Reflect: EchoMaster Radar Reflector

Saving Grace: Small boats don’t always show up on the radar screens of larger vessels, which could make you invisible to traffic. Adding a radar reflector such as an EchoMaster from Davis Instruments can solve the problem. The standard EchoMaster, when assembled, ­creates a 12-square-meter cross section visible in the standard 9-9.6 GHz X radar band, making your boat visible to others with radar.

The Snag: Must be installed at the highest point on your boat, so small vessels lacking towers or T-tops might not get the full benefit. You could still ­disappear in another boat’s “main bang.”

Price: $107.99; westmarine.com

Signal: Orion Signaling Mirror

Saving Grace: A signaling mirror fits in your pocket and, in dire situations when all else fails, can be used to reflect the sun’s rays to catch the eye of another passing vessel and alert them that you need help. It doesn’t cost much, doesn’t need batteries, and can catch someone else’s attention if you need it. It comes with a lanyard, so you can attach it to your person should you be in the water. The 3-by-4-inch acrylic mirror does not corrode and features rounded corners so that it won’t scrape or snag.

The Snag: Requires a light source to reflect and, although it could be visible for up to 10 miles, is more for close-range signaling.

Price: $15.99; westmarine.com

Read Next: Best Marine Flare Guns & Visual Distress Signals

Alert: Jet Logic Safety Whistle

Saving Grace: This high-pitched whistle comes with a floating lanyard that clips to your belt or life vest. It’s another inexpensive item that’s easy to carry if you need it. If you’re stuck adrift or taking on water and can’t raise help on your VHF, sometimes a shrill noise can alert a passing vessel that you need help. Again, it doesn’t need batteries or maintenance; you just pull it out and blow. Because it’s made out of plastic, you don’t have to worry about rust or corrosion.

The Snag: Might be hard to hear over ambient wind and engine noise, and works only if other vessels are in close proximity to yours.

Price: $7.99; westmarine.com

The post Three Top Manual Signaling Devices appeared first on Boating Mag.

Scanstrut ROKK Charge Pro

$61.95; westmarine.com

USB and USB-C connections can be vulnerable to corrosion in moist and salty air if they aren’t protected. Scanstrut makes an entire series of ports with water-resistant covers that keep them dry when not in use. In fact, a new series, the ROKK Charge Pro, is also water-resistant when cords are in place.

The SC-Multi-F2 Flip Pro Duo has plenty of versatility, with USB and USB-C ports and a 12-volt socket. The unit mounts in dual 1-inch-diameter holes and requires a 10-amp fuse. With a 12- or 24-volt supply to the charging socket, power is also jumped to the USB ports. At 12 volts’ input, the Flip Pro can charge two phones at 36 watts each. When not in use, the cover snaps tightly over the ports, forming an IPX4 waterproof seal.

• Overall Dimensions: 0.78″ x 3.15″ x 1.73″
• Footprint Dimensions: 3.15″ x 1.73″
• Cutting Dimensions: Dual 1.25″ holes, 1.5″ on center  
• Waterproof Rating: IPX4 (splashing water)
• Voltage Input: 12/24
• Fuse: 10 amp
• Output 12 Volts: 36 watts x 2
• Output 24 Volts: 60 watts x 2

Mounting Tips: Install using existing 12-volt outlet plug and wire. Mask the second hole to avoid chipping and tear-out, secure template over existing hole, and drill with a 1-inch step drill bit.

Scanstrut Flip Pro Series

$68.95; amazon.com

The ROKK Charge Pro remains waterproof while in use thanks to the cap that closes over the dual parallel USB plugs. The SC-USB-2 is equipped with USB-A and USB-C ports. It can charge two devices at 36 watts on 12 volts with 60 watts’ output. It takes only a single 1 ¹/₈-inch-diameter hole to mount the device, and it requires a 10-amp fuse in the power line. When connected, and with the lid closed, the device is IPX6 waterproof.

