The definition of seamanship is apparently a matter of contention among some boaters, including other marine journalists not working for this publication. I will settle the matter right now: To practice seamanship means, in part, to practice good preparation. Seamanship is not limited to acts of high adventure on stormy seas.

Now that that’s resolved, let’s examine why boaters who winterize—or who store their boats otherwise—for months at a time should develop a routine for that first run of the season.

First, I never met a boat that wasn’t a work in progress. There’s always one or more tasks that need to be done or that are not 100 percent completed and one or more items that have failed or are about to fail. It’s the nature of the beast. Break out those Benjamins. Some of these tasks might be aesthetic and some might be critical. Along that spectrum, first-run boaters should make a checklist prioritizing critical items and working toward aesthetic.

Here’s my main point: Things that were in process or top of mind before you laid up the boat have had time to sink into the mire of disuse and distraction. Other things take up space in our brains. The holidays, house projects that got delayed while you were boating, plus the simple passage of time can all push boating tasks and repairs beyond recollection. So, make a list.

Start with safety: Check your flares for sufficient number and type as well as for expiration dates. Check your life jackets by pulling on the straps and ­tugging at the buckles, rearming the ­inflation mechanism, and noting whether any of your regular crew have grown over the winter and so now need a new size. Does the horn work? Do the nav lights work? Does your EPIRB, PLB or other beacon need a battery? Perform a self-test on these per the manufacturer’s procedure.

Other accessories that I’d give ­priority to include the VHF ­radio. Make sure it works by ­either requesting a radio check, radio-checking yourself with a handheld VHF, or by installing an inline wattmeter on the antenna cable (these come ready to go for easy installation).

Checking the bilge pump probably works as well in the safety paragraph, but I needed a good transition. Reach into the bilge and raise the pump’s float switch, and also check for manual operation by flipping the switch at the helm. What about livewell and washdown pumps? Better to find out before you launch, so check ’em out now.

Read Next: Six Tools for Spring Make-Ready

Let’s not forget propulsion. More than one boater shows up for spring launch with an ­engine that won’t start. Or won’t shift. Or otherwise doesn’t run right. ­Connect a hose, and fire off the engines in the yard or on the trailer. Shift gears. Check the alternator output, oil pressure and fluid levels before you head out for your first run.

This list is not intended to be complete for every boat. Nor is it an indictment of every boater. Instead, I’m hoping to provide you with a head start. I want to prompt you to think about your first run before you make it. Much of good seamanship is mindset and routine.

And don’t forget your drain plug. 

The post The Importance of a Spring Launch Checklist appeared first on Boating Mag.

Early on in my boat-testing career, I learned the hard way about what can happen when boating in unfamiliar waters. The boat company set up our test out of a beautiful Southwest Florida resort adjacent to Pine Island Sound. As I boarded the shiny new 30-foot cruiser and set to throw the lines, I asked the company rep where we should go to run the boat.

“I don’t know,” he answered. “I’m from Wisconsin.”

A dockhand happened to ­overhear and said that whatever we do, don’t veer outside the marked channels. So we idled out and then started ­collecting performance data between the safety of the red and green channel markers. All went well ­until we started running at speed in a stretch of water where the channel markers seemed at least a half-mile apart. I decided to try a hard-over turn at speed—­standard testing procedure—and wandered outside the designated channel by about 20 feet. Sure enough, we both heard and felt the whump of the bow ­slamming into soft sand, then the boat stopped moving. What was supposed to be a two-hour boat test turned into a six-hour one as we waited for the tide to rise.

Lesson learned.

When boating in unfamiliar waters, there are steps you can take to ensure that you don’t wind up high and dry—or worse.

Seek Out Local ­Knowledge

Unlike that boat test decades ago, a GPS and chart plotter now come standard on all but the simplest of boats. Make sure to update chart-plotter software to include whatever new waters you might be visiting, and also purchase a paper chart as a backup. But before you launch, ask around at the local docks and seek out people who regularly boat in the area. They will be able to share information about shifting sandbars, recent unmarked hazards, and quirky navigation tricks that might not be obvious. For instance, the spot where I ran aground gave away no telltale signs of being shallow, such as a color change, current seam or standing birds. To the naked eye, the water in the area looked exactly the same. We should have listened to the dockhand.

Another great resource is the Coast Guard’s Local Notices to Mariners, which can be found under the “LNMs” tab on its ­Navigation Center site (navcen​.uscg.gov). From there you can ­select a region and find out if a buoy or nav beacon is down, if a sandbar has shifted at an inlet, etc.

