system will add about $12,000 to a new-boat price, the builder says. Yamaha says a complete Helm Master EX kit for repower or upfitting a single-outboard boat will cost about $16,000, plus boat-specific cables. That’s spendy, but for someone putting together a premium full-feature bay boat, for example, it could just be the icing on the cake.

More Info: Yamaha Outboards

The post Yamaha Helm Master EX appeared first on Boating Mag.

Thanks for the help! Galati Yacht Sales offered us the use of a 46 Prestige Yacht, and the use of their St. Petersburg, Florida, facility so that we could produce this article for you. We are especially grateful to the help provided by Galati’s Alex Kramer. –ed.

Barely 13 years old and just weeks removed from earning her ­boating-safety certificate, she’s taken control of a twin-engine ­46-foot Prestige with the carefree attitude of a kid who actually thinks docking a near-$1 million boat is child’s play. Of course, in this case, it is. Kind of.

For the kid, docking this beauty hasn’t required hours of learning to work twin engines by finessing the sticks (throttle and shift levers). Heck, in the few minutes she’s been aboard, she hasn’t even touched them. All she’s required is about 10 minutes of instruction and that singular control unit all too familiar to many a teen — the joystick.

Still, docking a boat is no video game, and I’m about to prove it. Welcome to Boating‘s Joystick Challenge, a head-to-head matchup of seasoned skipper versus rank novice. The contestants? The kid, aka Riley Hemmel, a pint-size powerhouse who grew up around boats but has never actually captained anything bigger than an 18-foot runabout. And me, her dad, a guy who has worked for this magazine testing boats for nearly 25 years but, truth be told, typically specializes in boats half this size and with a single outboard or sterndrive on the transom.

Oh, I should still win. Extensive twin-engine experience or not, I’ve docked ­plenty of boats, and I’ve got the obvious edge when it comes to judging wind and current. Plus, I’m a cool, level-headed adult. The kid? She’s a teenager, an ­irrational life form subject to impulsive action and wild mood swings. (Wait, this might be one of my stories she actually reads. Let’s make that “a life form who, while certainly delightful, lacks the judgment and patience required to carry out such a difficult task.”) Still, I’m not taking any chances. As she settles into the helm for our first challenge, I wish her luck — then subtly shift the Bimini so that the full-fledged assault of Florida’s brutal August sun finds its way onto her face. Hey kid, I love you, but if you can’t take the heat, get off the flybridge.

Daddy’s not playin’.

Control Freaks
Though this may be the kid’s first exposure to joystick control, the system in question — Volvo Penta’s Inboard Performance System (IPS) — has actually been around since 2005, the year the engine manufacturer first introduced pod-based drives with forward-facing, twin contra-rotating props. Testing quickly proved the marketing hype was well-deserved. Because pods sat directly below the engines, boatbuilders regained valuable real estate on board. Noise and vibration were also reduced, while efficiency increased as much as 35 percent at higher speeds, thanks in part to the props operating in undisturbed water. Lower horsepower engines were also able to do the work of the higher horsepower engine alternatives.

One of the greatest practical advantages of IPS, however, is in terms of low-speed, close-quarters handling. With the pods able to move independently of one another through a roughly 30-degree arc and effectively provide thrust in almost any direction, Volvo Penta is able to offer outstanding maneuverability. With IPS, the captain can direct the joystick in the direction he wants the boat to move, and the IPS drives (and some cleverly written software) do the rest. Boats can spin within their own length, pivot to any heading, and even move directly sideways into an open slot at a crowded dock. In short, handling a large, multiengine boat is, dare I say it, almost simple.

As you might expect, the kid took to it immediately. Full disclosure? Unless you count the occasional Wii session, she hasn’t grown up with video games (not sure how we achieved that miracle). But the ridiculously short learning curve and intuitive way in which input at the joystick moves the boat through the water was tailor-made for the novice boater. Within minutes, our ­instructor, Alex Kramer from St. Petersburg’s Galati Yacht Sales, had her moving the boat through a narrow channel, spinning a 180 for the return trip, slipping the hull sideways through the water, and backing down like a seasoned pro. Yes, I got the same crash course (don’t tell the kid, but I actually have some previous experience with joystick systems), but I knew I was in for a battle almost from the start. Like I said, she’s good — and despite my best efforts with that Bimini, for some reason still not sweating. She has ice­water in her veins.