• Overall Dimensions: 1.14″ x 1.53″ x 3.7″
• Footprint Dimensions: 1.53″ x 3.7″
• Cutting Dimensions: 1.125″ hole 
• Waterproof Rating: IPX 6 closed (sprayed stream)
• Voltage Input: 12/24
• Fuse: 10 amp
• Output 12 Volts: 36 watts
• Output 24 Volts: 60 watts

Mounting Tips: Be sure of clearance behind the bulkhead. Mask the drill area to reduce chipping. Drill with a 1-inch step drill bit.

Scanstrut Edge

$124.80; amazon.com

Scanstrut spans the Atlantic, with headquarters in America and the UK. They make brackets, mounts, and struts for everything from smartphones and radar to topside chart-plotter pods and iPads/tablets.

The Scanstrut Edge is a waterproof, wireless, inductive charger on a swivel pedestal designed to be mounted to the dash or bulkhead. Mounting it requires two screws and a power-cord hole, all hidden by the device once it is installed. Spring-loaded “jaws” expand to accept the phone and hold it securely while inductive 10-watt charging begins. The pedestal allows the phone to be tilted 60 degrees or swiveled from vertical to landscape mode, enhancing viewing—a particularly useful feature when the phone is used for navigation.

As an alternative, Scanstrut’s Active ($149.99, westmarine.com) wireless charger mounts only the flat clamping portion to any bulkhead. We find them mounted on dashboard bow-seating areas or compartments and cubbies, where phones are less likely to be viewed and used in place but still quickly available. Both mounts are sleek and complement the looks of dash panels and other bulkheads; mounting several avoids the need for crews to swap and share.

• Overall Dimensions: 2.9″ x 8.17″
• Footprint Dimensions: 2.16″ diameter
• Cutting Dimensions: Three ¹/₈” screw holes, one ¹/₄” power-line hole
• Waterproof Rating: IPX6 (sprayed stream)
• Voltage Input: 12/24
• Fuse: 10 amp
• Output 12 Volts: 10 watts
• Output 24 Volts: 10 watts

Mounting Tips: Be sure that the mounting area allows for 60-degree tilt and 90-degree vertical rotation to landscape orientation. Also be sure that the mounting charger and holder won’t block the view of other items on the dash. Attach the template to the surface-mount area, and mark holes with an awl. Operate drill in reverse through the gelcoat to prevent chipping, then drill normally to finish. 

Read Next: How To Install a Marine Wireless Cell Phone Booster Aboard Your Boat

Peak Design Phone Cases

Varies; amazon.com

Peak Design’s expertise is in camera cases, packs, tripods and camera slings, plus modular-style phone cases and chargers, all of which barely scratch the surface of their accessorizing prowess. Modular accessories allow the owner to move phones from boat to bike to car to desktop to bedside, securing phones while charging them. Cases are available for most popular phones, and magnetic inductive bases work with or without Peak Design cases.

Peak phone cases (from $40) have a shallow, metal-rimmed socket on the back, which engages with the retractable teeth of various mounts. Buttons on either side of the square-mount base release the phone. While engaged, the case holds the phone firmly, even in sudden stops, unexpected potholes, and rough water. Charging bases (from $40) connect to the boat’s 12- or 24-volt power system with USB-C/USB-A cables for inductive charging. Mounting bases (from $40) with 1-inch balls to connect to clamping mounts from Peak Design or suction-cup mounts by makers such as RAM Mounts. Silicone-rubber pipe straps offer another handy option to mount a phone at the helm on a rail or grab bar.

Adhesive dash mounts are also available. Though Peak Design’s adhesive base is flexible to conform to contoured surfaces, we found them more reliable on flat surfaces. 

• Overall Dimensions: Varies
• Footprint Dimensions: 1″ to 3″
• Cutting Dimensions: NA
• Waterproof Rating: NA
• Voltage Input: 12/24
• Output 12 Volts: 15 watts
• Output 24 Volts: 15 watts

Mounting Tips: Adhesive mounting is tricky. Follow the instructions, and don’t use the mount for 24 hours. Suction-cup mounts need a perfectly clean, flat surface. If possible, use a rubber gasket under the pipe-clamp mounts. Mount devices where they aren’t likely to be brushed against.

The post Phone Charging and Mounting Systems for Boats appeared first on Boating Mag.

