The definition of seamanship is apparently a matter of contention among some boaters, including other marine journalists not working for this publication. I will settle the matter right now: To practice seamanship means, in part, to practice good preparation. Seamanship is not limited to acts of high adventure on stormy seas.

Now that that’s resolved, let’s examine why boaters who winterize—or who store their boats otherwise—for months at a time should develop a routine for that first run of the season.

First, I never met a boat that wasn’t a work in progress. There’s always one or more tasks that need to be done or that are not 100 percent completed and one or more items that have failed or are about to fail. It’s the nature of the beast. Break out those Benjamins. Some of these tasks might be aesthetic and some might be critical. Along that spectrum, first-run boaters should make a checklist prioritizing critical items and working toward aesthetic.

Here’s my main point: Things that were in process or top of mind before you laid up the boat have had time to sink into the mire of disuse and distraction. Other things take up space in our brains. The holidays, house projects that got delayed while you were boating, plus the simple passage of time can all push boating tasks and repairs beyond recollection. So, make a list.

Start with safety: Check your flares for sufficient number and type as well as for expiration dates. Check your life jackets by pulling on the straps and ­tugging at the buckles, rearming the ­inflation mechanism, and noting whether any of your regular crew have grown over the winter and so now need a new size. Does the horn work? Do the nav lights work? Does your EPIRB, PLB or other beacon need a battery? Perform a self-test on these per the manufacturer’s procedure.

Other accessories that I’d give ­priority to include the VHF ­radio. Make sure it works by ­either requesting a radio check, radio-checking yourself with a handheld VHF, or by installing an inline wattmeter on the antenna cable (these come ready to go for easy installation).

Checking the bilge pump probably works as well in the safety paragraph, but I needed a good transition. Reach into the bilge and raise the pump’s float switch, and also check for manual operation by flipping the switch at the helm. What about livewell and washdown pumps? Better to find out before you launch, so check ’em out now.

Read Next: Six Tools for Spring Make-Ready

Let’s not forget propulsion. More than one boater shows up for spring launch with an ­engine that won’t start. Or won’t shift. Or otherwise doesn’t run right. ­Connect a hose, and fire off the engines in the yard or on the trailer. Shift gears. Check the alternator output, oil pressure and fluid levels before you head out for your first run.

This list is not intended to be complete for every boat. Nor is it an indictment of every boater. Instead, I’m hoping to provide you with a head start. I want to prompt you to think about your first run before you make it. Much of good seamanship is mindset and routine.

And don’t forget your drain plug. 

The post The Importance of a Spring Launch Checklist appeared first on Boating Mag.

We applied Pettit Trinidad XSR to the bottom of one of our boats in order to test it. After seven months stored in a saltwater creek thriving with marine plant and animal life, we can say the results were great and we can recommend Pettit XSR.

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Of course, just who would we recommend Pettit XSR to? Most antifouling coatings can provide at least moderate protection for some boaters, but may fall well short of expectations for other boaters. The reason for that seeming incongruity is that the effectiveness of an antifouling coating is dependent upon many factors. Obvious are things such as the exact location, the condition of the water, and the speed of the boat. Less obvious are things that include whether the boat will be hauled and re-launched (some paints lose effectiveness after hauling out) and how much sunlight the hull receives (sunlight exacerbates plant growth). Do you beach the boat at a sandbar? If so, an “effective” ablative paint, which can easily rub off,  recommended by your buddy who never beaches his boat, might not work as well for you. And, so on.

So, what kind of boater can we recommend Pettit XSR for? Consider these attributes and apply them to your boating style.

Trinidad XSR is a hard bottom paint, meaning the protection isn’t dependent upon the coating wearing away. That makes it good for those who beach their boats, haul out their boats or need to scrub the waterline due to scum accumulation.

Trinidad XSR is warranted to provide 24 months of protection when in the water. This makes it a great choice for boaters who do not haul annually, such as liveaboards and cruisers.

Trinidad XSR uses a triple biocide formula (Econea, ZPT and Copper Thyocyanate) that allows the use of less copper… a heavy metal. That makes it more appealing to boaters seeking a more environmentally-friendly than other paints with a higher copper content.

Trinidad XSR can be hauled out and remain active. This gives boaters who alternate between land storage and wet storage more options. If it’s been out for 2-3 years and looks dull, scuff it to re-activate it. After just winter, if the product still looks great, launch! If it’s been out of the water for 5 years, go ahead and put on a fresh coat.

Trinidad XSR’s efficacy is not dependent upon boat use. Its triple-biocide, extreme protection formula is just as effective at the dock as it is underway. So boaters who just can’t get out that much would benefit from Trinidad XSR.

Trinidad XSR can be used on underwater metals, including aluminum. That makes it great for owner’s aluminum boat hulls, as well as wood or fiberglass boat owners needing protection for drives, trim tabs and more.

Who might not choose Trinidad XSR?

Trinidad XSR is more expensive—not than “comparable” paints—but is in the realm of higher-performing, higher- priced anti-fouling coatings. Therefore, boaters looking to spend less as a primary consideration, may choose another paint…including other Pettit paints…and get different performance in exchange for the different price.