Let the Games Begin
Our first challenge, navigating the no-wake channel off the Galati docks, was simple. Pushing the joystick forward propelled us through the water; pushing it farther increased our speed. When we wanted to slow down and stop, we simply let the stick return to the neutral position before pulling it back to give a little bump in reverse and cease our momentum. Spinning the boat through a 180-degree turn was also pretty much a draw. A simple twist of the joystick resulted in the boat spinning within its own length. We both also steered the boat through a turn with a combination of forward push and subtle twist before doing likewise in reverse. Each time, the IPS pods adjusted their thrust and direction to transfer our input into intuitive movement. We both even held the boat in position despite wind and current using Volvo Penta’s Dynamic Positioning System (DPS). We simply pushed a button. The pod drives and linked GPS did the rest, keeping us within feet of our mark. Open water, however, was tailor-made for the kid. The scenarios ahead would put us in close proximity to Galati’s floating concrete docks. I nonchalantly asked Kramer the price of the Prestige, then made a few subtle comments about the sickening sound of crunching fiberglass before finally turning over the helm.

The next challenge, slipping the boat directly sideways to pull up to a parallel dock, would require a little more finesse — and coolness under pressure. We agreed upon a target, a sign posted on one of the dock pilings, to judge our results. Slide over so that the sign was opposite the helm and you won. Miss it and you lose, not to mention crunch the theoretical mega-yachts waiting fore and aft. Long story short, we both pulled it off, coming to rest inches off the dock. Again, IPS made it simple. Pushing the joystick sideways toward the dock slid the boat in the intended direction. Pushing the stick farther increased the power and thus the rate of travel. When the wind kicked the bow at an angle, a gentle rotation of the joystick brought the boat back to parallel. Moving ahead of or behind our mark was quickly corrected with gentle pressure on the stick forward or back.

Kramer’s best advice? Keep your fingers on the joystick and make subtle motions rather than make a movement and release. The kid got the hang of that idea better, and her smoothness was notable. She nudged the joystick over to slide the boat sideways, released the tension to let the drift settle, then bumped it again until she had the boat in perfect position. I, on the other hand, was a little more heavy-handed. I pushed the stick harder, powering the boat more rapidly toward the dock, then occasionally had to correct with thrust in the opposite direction to slow my approach. I may have occasionally fared better against the clock, but in terms of precision, she was winning the war, even when we repositioned and approached the dock to the starboard-side, negating the sight advantage that came with the Prestige’s portside helm. Long story short, the kid has pretty good depth perception. And increasingly, a rather smug smile. Time to up the ante.

Don’t Call It a Comeback
I’ll admit the final challenge — backing into a slip — is the one where I thought I would, well, smoke the little punk. With ease. My ­confidence grew once I saw the setup. We wouldn’t be simply backing the 46-foot Prestige into a slip, we’d first be pivoting it around a 45-degree corner in reverse before backing into a narrow slip with an unforgiving dock to port and intimidating pilings to starboard. My cockiness would have grown unchecked save for one thing — I was semiconvinced the kid, my kid, was about to tear up some very pricey fiberglass. And let’s just say my checkbook isn’t quite up to that ­challenge.

As the more experienced captain, I went first, trying to remember my rule about never approaching a dock faster than you’re willing to hit it. I gauged how far to reverse before beginning my turn into the slip, pivoted the boat deftly around the intimidating corner of the slip, and then began ­backing down toward the seawall. My momentum, however, pushed me a little close to the piling, and I responded with one of my classic bursts of power. I recovered quickly, but as some guy named Newton once said, for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction, and I once again found myself correcting my heavy hand with another subtle correction. To the crowd on the dock, it was probably little more than a blip in my performance, but like a kid taking their first driving test, I could feel the judge in the next seat deducting points off my performance. I had just left the door to victory open — and that darn kid was ­chomping at the bit to walk triumphantly through.