After 30 years of saltwater use, the intricately curved anodized-aluminum trim along the cap of the open transom of my outboard-powered 21-foot center-console fishing boat was falling apart. Corrosion had eaten away at the metal, and its once-lustrous finish was now crusty and riddled with ragged holes. 

I wanted to buy new trim from the factory, but production of the model had long ceased, and no replacement trim was available. Commissioning a custom piece of trim from a fabricator proved a bit too expensive for my budget.  

Making my own seemed like the way to go. I started with 1-inch aluminum 90-degree angle stock for the straight run across the outboard edge of the transom where the liner meets the hull. On each end of the straight run, however, the transom curves upward to meet the rail cap. Bending the aluminum stock proved too difficult for me, so I turned to another material—1-inch PVC 90-degree angle stock—to adjoin and bookend the aluminum trim. The PVC is 3/16-inch thick, which is drillable and holds fasteners well, and the light-gray color complements my boat and blends well with the aluminum angle stock. It is available in up to 6-foot lengths for $21.08 each from grainger.com.

PVC angle stock is rigid and chemical-resistant but becomes malleable with the application of mild heat, and so it can conform nicely to inside and outside bends. It returns to a rigid state once it cools. Here are the steps I followed to shape one curving piece of trim, a process that needs to be repeated in a mirror image on the opposite side.

Skill Level: 2.5 of 5

Finish Time: Approx. 3-4 hours per each curved piece of trim

Tools and Supplies

• PVC 90-degree 1-inch angle stock ($21.08/6-foot length; grainger.com)
• 2-foot-long piece of ­two-by-six hardwood lumber
• Jig saw or coping saw
• Scrap cardboard and ­masking tape
• Pencil or marker
• Heavy-duty scissors and ­razor cutter
• Assorted vises and clamps
• Heat-resistant gloves
• Heat gun
• Miter box and fine-tooth back saw
• Bastard file
• Power drill and bit set
• No. 10 Phillips 3/4-inch-long truss-head self-tapping screws 
• Phillips screwdriver
• Marine sealant
• Shop rags (to wipe away ­excess sealant)

Create a Template

If you have not done so already, remove the old trim. If it comes off without bending or breaking, you can use the old trim as the template to build a jig as outlined in the next step. If the old trim is not usable for this purpose, securely tape a piece of cardboard against the outside of the transom, then with a pencil or marker, carefully trace along the curve of the transom. Then remove the cardboard and cut carefully with pair of scissors or a razor cutter with a fresh blade along the line you traced. This piece of cardboard will serve as your template for building a jig to shape an inside curve in the PVC stock. 

Build a Jig

I used a piece of two-by-six hardwood lumber about 2 feet in length to build the jig. Using the template, trace the radius of the curve so that it carries from the top edge of the wood to merge with the end of the piece of lumber. Next, use a jig saw or coping saw to cut carefully along the line that you drew, ensuring that the cut is as perpendicular as possible to the broad side of the board, thus creating a flat surface on the narrow edge for clamping and ­bending the PVC 90-degree angle stock. If not, you might have to sand the narrow edge of lumber to obtain a flat and level surface after the cut. 

Tip: Depending on the radius of the curve you need to create, you can use a two-by-four (for a smaller radius than in this project) or a two-by-ten (for a larger radius) to build the jig.

Heat and Bend

Lock the jig into a vice with the broad side vertical and the curved portion on top and hanging over the edge of your work surface to allow the heated PVC to bend around the end of the board. Clamp one side of the PVC angle stock to the top of the jig so that the ­other side of stock is ­oriented upward (to accommodate the inside curve). Gently and slowly warm the PVC in the area of the bend with a heat gun. Keep moving the heat gun to avoid overheating or crinkling of the plastic. As it softens, guide the stock carefully around the radius of the curve until you have created the desired bend.

Tip: A pair of heat-resistant gloves allows you to shape the curve of the heated plastic without suffering any burns to your hands. 

Fit and Trim

Let the angle stock completely cool with the clamps in place until the PVC angle stock becomes rigid again. Then unclamp it from the jig, and test-fit it to the transom edges to ensure that the newly curved piece follows the bend and fits flush on all surfaces. Assuming a good fit, also note where you need to trim the PVC stock on each end, marking both with a piece of masking tape. Cut the angle stock to fit with a miter box and a fine-tooth back saw. Leave at least ¹/₈ to ¹/₁₆ inch of extra length on each end. This will allow you to file down the last little bit of material for the tightest fit possible.