Trinidad’s XSR’s triple biocide formula makes it absolutely imperative that it is mixed properly prior to use. Our gallon was well-clotted, and required being placed on a shaker at a hardware store two days before use. We then subsequently mixed with a drill motor mixer on the day of application. (A complete mix can be accomplished without shaking—read the label) So, boaters not willing to adhere to a strict set of application and prep guidelines might choose a different paint.

Pettit Trinidad XSR covers 435 square-feet per gallon, applied as we did, using a low-nap (3/8”) roller. It can be launched after It comes in four colors (black, red, blue and green). As of May 2024, at Jamestown Distributors it retails for $411 per gallon.

For complete details, product application instructions and more, visit: pettitpaint.com.

Read Next: Can you renew dull, weathered vinyl upholstery? See our test of Pettit Fabricoat.

The post We Test: Pettit Trinidad XSR appeared first on Boating Mag.

I’ve always applied antifouling paint to the transducers installed on my Regulator, Breakaway. Doing so ensures the output and return signals deliver better performance instead of being reduced by barnacles, grass or other growth on the ‘ducer. Twice, I’ve neglected to coat a transducer, I regretted it, as performance waned. Typically, I have used the same aerosol antifouling coating that I use to protect my outboard’s mounting bracket and my trim tabs. This worked fine.

Last year, I applied Foulfree by Propspeed to a new transducer I was installing aboard Breakaway. Foulfree is a foul-release, as opposed to anti-fouling coating. It contains no toxic biocides. Instead, it creates a surface so slippery that critters and plants get washed off as the boat is underway. This same technology has been successfully applied with Propspeed’s Propspeed coating, for propellers. In any event, a biocide-free coating sounds like a good idea to me. If it would provide solid protection.

To test Foulfree, I applied it to the one transducer. For comparison, I applied Interlux Trilux 33 aerosol to other transducers on the boat. The boat was then launched and stored in the water for six months in the Northeast United States. At haul out, in the fall, both transducers were equally clean.

The difference? Foulfree required additional prep and effort versus the Trilux. Of course, Foulfree contains no poisonous biocides. Points for the environment and personal safety in application. Additionally, Foulfree is certified by Airmar, world renown maker of transducers for most major brands of depth and fishfinders, to not impair transducer performance. I do not know if the Trilux 33 affected my transducer’s performance, though I have been historically-satisfied with transducer performance using that coating, or one like it.

Propspeed Foulfree comes in a kit that includes everything you need to cover about 1 square foot of transducer surface. That translates to coverage for between two and maybe four transducers. $35.99, freeportmarine.com.

Applying Foulfree

Applying Foulfree takes three basic steps. Clean the surface, prep the surface, apply Foulfree. Most of what you need is in the kit. You will need to supply some gear of your own:

• Disposable gloves
• Eye protection
• Mask
• Clean, dry rag
• Tape
• Fairing blocks only – 40 grit sandpaper (This means DO NOT sand the transducer face! Only sand plastic fairing blocks on through-hull transducers!)

For Existing Transducers

I applied Foulfree to a new transducer. If you are applying to a transducer with growth or dirt on it, follow these steps, reprinted from Foulfree, which is what I did.

Remove fouling and/or any previous coatings from the transducer housing and face with the abrasive pad provided.

In case of heavy fouling, scrape transducer face with a metal putty knife without gouging the surface. Drag the putty knife across the transducer face at a perpendicular angle and follow with a wet sanding block. Never use a power sander or pressure washer on the face of the transducer.

Take care not to scratch or damage the transducer face.

Read Next: Mounting an In-Hull Transducer on a Boat

New or Clean Transducers

1. Abrasive Pad

Firstly, lightly scuff/abrade plastic housing and face of the transducer.  Do not scour or deeply scratch the face of the transducer.

After abrading the transducer, tape off any areas you do not wish to coat with the Foulfree Transducer Coating.

2. Initial Clean Using XD Clean

Clean the surface to be coated with our specialised cleaning wipe. XDclean is transducer safe and ensures a contaminant-free surface for the Foulfree coating.

Immediately remove any residue with a clean, dry rag. Ensure the surface is 100% clean and dry before proceeding. 

Application Tips

• Use a clean and dry rag to remove any residue  
• Ensure the surface is 100-percent clean and dry before proceeding 

3. Conditioning

Apply XDprime generously using the provided wipe. Once applied, allow 10 minutes to dry. XDprime will look wet when first applied and will leave a white cast when dry. The surface is now ready for coating with Foulfree.

Application Tips

• Allow 10 minutes to dry before applying Foulfree
• XDprime will turn white once dry

4. Application

A small, high quality brush is included to provide the best result.

Pierce the seal of the tube using the lid. Squeeze a small amount of the Foulfree coating directly on to the brush.

Apply a thin layer of the coating on to the transducer. The ideal thickness is between 50 and 100 microns. Make sure there are no heavy runs or sags. You will have 5 to 10 minutes to touch these up.

Application Tips

• Use the provided brush to apply Foulfree
• Make sure there are no heavy runs or sags

Drying Time/Launching

Foulfree requires a minimum of 8 hours to dry before launching. In colder conditions, 40–60°F / 5-13°C, wait at least 24 hours before launching.