Read The Water

It’s not ­always the case, but often your ­surrounding environment will provide clues as to what’s happening around you. Breaking waves in an inlet typically indicate a depth change and should be avoided. A drastic color change in the water can also reveal a spot where deeper water transitions to shallow. More-­concentrated wind dimples can be a ­telltale sign of a depth change or a submerged hazard. Trust your ­senses; if something looks slightly off, it probably is.

Read Next: How to Avoid Underwater Boating Hazards

Stay the Course

You might think you’re safe just by monitoring your electronics and ­following the course laid out for you onscreen. But be sure to account for how wind and current affect your boat as you navigate. A crosswind or current can push you astray, even when you think you’re tracking true. And as we found out that fateful day, in some areas, straying even a few feet outside the channel can be the difference between safely reaching port and being hopelessly stranded.

The post Safely Navigating Unfamiliar Waters appeared first on Boating Mag.

A floating traffic jam quickly developed as we joined a line of other boats, not unlike a solemn funeral procession, through a narrow channel behind a half-submerged vessel under tow and en route to a nearby boatyard, escorted by an entourage of local harbor patrol and Coast Guard vessels. 

Some of us feathered our throttles to keep idle speeds in check and remain well astern of the stricken vessel, the 100-foot ­hawser serving as the tow line, and the heavily burdened TowBoatUS as its captain skillfully negotiated the circuitous channel. 

All of the boaters cooperated in offering the tow boat and its ­tethered load a wide berth—­except, that is, for one impatient boater who ignored common sense and tried to pass on the north side of the channel between a shoal and the taut hawser. 

A piercing blast of a siren and a public scolding over the loudspeaker from one of the harbor patrol officers put a halt to this ill-advised shortcut, and the chagrined captain sheepishly backed away and rejoined the procession amid the disapproving scowls of other boaters.

Giving vessels in tow a very wide berth ranks as a key tenet of prudent seamanship. By the way, a vessel in tow also refers to one that is being pushed and hauled along the side (on the hip), as well as one being pulled. Whichever the case, the two vessels are often referred to collectively as a “tug and tow” or simply as a “tow.” In these scenarios, a vessel in tow lacks power, and sometimes steering, and the towing vessel is extremely limited in its ability to maneuver or adjust speed.  

A tow is always designated as the stand-on vessel. In any encounter, you are the give-way vessel. That means granting a tow the widest berth possible, giving it room to maneuver, especially when it’s one vessel ­pulling another, which is ­arguably the most dangerous to boaters. Navigate well astern of the tow and avoid crossing the bow at close range or, heaven forbid, cutting between a towing vessel and the one behind it. This has happened, and the results are almost always tragic. 

During daylight hours, recognizing a tow usually proves easy, although with a hawser ­stretching 200 meters or more between a tug and tow, inexperienced boaters might not associate one vessel with the other until it’s too late. 

That is why a vessel engaged in towing with a line exceeding 200 meters will fly a black diamond day shape. The towed vessel or object will show a black diamond as well. A vessel towing with a line that is less than 200 meters does not need to display a day shape.

Read Next: How to Safely Tow Other Boats

After dark, recognizing one vessel pulling another grows more difficult. In this case, the towing vessel is required to exhibit two masthead lights (three lights if the tow is over 200 ­meters) in line, as well as a yellow light situated over the stern light. The towed vessel must exhibit side and stern lights. Make sure you remember this when boating at night.

Fog presents the greatest challenge in distinguishing a tow, ­particularly one vessel pulling another, but a radar with good target separation will help you see the two in relatively close ­association, a sure tipoff of a tug and tow. 

An AIS overlay on the radar or a chart plotter will identify and confirm a tow. Press on the AIS on-screen icon to call up a page that describes the vessels engaged in towing, their size, speed, course, closest point of approach, and more. This will give you information you need to give the tow a wide berth.

The post Navigating Safely Around a Boat Being Towed appeared first on Boating Mag.

Whether you’re a spectator or a participant, nighttime boat parades featuring festive lights and creative boat and yacht displays can be one of the most fun and memorable traditions of the entire holiday season. From San Francisco’s famous Fisherman’s Wharf Holiday Lights & Sights Boat Parade to the Fort Lauderdale, Florida Winterfest Boat Parade, scores of cities and towns across the country light up the skies with dazzling Christmas-themed, floating showstoppers. Spectators only need conduct a simple internet search to find locally available parade sites and viewing times.