Read Next: How to Apply Clear Coat to a Fiberglass Boat

Drill and Secure

Refit the piece of trim in place—recheck your cuts to make sure everything fits well and flush. Then mark the best location for the mounting screws. Avoid screwing into the apex of the curving portion of the trim or along the vertical leg of the angle stock. Instead, secure it along the straight horizontal portions of the PVC. Drill pilot holes with a No. 21 bit through the trim and into the transom cap, and use stainless-steel 3/4-inch-long No.10 Phillips truss-head self-tapping screws. Bed the surfaces and pilot holes with marine sealant. Don’t overtighten the screws so as to prevent cracking the plastic.

Tip: Before attaching the replacement trim, fill in and seal the old screw holes from the original trim. In this case, I filled in the old holes with Marine Tex. 

The post How to Create Custom Boat Trim appeared first on Boating Mag.

If you want to boat more safely at night, night-vision technology can help minimize your odds of getting off course or missing a hidden ­aid-to-navigation post or piece of flotsam. There are two basic technologies to open night eyes. Let’s see what those are.

As Far As the Eye Can See

Light is electromagnetic energy measured in nanometers. The human eye can see wavelengths between 380 nm, beginning at violet and bordering on ultraviolet, and 700 nm, which is red and bordering on invisible infrared. The shorter wavelengths of violet and blue range from 380 nm to about 500 nm. They are weaker and are the first to fade from human visibility in low light. From 500 nm to 600 nm—the end of blue to the beginning of red—the waves are longer and stronger, and are last to fade from visibility. Past 700 nm, the waves are long, strong and invisible. But you can feel them—they emit infrared heat.

Feeling the Heat

Optics such as those offered by X Vision and FLIR sense infrared light waves and can detect temperature differences of less than 1 degree. It is the IR devices’ sensitivity to minute temperature changes from one object to another that allows them to project highly detailed images on an IR sensor. 

Modern Night Vision

Newer night-vision technology such as the Sionyx Aurora Pro ($849, amazon.com) captures available light from 380 nm UV to nearly 1,100 nm infrared, amplifies it, and projects it onto a digital sensor rather than the old-school phosphorous-charged sensor that rendered the green imaging we see in war movies. The digital sensor yields an image that is closer to photographic and shockingly detailed with no apparent light, and it fills in a lack of color with infrared imaging. It can transmit near-real-time imaging to external displays via a micro HDMI cable or to a smart device via Wi-Fi. It doubles as a still or video camera in dark or daylight and stores images on a microSD card. Should you want to mount such a device, look for the standard 1/4-by-20-inch threaded tripod socket. 

Infrared Scopes

FLIR is the longest-running brand in marine infrared technology for mariners, but there are other companies in the market too, such as X Vision, which makes scopes and binoculars. I like the TB 300 binocular for its crisp IR image, its ability to change the color gradient for visual preferences, and for its 16x zoom. Image hotspots can be illuminated in contrasting colors for helpful detail at a glance. It can detect temperature differences of 0.05 degrees Fahrenheit. It has a detection range of 1,500 yards, with strong detail to 500 yards, rendering outstanding clarity with a 16x zoom. A laser range ­finder works to 1,500 yards and gives better situational awareness in the dark, when depth ­perception is weakest. ­Wi-FI ­connectivity allows ­displaying ­images on a smart device.

Read Next: Help for Boaters to See in the Dark

 Ship-Mounted Devices

Fixed-mounted devices are valued for their stability and hands-free use on larger vessels. On smaller vessels, chop jostles the camera, and unless it is optically stabilized, the image can jump around on the display. Sionyx’s Nightwave camera ($1,895, westmarine.com) can be mounted upright or upside down and the image flipped with the software. It isn’t stabilized per se, but its method of upsizing the image to a display softens the effect of the chop. In IR devices, be sure to choose one with image ­stabilization—an important but costly upgrade—or stick with the flexibility of handhelds.