I tried my best to distract. I commented on the oppressive heat, asked about the boys at school, even went all-out Caddyshack on her (“M-m-m, miss it Noonan! Miss!”), but alas, it wasn’t meant to be. A 13-year-old kid slipped a nearly $1 million boat into a claustrophobic slip without even breaking a sweat. I was bitterly defeated and yet simultaneously proud. My kid just did that. And if she can do it, so can you — even if you are an old salt with a fondness for the sticks.

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Side-tying your boat to pilings at a stationary dock poses a problem in waters subject to tides: How to do you keep the boat securely moored, prevent dock rash and avoid sinking your vessel while also accommodating daily fluctuations in water levels?

Boaters often employ out-pilings and crossed-tied bow and stern lines, as well as spring lines, which allow the boat to float with the tide. It’s a hassle and also complicates the docking and boarding processes.

Read Next: How to Rig Your Slip

Florida-based SlideMoor Docking Systems LLC offers another solution. It uses tracks on pilings that allow sliding fenders and cleats to move up and down on the track as the boat rises and falls. Vessels less than 60 feet require only two SlideMoor Plus units (one at the stern cleat and one at the spring cleat). With a wide choice of fender sizes, tracks are available in lengths ranging from 8 to 20 feet for various tidal ranges. This makes docking and boarding much safer and easier.

SlideMoor recommends professional installation, but a competent DIYer can handle the job with the right tools and helping hands.

Skill Level: 3.5 out of 5
Finish Time: Approx. 3 Hours

Tools and Supplies

• SlideMoor Plus (starting at $959 per piling, slidemoor.com)
• Marker, such as a grease pencil or Sharpie
• Level
• Tape measure
• Drill motor and 1/4-inch bit
• Pneumatic impact wrench, air compressor and air line
• Impact socket-wrench set
• 1/2-by-6-inch stainless-steel lag bolts (10 per 8-foot track)
• 3/16-by-3-inch stainless-steel lag bolts (two per parking cleat)
• Low-stretch dock lines (two per piling)
• Slotted screwdriver
• Socket-wrench set

Mark the Pilings
The length of the tracks should accommodate the greatest possible tidal swing, plus 18 inches. Determine which two pilings to use, ensuring that each will line up directly with the stern and spring cleats. Mark where your boat’s rub rail touches each at the stern and spring cleats at dead low tide, then measure 18 inches below that point and mark it to indicate where the bottom of the track will install. The height of the rub rail in the stern might be lower than the height at the spring cleat, so the marks on each piling might vary.

Drill the Mounting Holes
Tie a safety rope through the top hole of the track in case the track falls into the water. Install the supplied 1/2-by-1-inch stop bolt, lock washer and nut in the lower track hole. Position the track within the proper operating range. Don’t remove the corrosion-­resistant backing tape. Mark the top hole, remove the track, and drill a 1/4-inch hole into the piling. Using the top hole only, bolt the track snugly in place. Ensure the track is plumb and centered; mark all the holes and remove the track. Drill 1/4-inch holes for each of the marks.

Install the Track
Secure the track using 1/2-by-6-inch stainless-steel lag bolts (not supplied). A pneumatic impact wrench can ease the task of driving the lag bolts into the dense timber, especially for hard-to-reach bolts below the dock. Recheck and tighten the lag bolts after one week of use. Using stainless-steel hardware (not supplied), mount the “parking” cleat on the piling where it can be reached from the boat, just above the top of the track and to the side in order to hold the slide in position when your boat is away from the dock.

Assemble the Slide
Insert the supplied 5/16-inch stainless-steel bolts into the cleats and mount on both sides of the pre-­assembled slide. Determine if the cleats need to be installed in the middle or top of the slide (based on the vertical distance of the rub rail to the top of the coaming). Secure with the supplied locknut. Attach a dock line to one of the cleats. Lift the slide assembly to the top of the track and slide it on. Tie the line to the parking cleat to hold the slide in place. Install the supplied 1/2-by-1-inch stop bolt in the top track hole and secure it with the lock washer and nut.

Tip: When tying off, position your boat with each cleat directly in line with the SlideMoor and pull the line tight before tying off. Return the line from the deck cleat to the remaining cleat on the other side of the SlideMoor. Once again, tie off tightly. Also, always use low-stretch dock lines to ensure optimum performance of the system.

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