Foulfree can sit out of water for extended periods of time in warm or cold climates with no adverse effects.

The post We Test: Foulfree by Propspeed appeared first on Boating Mag.

Spring comes with a variety of jobs for do-it-yourself boat owners. Some are expected, such as waxing the hull or painting the bottom. Others crop up as a surprise over the winter, no matter how well you put your baby to bed the previous winter. While you’ll certainly use more tools than the ones listed here in making your boat ready this spring, consider this list the “common core” of your commissioning kit.

Paint Roller

I like to roll on bottom paint. Select a low-nap (¼-inch) roller. A heavy-nap ­roller lays on too thick of a coat. Select a fabric roller because foam paint ­rollers often disintegrate when subjected to the solvents in ­antifouling paints. A ­good-quality roller frame will have a handle with internal threads, so you can attach a screw-on pole or mop handle, saving a lot of reaching.

Buffing Machine

Wax can be applied by hand. Experienced boaters prefer a buffing machine. For most boaters, one of the dual-­action oscillating types is ­probably best. The pad of these—the part that applies and removes the wax—moves in an eccentric ­motion rather than simply rotating. This helps prevent marring the finish of your boat, which can happen with rotary polishers. Though, if you are experienced with disc sanders, a rotary polisher is handled similarly and will get the job done faster.

Screwdriver

Phillips head screws and bolts will be the most common type you will find aboard a modern fiberglass boat. About the only place I see slotted fasteners anymore are on hose clamps and on the gear-case drain plugs of some outboards. (And those are now few and far between.) Have a selection of sizes handy for everything from tightening hatch hinges to adding an electrical ­connection to a bus bar.

Filter Wrench

Outboard, ­inboard or sterndrive, you will need to change filters. These may be primary or secondary fuel filters, water separators or oil filters. I have a strap wrench set with rubber straps, in two different sizes, which handles most filters that I ­encounter. Some tough-to-access filters may better be served by a filter wrench designed specifically for that filter. These usually attach to a ­ratcheting-wrench handle.

Read Next: 38 Top Make-Ready Tips for the Spring Boating Season

Nut Driver

A nut driver is like a screwdriver but with a socket-­wrench tip. They can be solid—that is, the socket is fixed to the shaft of the handle. Or they can be removable, snapping onto or sliding into a special handle. In any event, this is the tool you’ll want for working by feel, at the end of your reach in the depths of the bilge or engine room, for tightening a hose clamp.

Electrical Crimpers

Perhaps you decided to install a new stereo, light or fish finder. Or maybe you checked your bilge-pump switch prior to launch and found that it did not work. Whatever the reason, electrical repair or new installation is a common spring task for boaters. Make sure you have a terminal-connection crimper handy. I like a ratcheting crimper. Make sure it can crimp over a range of 10- to 22-gauge stranded wire. (Learn how to create proper terminal crimps in this article.)

The post Six Tools for Spring Make-Ready appeared first on Boating Mag.

It’s that time of year again: Time to get the cover off the boat and get ready for summer fun on the water. If you are anything like me, you need a launch list to check off as you get the required tasks done and out of the way. I break down my list into five categories. Let’s take a look and make sure you have your vessel ready from top to bottom for the start of the new boating season.

Clean It

I always start at the scum line with an application of Marykate On & Off Hull and Bottom Cleaner to scour the hull bottom before applying any antifouling paint. Be careful: This stuff is hydrochloric-acid-based. Safety glasses and disposable gloves are important here. Paint it on with a disposable brush and rinse thoroughly with fresh water. Shop now

Paint It

Next, I mask off the waterline and apply a fresh coat of ablative multiseason, water-based antifouling paint. If you are switching to this type of paint from something else, be sure to check for compatibility with your paint manufacturer. Because my boat is on a trailer, I’ll jack it up off the trailer with a small hydraulic jack, block it, and paint the entire bottom in sections. (Water-based paint ensures easy cleanup.)

Wax It

I struggled for years with a power buffer and traditional wax application on my boat’s dark-blue hull — but no more. About three years ago, I switched to a spray-on ceramic finish after paying a professional detailer to give the hull a final power buffing. I can’t believe how great my 10-year-old hull looks. No more carnauba wax for my boat — it’s ceramic coating all day.

Oils and Filters

I’m going to assume you did the right thing and changed your engine oil and filter as well as your lower-unit oil before your boat was decommissioned for winter. If not, change your ways and do it now. This should always be done before extended layup.

You should have a water-separating fuel filter in your system. It needs to be replaced each season, and keep a spare on board—you never know when you’re going to pick up water when refueling. Shop now

Impeller Action

Every three years or 300 hours of engine operation, your water-pump impeller should be replaced. Also, look carefully at the bonding wires—the small stainless-steel, uninsulated wires connecting articulating parts on your engine. These have a habit of breaking and should be replaced if this occurs. These wires are important to minimize engine corrosion.

Anode Action

Check all the sacrificial anodes on your engine(s) and mounting bracket, and replace those that have lost half their mass. Shop now

Hose Health

It’s important to give things like fuel hoses and primer bulbs a close inspection. Any cracks or chafe points dictate immediate replacement.