Night-vision technology is widely available, and ­growing ­competition makes it more ­affordable every day.

The post Night-Vision Technology for Boaters appeared first on Boating Mag.

As forward-facing sonar, aka live sonar, from brands such as Garmin and Lowrance takes over freshwater bass fishing, some anglers forget that the company that introduced this technology was Humminbird. Now Humminbird has stepped up its game with a new generation of FFS—Mega Live 2—along with a new series of compatible multifunction displays.

Mega Live 2 features enhanced clarity and a more stable view versus the previous Humminbird forward-facing-sonar ­system. It offers improved real-time lure tracking, enhanced target ­separation, and optimized color choices. You can call up any one of 15 vibrant color palettes, each designed to improve visibility in varying water and light conditions.

“With Mega Live 2, Humminbird’s ­live-imaging technology now exceeds angler expectations, delivering the ­clarity, detail, bait tracking, and target separation needed to make the most of every cast,” says Braeden Harris, Humminbird brand manager.  

Mega Live 2 offers three viewing modes—Down, Forward, and Landscape—to allow anglers to scan different areas around the boat. The TargetBoost function in Mega Live 2 boosts brightness and contrast, making suspended fish and bait stand out more clearly in open water. Mega Live 2 sonar operates on a single frequency in the 1 MHz range, and is compatible with Humminbird’s Apex, Solis G3 and the latest series, Xplore.

Read Next: Humminbird Mega Live Hand Control

Boasting the best features of Humminbird’s Helix series, the new Xplore series of MFDs integrates seamlessly with Mega Live 2. Xplore displays feature a simpler user interface, Cross Touch control, improved waypoint management, and built-in Lakemaster and Coastmaster with mapping of 13,000 US and ­Canadian lakes, 170 million acres of coastal waters, and SmartStrike for real-time fish ­activity predictions.

A powerful quad-core processor and customizable side buttons allow anglers to quickly access critical features. Available in 9-, 10- and 12-inch ­models, Xplore integrates with the ­One-Boat Network for control of systems such as compatible Minn Kota trolling motors, as well as Mega Live 2. Xplore starts at $1,299.99; Mega Live 2 sonar starts at $1,499.99; humminbird.johnsonoutdoors.com.

The post Humminbird Mega Live 2 and Xplore MFDs appeared first on Boating Mag.

No matter how many lights you have hard-wired into your boat, every boater would be well-served to carry aboard some type of handheld illumination device. You never know when you’re going to need to navigate through a bunch of moored sailboats at the marina after dark, or find that loose wire connector in the bilge. Here are three types of handheld lights to consider.

Spotlight: West Marine Heavy Waterproof Rechargeable LED Spotlight

The Bright Side:  A spotlight’s concentrated beam is great for picking out buoys at a distance. A handheld, such as this one from West Marine, does the trick. Its rugged aluminum case has an IP67 waterproof rating and floats. Its three settings harness 10,000 lumens. Rechargeable lithium-ion batteries provide three hours of use at full power, six hours at low power.

The Dark Side: It takes six to eight hours to fully recharge and is not the best choice for lighting up the deck or poking around in the bilge.

Price: $174.99; Buy it now at West Marine

Flashlight: Streamlight ProTac HL 6

The Bright Side: A must-have for making repairs in a dark bilge, the Streamlight ProTac HL 6 can also help spot navaids or pick out a slip number on a dark dock, but not as well as a spotlight. The LED lights are powered by rechargeable ­lithium-ion batteries and can create a beam that extends over 1,857 feet on its highest setting (5,300 lumens). Cased in aircraft-grade aluminum, it can ­handle being dropped on deck, and has an IPX7 ­waterproof rating.

The Dark Side: The beam is narrower than a spotlight’s, so it won’t provide the full scope of your surroundings.

Price: $133.65; Buy it now on Amazon

Read Next: Top Spotlights for Boaters

Floodlight: Milwaukee M18 Rover Dual Power Floodlight

The Bright Side: Floodlights cast a wide beam but not necessarily over a great distance. They are great to light up an area close to the boat, such as for landing a fish or as a help in docking. The handheld  Milwaukee M18 Rover has both lithium-ion batteries and an AC adapter so that you can plug it into a 120-volt system. It provides up to 4,000 lumens and can run for three to 12 hours. It can be rotated 120 degrees, and the durable case features keyholes, so you can hang it overhead.