For parade participants, however, evening boat outings in the cooler winter months require special safety considerations. The Water Sports Foundation encourages boaters to plan ahead to stay safe as they participate in holiday boat parades by following these six safety tips.

Suit Up Like Santa: Wear Your Life Jacket! Drowning is the cause of death in 79 percent of fatal boating accidents where the cause of death was known; 86 percent of those drowning victims were not wearing life jackets. With parade participants often actively engaged in onboard movement and dance step routines, it’s important to be well prepared and suited up for safety. Boaters should all don U.S. Coast Guard approved life jackets that are sized to fit: Choosing the Right Life Jacket – Water Sports Foundation. The great news is that there are many attractive styles and more streamlined designs now available for boating activities including new lightweight inflatables. Check your state law for mandates regarding life jacket usage and age requirements for children: NASBLA Life Jacket Requirements by State and Age.

Gear Up! Make sure all required boating safety gear is ready, functional and easily accessible. While signaling devices may already be tucked into your gear bag, consider a small, waterproof clip-on strobe light available from most marine stores that can be attached to your life jacket for extra visibility if needed. Always have a VHF radio on hand and know how to properly use it.

Dress for Success. Choose the right type of attire for local weather conditions and be prepared in case conditions change. Consider high tech fabrics to keep you toasty and dry. Remember, children lose body heat faster than adults, so bring extra layers of clothing in a waterproof dry bag, along with towels and blankets in case they are needed.

Always Designate a Sober Skipper. When it comes to holiday cheer, boaters need to be extra vigilant and understand the serious dangers and consequences associated with drinking and driving, which is compounded when navigating at night. The Water Sports Foundation recommends that boaters avoid impairment. If drinking is allowed by parade organizers, however, every boat should designate a sober skipper, a trained and experienced captain who agrees not to imbibe while operating the craft. Crew should be cautioned to avoid or at the least, minimize alcohol consumption to keep their wits about them while underway and onboard.

Learn the Parade Route in Advance. Most boat parade organizers provide a map of the parade route. Review the dock area along with the route and if possible, run your boat through the course in the daylight to spot any obstacles or challenges that may be harder to see with limited visibility.

Charge Your Batteries. Holiday boat parades mean colorful lights, music and lots of potential drain to your batteries. Make sure your boat batteries are fully charged and capable of handling the extra power demand associated with accessories like lights and stereo. Consider using LED decorative lights which use less electrical power, or a longer-lasting lithium-ion battery that is separate from your engine starting battery.

“We love holiday boat parades…they historically are great fun and extremely popular in boating communities across the nation,” said Water Sports Foundation Executive Director Jim Emmons. “By ensuring all your safety gear is aboard and in working order and adhering to a few simple boating safety practices, participants can maximize their boating fun and enjoy a great tradition with family and friends.”

About the Water Sports Foundation

Headquartered in Orlando, Fla., the Water Sports Foundation (WSF) is the non-profit educational arm of the Water Sports Industry Association (WSIA.net). The WSF National Boating Safety Media Center is produced under a grant from the Sport Fish Restoration and Boating Trust Fund, administered by the U.S. Coast Guard. For more information and to access boating safety resources, visit the new National Boating Safety Media Center at watersportsfoundation.com/media/ or contact WSF Communications Director Wanda Kenton Smith at Wanda@WaterSportsFoundation.com; text 407.697.8055 or WSF Media Relations Joel Staley at Joel@WaterSportsFoundation.com or text 407.242.9994.

The post Boat Parade Safety appeared first on Boating Mag.

Imagine a fisherman or waterfront homeowner with a boat tied to a dock as a wakeboat passes, throwing a massive wake while blasting music at nightclub-volume levels. It’s easy to see why they would be unhappy, possibly even furious. 

The thing is, their resentment won’t be directed solely at that one wakeboat, but at everyone else involved in tow sports—from wakeboarders and wakesurfers to ­water-skiers and even tube riders.

And that’s the problem. Many who enjoy or live along the waterways are annoyed by this behavior, especially when met with a belligerent response. In some cases, this has led to rules, laws and legislation restricting wakeboats. But it doesn’t have to be this way. With a little common sense, tow-sports enthusiasts can enjoy their favorite ­activities without upsetting others, creating a shared and friendly experience for everyone on the water.

So how do we achieve this? It starts with understanding the basic rules of tow-sports etiquette, but even before that, with developing an awareness of others who enjoy the water too. When you start thinking from their perspective, you’ll realize how your actions as a tow-sports enthusiast affect them.