Fit and Trim

Make sure all the grease fittings on the engine and tilt mechanism get a shot of fresh grease. Finally, apply that same ceramic coating you used on the hull to help keep that engine paint looking like new.

Battery Maintenance

Depending upon the size of your boat, you’ll have at least one battery, and probably more than one. These need to be clean and secured in the boat to eliminate any movement. If they are of the serviceable variety, the electrolyte level needs to be checked and topped up as needed. Most new batteries today are of the sealed or semi-sealed variety, and you can’t add fluid. In fact, removal of the caps can ruin the battery. Again, make sure the top of the battery is clean and dry. Oily, dust-laden deposits attract moisture, which can cause low-level electrical leaks from the positive post to the negative. Clean and dry is the order of the day. Make sure the battery clamps are tight and corrosion-free. Incidentally, if your battery cables are held on with wing nuts, they are no longer compliant with industry standards because they can loosen too easily. Replace these terminal connections with locking nuts. Shop now

Electrical System Checks

Ensure that all the electrical devices on board are working as they should. Check things like fuse panels and exposed electrical connections, looking for any sign of corrosion or loose connections. Any corrosion needs to be cleaned, and a small wire brush can do the job easily. I like to give fuse holders and terminal strips a light spray of Boeshield T-9 to help keep corrosion at bay. CRC and others offer corrosion inhibitors if you can’t find Boeshield T-9. As for loose connections, tighten any held with a hex nut, and any push-on terminals might need replacement. Make sure you use proper crimping pliers and the right-size terminal for the wire gauge in question. Shop now

Have any lights out? Check the bulbs, and get them replaced as needed.

Electronic Equipment Checks

Now is the time to check for any software or firmware updates to your equipment and install as needed. Make sure the software for your multifunction display, electronic charting and other equipment is the latest available and update if not. This can be confirmed with a visit to the manufacturers’ websites.

Transducers

If your fish-finder transducer is transom-mounted, make sure it aims straight down; these are typically designed to articulate to accommodate different mounting angles. Also, make sure there is no barnacle or other sea growth on the transducer’s surface. Transducer antifoulant is available at West Marine and should be used, especially if your boat stays in the water all season. Shop now

I use Pettit transducer paint, which is also good for use on stainless-steel trim tabs and the submerged part of my outboard engine trim and mounting bracket. Propspeed Foulfree also makes a good transducer coating system.

Radio Check

Double-check the coaxial cable antenna connection to your VHF radio, and make sure you have a clean and tight, corrosion-free hookup. Perform a radio check, and don’t use Channel 16! Channel 9 will do nicely here and won’t clutter the emergency channel. Shop now

Antennas

If you have already checked all your electrical-system connections, then you have confirmed good power and ground connections for your equipment. Do the same for any GPS antenna connections.

Canvas Snaps, Zippers and Tie-Downs

Get some Star brite snap-and-zipper lubricant, and use it to help with those stubborn snaps that resist coming undone just a little too much at times. It also keeps zippers running smoothly. Are the clear vinyl windows in your canvas getting a bit hard to see through? Get some Flitz plastic polish and a Flitz BuffBall. Use as directed to get things cleared up. Shop now

Upholstery Service and Care

Vinyl upholstery on boats lives a tough life. UV exposure will eventually attack and destroy it. I use 3M Vinyl Conditioner & Protector monthly as part of a routine maintenance schedule for the vinyl on my boat. So far, so good. I get a lot of compliments on how great the seats and cushions look.

Exterior Wood

Wood types and amounts vary considerably from one boat to another. The only wood on my boat, for example, is a beautiful Edson wood-rimmed steering wheel. As with vinyl, it lives in the sun, and UV rays will eventually get to it. I lightly sand and varnish it every two seasons to keep it looking like new. Obviously, this will vary quite a bit between boats, but keeping your exterior wood looking first-class is an important maintenance item.

Read Next: More Spring Make-Ready Tips

Simple Safety

If you ever get stopped by the US Coast Guard for a routine safety inspection, you need to make sure your flares are not out of date and you have approved life jackets on board for everyone in your party. If you are like me, you probably carry inflatable life jackets. Make sure the inflation cartridges are still in the green; if not, they’ll need replacement. Also, be advised that these jackets come in different sizes. Young children won’t do well in an adult-size life jacket. Because the flare dating is something I typically forget, I switched to one of the new Coast Guard-approved electronic flare sets last season. Remember, these are battery-powered, so make sure the batteries are up to snuff each season. Shop flares. Shop Life jackets.

Make sure you have the required number of fire extinguishers on board and that their charge gauges are in the green. Also, US Coast Guard regulations require a “sound-producing device,” such as a handheld air horn or athletic whistle. Although not mandatory, I also recommend having a first-aid kit to take care of minor injuries. Shop fire extinguishers. Shop air horns. Shop first aid kit.

Once you’ve completed your spring commissioning checklist, it might be tempting to head straight to the launch ramp and take off on an all-day nautical adventure. Before you do that, take a pre-trip — aka shakedown trip — to make sure everything is OK on the water before going on a real boat outing.