The Dark Side: Its IP54 rating is water-resistant, not waterproof.

Price: $149; Buy it at West Marine

The post Three Top Handheld Lights for Boaters appeared first on Boating Mag.

Whether you’re an angler hoping to avoid line snags or a regular boater looking to avoid stubbing your toes, cleats that can retract or fold flush with the deck could be on your radar. Here are three types of nontripping, nonsnagging cleats to consider.

Pull-Up Cleats: Whitecap 8″ Stainless-Steel Pull-Up Cleat

The Hold: Pull-up cleats sit flush to the deck when not in use in order to prevent line snags and toe stubs. When you’re ready to tie off, reach down and pull up the cleats by their horns, and a locking mechanism secures them into place, where they works like a standard boat cleats. Push down on them to retract after using, and they return flush to the deck in their mounts.

The Slip: Caked salt can inhibit opening. Rinse and open regularly to ensure smooth operation. May require more installation depth than other-style cleats.

Price: $124.99; Buy at West Marine

Pop-Up Cleats: Attwood 4½” Stainless-Steel Pop-Up Cleat

The Hold: Pop-up cleats are retracted in the default position to sit flush the deck, with no protruding sharp edges to step on, trip on or snag. With a push-button release, they pop up and into place when it’s time to set the dock lines. The cleat is held in place by two friction springs, and the cleat’s horns and backing plate handle the load. 

The Slip: Caked salt can inhibit opening. Rinse and open regularly to ensure smooth operation. May require more installation depth than other-style cleats.

Price: $80.99; Buy at West Marine

Read Next: Installing Retractable Cleats

Fold-Down Cleats: Whitecap 6″ Stainless-Steel Folding Cleat

The Hold: Folding cleats uses a hinge system to lift them up when the dock lines are ready, and to fold them down out of the way while on the water. They’re a simple yet effective way to hide the cleats when out on the water to prevent snags or toe stubs. We’ve seen these mostly on smaller boats in the 25-foot-and-­under range.

The Slip: The hinges can loosen over time, making it harder for the cleats to stay deployed, but the dock lines will still hold them in place while in use.

Price: $52.99; Buy at West Marine

The post Three Choices for Nonsnag Cleats appeared first on Boating Mag.

Compact, portable and affordable satellite-messaging devices have revolutionized on-water communications by effectively transforming mobile devices into satellite phones. Most, however, are limited to texting, as well as SOS alerts. But the Garmin inReach Messenger Plus adds new capabilities. 

The inReach Messenger Plus is Garmin’s first satellite communicator with photo and voice ­messaging, in addition to global two-way texting, location sharing and SOS capabilities, expanding a boater’s ability to stay in touch when beyond cell service. With a battery life that can last for weeks, the inReach Messenger Plus provides global coverage via the Iridium satellite network. Like the original inReach Messenger, it can be used as a stand-alone device or paired to a compatible smartphone with the Garmin Messenger mobile app.

“Whether you’re fishing offshore or conquering the Great Loop, the best plan is to always be prepared before you leave the dock,” says Dave Dunn, senior director, marine and RV sales for Garmin. “With the Messenger Plus on board, anglers and boaters can feel confident knowing they have robust communication, location-sharing and SOS capabilities, and even send a ­real-time photo of their big catch or a voice message telling loved ones they’ve made it to their next anchorage.”

Read Next: Six Affordable Satellite Communications Devices

Measuring just 2.5-by-3 inches, Messenger Plus is water-rated to IPX7 and can withstand incidental water exposure as deep as 1 meter for up to 30 minutes. In the event of an ­emergency, the Messenger Plus and the ­Messenger app can send an interactive SOS text message to Garmin Response, a 24/7-staffed international emergency assistance coordination center. Photo and voice messages can also be shared during an SOS, giving response coordinators the ability to see and hear details of the emergency firsthand. The device needs a unobstructed view of the sky for effective satellite ­communication.