Make a plan to launch your boat and check for leaks or any issues, then give it a short test run to make sure all your hard work paid off and the vessel is ready for boating season.

Prepare to Launch

Ready to kick the boating season off in style with a smooth, hassle-free launch? With these 38 tips, you’ll be fully prepared when it’s time to get your boat in the water alongside your family and friends. Enjoy the peace of mind that comes with knowing your vessel is ship-shape and set for fun and adventure.

The post 38 Top Make-Ready Tips for the Spring Boating Season appeared first on Boating Mag.

Even small amounts of spray—especially salt spray—can corrode the plugs and receptacles of marine electronics. As part of your spring make-ready routine, inspect and service these critical connections. Here are some key attention points.

Corrosion Check

Before you reinstall your marine electronics for the season ahead, peer inside each of them with the plugs and receptacles still disconnected, perhaps using a magnifying glass to check for any corrosion on the pins and receivers. To clean them up, turn off all power and use a small pen knife to carefully scrape away corrosion.

Fray Not

Meticulously inspect the insulation around the wires and cables serving your marine electronics. Look for frays or cuts that might impede conductivity, allow for corrosion, or interfere with the supply of electrical power or digital data. Replace any wires or cables that appear suspect.

Stay Tight

As you reinstall your electronics, make sure the plugs are firmly seated in their ports and the twist-and-lock collars are tightened securely. Vibration and rough seas can cause these connectors to work loose, so check them periodically for tightness, especially if your electronics shut down unexpectedly in rough seas.

Inhibiting Spray

With everything plugged in, give the connector housings a light spritz of a corrosion-inhibiting spray, such as CRC Marine Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor, to help repel any water that might find its way to the back of your electronics.

The post How to Check the Connectors on Your Marine Electronics Installation appeared first on Boating Mag.

Getting your boat ready for another season of use is one of the joys of ownership. Seriously, it is—as long as you think of it positively. It’s not the end of another season; it’s the beginning of a new one. The possibilities for new boating adventures seem endless, and making sure your boat is ready for all the fun is a great responsibility. Even if you’re religious about winterizing, there’s still lots to be done to ensure trouble-free outings—not to mention taking advantage of potential upgrades. On the other side, if your winterizing regimen leaves a lot to be desired, now’s the time to correct all of last fall’s mistakes.

It’s easier to tackle the project if you divvy it up by systems—steering, fuel, engine, drive, cooling, etc. It’ll go faster this way, and there’s less chance to forget something important. There’s also cleaning and polishing to finish off after the systems’ checkups are complete. Ready to start? Here we go.

Uncover It

For those who have covered up the boat over the winter months:

• Check for bees’ nests and other potential dangers (skunks, snakes, cats, etc.) before pulling off the cover. Even though your visual inspection may not have revealed critters, take a second look for bees’ or wasps’ nests—sometimes they build almost undetectable nests in near-impossible locations. These will cause problems on the water; for example, they can affect the overboard telltale water indicator on an outboard, the water intakes, or the fuel-tank vent outlet. If you find any of these mud dauber nests, clear them out completely before going boating.
• Before the cleanup commences, it’s best to go through the rig and engine, looking for problems. Check for the obvious—broken windshield frames, moldy seats and carpet, rusted fittings, rodent droppings, and snow and wind damage are just a few things you might find. Make a list of what needs attention, and tackle the problems one at a time.
• If you must dispose of a temporary winter cover (shrink-wrap), please do so responsibly. (Note: Careful removal can enable the reuse of shrink-wrap, if you have a place to store it.)

Fuel-System Finds

The engine can’t run if it can’t get fuel. Fuel-system inspection and maintenance has never been more important thanks to the havoc that ethanol-blended gasoline can wreak on fuel lines, filters and components.

• If the fuel lines are older than three years, they should be replaced with new EPA-compliant, Coast Guard-approved hose and new clamps. The innards of older fuel hoses are highly susceptible to alcohol deterioration; if left unchecked, this can cause clogging, poor running and even engine failure.
• Check the primer bulb, if your rig has one; these can be damaged by ethanol blends too.
• The fuel filter should be replaced as well. If your rig doesn’t have a water-separating fuel filter, now is a good time to add one.
• Finally, check the tank carefully for leaks, cracks and loose mounts.

Charge It: Batteries and Electrical Systems

The batteries should be charged and checked to ensure they’ll hold a charge.

• The terminals and cable ends should be cleaned and checked for tightness.
• A visual once-over to ensure the batteries are secured and can’t tip over is good practice.
• Lights, horn, gauges, wiper, trim tabs and all other accessories should be checked for proper operation and repaired if necessary. Over time, and especially in saltwater environments, the wiring and switches can become corroded and fail.

Engine Hours

Whatever your power choice (outboards, two-stroke or four-stroke, sterndrives, inboards, personal watercraft, etc.), it must be checked over carefully before the first outing of the season.

• Inboards and sterndrives: Block water plugs (aka freeze plugs) must be replaced in their proper locations before running the engine. Belts and hoses should be checked for tightness and cracks. If it wasn’t changed in the fall, the engine oil and filter should be changed now. (Don’t forget to change it next fall.)
• All engines should be connected to a water source (preferably in the water, but if that’s not possible, at least with a flush muff or similar device), started, and allowed to run long enough to reach operating temperature while running at idle.
• Check for proper cooling (the telltale or water out the exhaust) and water leaks.
• All fittings (tilt tube, swivel bracket, hood latches, etc.) should be greased.
• The gear case should be checked for damage, along with the propeller and propeller shaft. If it wasn’t done in the fall, the gear-case lube should be drained, checked for contamination (milky equals water ingestion and seal failure; dark and stinky equals potential gear and bearing damage), and refilled with fresh lubricant. The skeg should be checked and repaired if bent or damaged. Check water intakes for blockage.
• Any corrosion should be sanded down, prepped and repainted. Sacrificial anodes should be checked and replaced if they’re significantly eroded.
• The entire engine should be given a coat of wax to protect it from the water and sun.
• Engine wiring and the electrical system should be checked and cleaned, especially if corroded.

Steering & Controls

Steering and shift-and-throttle controls are critical to driving the boat. But also think about this: Not checking and maintaining them could make you liable in an accident. Therefore, they should be your first priority.

• For cable steering systems, ensure they work smoothly, operate properly, and are lubricated with marine-grade grease.
• Hydraulic steering systems should be properly bled to purge any air bubbles, and checked to ensure they work properly. No skips, binding or excess steering-wheel movement can be allowed.
• The engine steering arm, steering link, and fastening bolts and nuts must be checked for integrity, corrosion and tightness.
• The shift and throttle should be checked with the engine running on a flusher, or while in the water tied to the dock. Make sure the engine shifts into forward and reverse from neutral and back again with no binding or excessive movement of the shifter lever, and the propeller stops rotating when the engine is shifted to neutral.

All Systems Go?

It’s not always just about the boat and the onboard equipment. Getting ready for the season ahead also involves inspection of items that you carry on the boat, including watersports equipment and safety gear, as well as paperwork.

• Check all systems, including plumbing, coolers, bait and fish wells, the shower and head, and galley components. Check carefully for loose or cracked hoses and fittings, especially through-hull fittings and drains.
• Check all accessories and toys, such as skis, tubes, vests, towropes, etc.
• Check all safety items—life jackets, lines, anchors, flags, emergency systems, first-aid kits, flares, etc. Now is also a good time to request a vessel safety check from the US Coast Guard Auxiliary or Power Squadrons.
• Certainly not least: Check to make sure you have the current license, registration, permits and insurance, not to mention towing insurance from a service such as TowBoatUS or Sea Tow.

Trailer Troubles

If you’re a trailer boater, you must do a complete trailer check. You’ve seen one of those stranded boaters along the roadside, waiting for a flatbed—don’t be that guy. Here’s where to check:

• Frame: Check for integrity, excessive corrosion (rust-through) and overall appearance.
• Running gear (axle, springs, attachments, bearings and seals, wheels and tires): Check all and replace any suspect items. Check axle and springs carefully for corrosion, sagging or rust-through. Look at the wear pattern on the tires; this gives a good indication of axle and spring condition. Check to ensure fenders are not loose, rusted through, or ready to come off during travel.
• Hull support (bunks, rollers, guides, stanchions): Check for rot, worn carpet, broken bolts, etc. Hull damage can easily occur while towing due to bunk or roller problems that went undetected.
• Check the winch, stand, winch strap and cable, tie downs and emergency chain. All of these secure your boat to the trailer during transport and are vital safety items.
• The coupler, tongue and safety chains are also critical safety items because they connect your rig to the tow vehicle. Check them carefully and replace any suspect parts.
• Lights and wiring: Ensure all functions work, and repair or replace any lights (or even the entire wiring harness) if necessary. Lights and wiring harnesses are inexpensive and easy to service.
• License, registration and insurance: Again, last but certainly not least, verify these are up to date. You don’t want a ticket for any reason on your trip to the water.

Hull Inspection

A thorough hull and deck inspection is best conducted on land before launching the boat for the season.

• Check the topsides for cracks, a loose rub rail and cleats, and a damaged windshield or frame.
• Bottom paint should be checked and reapplied if it’s showing age.
• Climb under the trailer and inspect every inch of the hull. You might be surprised at what you find. Nicks, chips and dings (especially those through the gelcoat and into the fiberglass) should be repaired before the season starts. Gelcoat blistering should be repaired.
• On aluminum hulls, check for cracks, missing and loose rivets, and broken welds.
• Check the hull’s integrity, including inspecting the hull, stringers, deck and transom for moisture.
• Examine the gelcoat and finish, and consider having the boat detailed.

Read Next: Our online guide to everything your need for fitting-out your boat in Spring!

So, you made it through this entire checklist, made the necessary repairs, and your boat and trailer are ready to go. It’s time to head down to the local boat ramp and prepare to launch. Don’t forget the drain plug and the life jackets. Also, make sure you clip on the kill switch. Tie your boat up at the launch ramp dock, and fire it up while you’re still tied off. Turn on your electronics too. If all is good to go, get out on the water and enjoy. It’s why we all do this in the first place.