The inReach Messenger Plus carries an MSRP of $499.99, and it requires an active satellite subscription to communicate, with plans starting at $14.99 per month. To learn more, visit garmin.com/marine.

The post Garmin inReach Messenger Plus appeared first on Boating Mag.

Boat batteries are the heart of it all. Whether used to power accessories or simply to start an engine, not too much happens aboard most powerboats without a battery. In today’s marketplace, boat owners are faced with an array of battery types to choose from. Traditional wet-cell and sealed lead-acid batteries compete with absorbed glass mat batteries and those using one of a few lithium chemistries to store and provide electricity.  

This article compares AGM batteries to lithium batteries to help you know what to look for when buying batteries for your boat.

AGM Defined

Absorbed glass mat batteries are the most advanced type of lead-acid battery. AGM batteries hold a charge longer, can charge faster, and require less maintenance than traditional flooded-cell lead-acid batteries.

Lithium Defined

We are focused on batteries using lithium-­iron-phosphate (LiFePO4) chemistry, not the smaller lithium-­ion batteries found in phones and computers. LiFePO4 batteries can hold much more charge for their weight compared with AGM batteries, and they can utilize that charge down to almost zero percent. The depth of discharge (DoD) of an AGM battery is somewhere between 50 and 80 percent, and they are usually used for starting and deep-cycle applications.

Cost

AGM batteries cost less per amp, or per “battery size,” than lithium batteries. For example, an average current price for a 100-amp-hour LiFePO4 battery is about $700, whereas the same size AGM battery can be purchased for about $400. However, because a LiFePO4 can use more of its charge before needing to be recharged, that comparison is not completely fair. Still, AGM batteries are much less expensive and will start your engines and power your marine accessories, just not for as long or as many amps. High-draw accessories such as trolling motors do make the case for lithium batteries.

Read Next: How to Install a Wireless Marine Battery Monitor

Charging

AGM batteries can be charged by many typical marine battery chargers and marine engine alternators. While AGM batteries definitely benefit from a charging system optimized for their chemistry, even much of the older equipment already in the field is likely to charge AGM batteries. LiFePO4 batteries require a special charging system. Unless you have a new engine or a special alternator installed, most older marine engines won’t charge them. LiFePO4 batteries will charge in about half the time, though, if the proper charging ­system is in place.

Self-Discharge

The rate at which a battery loses charge just sitting in disuse is self-discharge. Old wet-cell batteries may have lost 10 percent of charge per month to self-discharge. AGM batteries self-discharge at about 1 to 3 ­percent per month. Use your boat once a month, at least, and finding a dead battery to self-discharge will be rare to nonexistent. Do note that LifePO4 batteries ­self-discharge at about 0.5 to 3 percent per month, an even slower rate than AGM ­batteries.

Lifespan

Battery life depends a lot on the application and owner care. Two different boaters might get two different lifespans from identical batteries. Lithium batteries, by their nature, should last longer, ­however, and ­deliver about 1,000 ­discharge cycles. New, advanced AGM batteries, such as Odyssey AGM2 batteries from EnerSys, are rated at 400 discharge cycles to 80 ­percent DoD and offer plenty of ­engine-­cranking capacity. When ­shopping, balance ­LiFePo4’s longer lifespan and higher cost against the lower total cost of ownership of AGM batteries.

Weight

AGM batteries weigh more than LifePO4 batteries, but, unless you need a large bank of batteries to power a trolling motor, a powerful audio system, or some other high-draw appliance, the weight difference might be negligible. Many boaters get all their battery needs served by two or three batteries total on the boat. Start getting into four and six (and more!) battery banks, and then the weight difference does become meaningful.

Conclusion

So, will AGM batteries do the job for your style of boating? If you are not running high-amperage accessories such as trolling motors and powerful audio amplifiers for long periods of time, then the answer is yes, AGM batteries will serve you well and at a lower purchase cost versus lithium.

The post AGM vs. Lithium Batteries appeared first on Boating Mag.

A properly installed through-hull transducer can maximize the performance of down-looking sonar in two ways. First, it has direct contact with the water, so there’s no signal loss as you might experience with an in-hull transducer that sends and receives sonar through a layer of fiberglass. Second, a through-hull is less likely to suffer from interference due to aeration unlike a transom-mount transducer that gets bathed in foam as water exits the stern and mixes with air.