The post Forty-Three Boating Tips for Spring Commissioning appeared first on Boating Mag.

Maintenance remains the key to a better-running engine and longer engine life. While there’s more to know than any one article can include, make these recommended checks of the following five systems.

For expert advice, we checked in with Volvo Penta’s service training center manager Ed Szilagyi, Mercury MerCruiser dealer service expert Rob Gina of Boatwrench in Longwood, Florida, and other marine pros.

1. Fluids

Engine oil should be a clean, amber or gold color. Black oil indicates old and dirty oil; change it. If the oil looks milky or frothy, it’s contaminated by water — bring the engine in for service.

Check power-trim fluid levels. Inspect trim-pump reservoir caps for the milk-carton-like seal under the cap. Discard this; it inhibits venting and may lead to leaks.

Remove the lower gear-case drain screw and check the condition of the lubricant. It should be clean, amber- or green-colored, and not dirty or contaminated by water. Burnt lube means improper gear lash and impending failure; milky means water is leaking through a seal, which leads to rusted gears, shafts and bearings.

Don’t forget to inspect engine coolant and power and hydraulic-steering fluid levels.

2. Cooling

Run the engine on a hose adapter or at the dock to ensure proper ­cooling-system operation before you go.

When the engine is cool, check water hoses for age, brittleness and dry rot. Hoses should be pliant yet firm, not mushy.

3. Drives and Props

Check the propeller shaft for straightness by standing directly behind it and rotating the propeller, watching for out-of-true rotation. Bring bent props to a prop shop. Check for fishing line snarled around the shaft where it enters the gear case. This common malady causes seal leakage, allowing water in, gear lube out, or both.

Check for damage to the skeg. Repair and paint damaged areas.

4. Belts

Press between pulleys; belts should spring back. Look for cracks, brittleness and dry rot, and abnormal wear. Look for thin areas.

Rusty, pitted pulleys often indicate an engine water leak. Belt-dust residue also indicates damaged pulleys.

5. Steering

Steer from lock to lock. Check cables for binding or stiffness. Clean crud from steering rams.

Check hydraulic steering for air pockets, sponginess and/or erratic operation. Repair steering woes immediately, before using your boat.

How To Bleed Hydraulic Steering

6. Fuel Systems

Avoid ethanol fuels if possible. While it’s typically more expensive to do so, fueling up at the marina where non-ethanol fuels are readily available may save money in the long run.

If you leave your boat idle for extensive time periods (more than 60 days), add stabilizer to your fuel supply and run the engine at least 10 minutes to distribute the treated fuel throughout the system (fuel lines, filters and injectors or carburetors).

Tip: Be sure to use enough fuel conditioner! If in doubt, double the recommended dosage. Too much doesn’t hurt anything, but not enough won’t do the job.

7. Anode

Anodes protect your drive from corrosion and deterioration. Here’s what to check: Make sure your engine and drive have the correct anode for your use — magnesium for fresh water, zinc for brackish and salt water. If you’re not sure, bring your rig to your dealer.

Replace any anodes that are less than two-thirds their original size. Do not paint over anodes; this inhibits them from doing their job. Be sure to check your owner’s manual for the location of all anodes. While some are visible and easily accessible, some may be located internally and thus overlooked. For example, Volvo closed-cooling engines have anodes in the heat exchangers.

How To Choose The Right Anode

8. Charging System

It’s not a bad idea to keep a marine smart charger connected and plugged in whenever you’re not using your boat.

Keep the terminals and cable ends clean and free of corrosion. Clean with baking soda or Coke and a wire brush. Don’t use wing nuts on the terminals; nyloc nuts will ensure that cable ends stay tight.

Keep the battery cables and wires out of water and damp places. Since they’re covered in plastic sheathing, it’s tough to see if they’re corroded inside until it’s too late and your engine won’t start. Be sure all wires are marine-grade tinned copper.

9. Hoses

Check all water hoses and clamps for tightness, age, brittleness and dry rot. Ensure there are no leaks and that hose clamps fit tightly without causing damage to hoses. It’s a good idea to keep extra clamps, hose-repair kits/extra hoses in your onboard tools and parts kit.

10. Offseason Storage Prep and Spring Make-Ready

A. Follow the owner’s manual carefully for winterization and spring make-ready preparations.
B. Ensure that all engine coolant has drained or is properly treated with environmentally friendly (RV pink) antifreeze.
C. Ensure that all fuel has been properly treated with stabilizer and the treated fuel has been run through the engine.
D. Check the drive and propeller for damage and repair before the offseason so damage is not left until spring.
E. Drain and refill the drive unit; check for water-contaminated or burnt gear lube and repair any leaks before winter.
F. Never store the boat with the drives up; rainwater can collect in prop hubs and in the gear case, and if left there in freezing conditions, it can expand and crack the housing.
G. Spray the entire engine with a light coating of metal/electrical-connection protectant.

The post Five Inboard and Sterndrive Engine Checks appeared first on Boating Mag.

For weeks, the sky can resemble a dirty felt blanket draped to the treetops. The snow that sparkled the landscape in January melts into chisel-plowed fields and hardens into an ugly-gray salty crust along the curbs and ditches. If it snows in March, it will be wet and heavy and sag the blue shrink-wrap on your boat. A bone-chilling rain is just as likely.

The 31 days of the third month are especially hard on habitués of the Lake View Inn. State regulation mandates the removal of ice-fishing shanties from the lake, and the snowmobile trails close, and football season is a distant memory, and the tax refund is spent. Conventional wisdom dictates one should hunker down in the bar and wait for April — or May, if you’re a pessimist. Those with young children find themselves drinking from a cooler in the chlorine fog of the Holidome in Green Bay. Nondrinkers retire to the basement to spool fishing reels with fresh line or study the Garmin owner’s manual. Or to simply crack a few hickory nuts.

In other parts of the country, they call this mud season, or breakup, and folks simply leave for a week or two until it clears. Alaskans, like my sister, jet over to Hawaii. Friends in Colorado head for Moab. The Lake View crowd finds all this self-indulgent and weak. Only Dan the Outboard Man had March covered with a game plan we could all respect.

After winterizing every boat in the Lake Winnebago basin, Dan would rinse the antifreeze from his hair, load up some tools and a ­cooler, and point his F-150 south. Destination: Duck Key.

Dan’s Uncle Lester had a modest abode on the water, the perfect spot for a single man to hole up for the winter. Shorts and flip-flops every day. The hammock. A Corona for lunch. There was a skiff for fishing and plunking about. Dan would fix outboards for cash and sent the occasional postcard back to the Lake View, just to let us know he was getting along fine. The cooler was laden with Wisconsin contraband essential to Dan’s economy: Johnsonville brats and Jim’s Blue Ribbon summer sausage. The Keys were populated with a number of expats from Badgerland, and Dan discovered that a gift of summer sausage might earn him a discount at the parts counter or the bait shop. And when he needed a taxi late at night, it was there in a flash. Dan would head north in April, tan and rested and ready to wrench, with the same cooler loaded with frozen fish.

The past tense of the previous paragraph is meant to foreshadow. Hurricane Gordon flattened Chez Lester, which was underinsured and not rebuilt, and thus blew away Dan’s great gig. His postcards are still pinned up behind the bar.

The post Off My Dock: Pining For Margaritaville appeared first on Boating Mag.

Ah, boating season is finally here. The ice is off Lake Michigan, and we can’t wait to get our boat out, trolling for salmon and fishing the rocks around Chicago’s marinas for smallmouths; watching the Chicago air show; and heading to the Indiana Dunes lakeshore, where hundreds of boats line up and have a beach party just about every Saturday. As a senior master-certified mechanic for one of the Big Three automakers for 30 years and the go-to guy for all my buddy’s boat problems, I meticulously maintain my 20-foot Renken 3.0 runabout so it’s at the ready for such adventures. Poor maintenance leads to breakdowns and safety issues.

I tune it every season, change all the filters, use full synthetic oil, change all bellows every five years, and replace the gimbal bearing too. I change the water-pump impeller every two seasons and rebuild the carb as needed. My wife thinks I’m obsessed with maintenance, but I never fear running out 10 miles or even across the lake.

So, there it was, May 2015 and the first weekend out. Friday, I fired the boat up in the driveway. Oh, it sounded sweet. I packed a cooler, and Saturday morning we were off to the ramp, launched and running smooth. There was a smile on my face through the no-wake zone. I was just itching to hit the big lake. I rounded the last bend and told my wife, “OK, here we go!” I hit the throttle, the boat jumped out of the hole, and then … chug-chug, cough-cough. Dead in the water.

I restarted and the same thing happened. This couldn’t happen to me. Well, there I was, adrift. I was stumped, and the humility started when I radioed my buddy who was already at the beach to ask for a tow back to the ramp.

Back at home, I checked everything, including timing, compression, fuel delivery, the coil circuit and more. All was good. The engine did exhibit a terrible misfire, but I just thought, since it’s old, maybe there’s a water leak at the head gasket or manifold. It can’t be fuel. I use good-quality fuel and always use stabilizer.

I talked over the issue with my boating mechanic buddies, and we all agreed that maybe it had an internal intake leak. So, I tore it apart, and the intake manifold looked like new. There were no gasket leaks. Next, I pulled the head (hey — I’m there) and brought it to a machine shop for a quick valve job and milling. Then I put it back together. I rebuilt the carb while waiting for the machine shop, as well as replaced the fuel pump and the anti-siphon valve on the tank. I headed over to a local lake and launched it, gave it some throttle and … arrrggghhh! It was still running bad.

I’m crying at this point, for I’m a master technician. I’m stumped, my fellow techs are stumped, and the engine company’s online techs are stumped.

At this point, my ever-patient wife said, “Why don’t you drain the fuel and fill it with fresh gas?” Since I had just filled it before we went out to the big lake, it ran great last season when I put it up for winter, and I had stabilized the fuel as always, I told her that could not possibly be the problem.

A minute after she left for work, I drained the tank dry and refilled it. I went to the small lake, and damn if that engine didn’t run like a scalded dog.

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The post I Learned About Boating From This: Bad Gas appeared first on Boating Mag.