Through-hull transducers that mount flush against the hull create little drag and do not interfere with trailer bunks or rollers as a bulky old-school through-hull might. Here are the details on how to install a flush-mount model on a solid fiberglass hull using the Airmar B175HW bronze through-hull transducer, a 1 kW ’ducer that offers a 25-degree beam and a CHIRP frequency band of 150 to 250 kHz, used with a Lowrance HDS-12 Gen3 sonar. If you keep your boat in the water, you will need to haul it for this project.

Getting Started

Skill Level: 3.5/5

Time to Complete: 5 Hours

Tools and Supplies

• Airmar B175HW transducer
• Angle finder
• Electric drill with 1/2-inch chuck
• 1/8-inch drill bit
• 3 3/4-inch hole saw
• Rat-tail file or rotary grinder (some installations)
• Miter saw
• 600-grit sandpaper
• Denatured alcohol
• Marine sealant for use below the waterline (such as 3M 4000)
• Slip-joint pliers
• 3/16-inch Allen wrench
• Dust mask and safety goggles
• Shop rags (to clean up sealant around transducer face)

Choose the Location

Look for a flat location as far aft and as close to the centerline as possible that allows enough room on the outside for the transducer face (5.26 inches in diameter in this case). Avoid areas directly abaft strakes, through-hull pickups or struts that might cause aerated water to flow across the face of the transducer. The face should not rest on a trailer bunk. Check inside the hull to ensure the area is clear of items, like stringers and bulkheads. On a step-hull, pick a spot just forward of the first step.

Select the Angle

Use a bevel gauge to confirm the angle of the V-hull at the mounting location, then choose the transducer tilt angle that most closely matches so that the sonar beam is transmitting as vertically as possible. The Airmar B175HW, for example, is available in three angles: zero tilt (for zero- to 7-degree deadrise), 12-degree tilt (for 8- to 15-degree V-hulls) and 20-degree tilt (for 16 to 24 degrees). Our V-hull has 22 degrees of deadrise, so we chose the 20-degree-tilt version.

Cut the Hole

From inside the hull, use the mounting nut to test for clearance space, then mark the center point and drill a 1/8-inch pilot hole through the hull. Utilizing the pilot hole as a guide, use a 3 3/4-inch hole saw to cut a hole from the outside perpendicular to the hull surface. It might be necessary to enlarge the hole slightly using a grinder or rat-tail file. Lightly sand around the hole, inside and out, to ensure the sealant will adhere properly. Clean both surfaces with denatured alcohol.

Sealant Savvy

Prior to installing, apply a 1/8-inch layer of marine sealant, such as 3M 4000, to the flange, sidewall and stem threads so that the sealant extends 1/8 inch higher than the combined thickness of the hull, spacer and nut. Also apply a 1/8-inch layer of sealant to the inside surface of the spacer.

Fit the Spacer

With the transducer in position (ask someone to hold it firmly against the outside of the hull), slide one of the washers over the cable and the stem, followed by the spacer and second washer. There should be at least three threads showing above the second washer without the nut. If not, shorten the spacer by cutting the open end squarely with a miter saw. Dry fit again to ensure the space is the appropriate height, and then remove the transducer.

Install the Transducer

After applying sealant, reinsert the transducer stem from under the boat. From inside, rotate the stem so that the arrow on top points perpendicular to the centerline to align the beam angle. Slide on a washer, the spacer (open side down), the second washer and the nut. Tighten the nut with slip-joint pliers, then apply sealant to the set screws on the nut and tighten until each makes contact with the threads; continue to tighten one-quarter turn. Clean up any excess sealant.

Specialty Wrenches

While we suggest large slip-lock pliers for installing the B175HW, Airmar Technology Corp. makes two special wrenches for doing this. One is the 175WR-4 to hold the transducer stem in position while you tighten the 4 1/2-inch-wide transducer nut with an Airmar 164WR-3 wrench. While you might only use them once, the precise fit and shorter handles make these tools easier to use than slip-lock pliers in the cramped confines of a bilge compartment.

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