It also begins with respecting the role of the tow-sports driver. Whether you’re towing a tube rider or a pro, the tow-sports driver is more than just someone who sits in front of the steering wheel and throttle. The driver is the linchpin of a successful and safe session on the water and should be aware of how to coexist with others who share the waterways.

A heavily ballasted wakeboat, moving at slower speeds—about 10 mph for wakesurfing and 20 mph for wakeboarding—creates a massive wake that can impact other boaters, docked boats, and shoreline property such as beaches and docks. For this reason, the Water Sports Industry Association recommends that wakeboats and other boats pulling tow sports stay at least 200 feet from shore. That’s a great commonsense practice, but wake drivers should carry this further and apply this to other boaters and users of the waterways, such as kayakers and stand-up paddleboarders. You don’t want to swamp an angler at anchor or knock an SUP user off the board. This 200-foot distance also ensures the safety of the person being towed.

If you’re towing in an area with other boaters, anglers or waterfront homes, try to avoid repetitive passes in the same area. Constantly going back and forth can annoy others with the wake and noise.

As I mentioned, your wake isn’t the only thing that bothers other boaters. Consider how the sound from your stereo system impacts those living along or using the water. Sound carries farther over ­water, particularly in the morning and ­before sunset, when other noises are minimal. Especially when you consider that there are no obstructions such as trees or buildings to disrupt the sound waves on open water. Keeping the volume down not only helps others, but it also allows the tow-sports driver keep an ear out for other boats passing nearby.

So the best way to be courteous is to look for areas far from waterfront homes and other boaters. If you’re near someone else, it’s courteous to approach them and ask if sharing the waterway will be an issue. Being friendly and showing concern for others goes a long way toward peaceful coexistence on the waterways—and who knows, you might even make a new friend. By avoiding conflicts and by not upsetting others, you can spend more time enjoying your favorite tow sport, which is what it’s all about.

FAQ

The post Basic Rules of Tow Sports Etiquette appeared first on Boating Mag.

Bowrise, or inclination, affects several aspects of your boat’s ride and handling. The basic thing to remember is that if the bow is up, the stern is down—and vice versa.

So, if you are navigating a ­shallow bit of water, it’s important to keep the bow down. As stated, keeping the bow down keeps the stern up. In this situation, we see many boaters with outboards and sterndrives who, properly, trim the drive up to reduce draft. However, just as many times we see the same boaters, and operators of inboard-powered craft as well, using too much power to go slow. Do so, and the trimmed drive—and built-in shaft angle of an inboard—depresses the stern, the bow rises, and the prop kicks up mud, sand, shells, or worse. Plus, operating like this causes the cooling water intakes to ­ingest more silt and sand.

Practice going slow at minimal rpm. It takes practice because operating at 600 or 800 rpm (for gas engines) doesn’t inspire confidence. It requires more ­attention to the helm, oversteering and correcting. Of course, in some situations, wind or current will dictate the use of higher rpm. But most times, operating slow at the least rpm helps the bow stay down and the stern stay up.

A boat carrying its bow too high while attaining plane can limit visibility forward and make for a bumpy, splashy transition before the boat levels out. Adding weight forward is one way to get your bow down quicker. For smaller boats, this might be ­accomplished by stowing the portable fuel tank forward, or having your crew sit up front, or even by the use of an extension ­handle to get the weight of the ­skipper of a tiller-steered ­outboard more ­forward.

Larger boats so equipped can trim the engine all the way in and deploy the trim tabs to help ­attain plane. Changing to a lower-­pitched propeller, or one with a larger diameter, can also help to get a boat planing sooner. Changing props will have other effects, though, so be aware of potential trade-offs, such as reduced rpm or top speed.

Read Next: How to Maintain a Boat’s Trim-and-Tilt System

Boats operating at ­planing speed can also suffer poor ­performance indicated by carrying their bow too high, or even too low. Ideally, and in general, a boat on plane will be most efficient at about 3 to 4 degrees of inclination. That number might be less for stepped hulls, the trim of which is built-in. So, once planing, retract the trim tabs and (if not inboard- or water-jet-­powered) begin ­trimming out the drive. Do this ­without changing throttle position much. Do so and you’ll watch the bow lift and rpm increase as you trim out. Too much trim, and speed will begin to fall off and the boat could start to ­porpoise. Too little trim, and you will be running bow down, aka plowing, producing a wetter ride and burning more fuel because there is more of the hull in the water to create drag.

Now, on rough days, you might want to trade off some efficiency and a drier ride for the smoother ride that a bow-down attitude might bring. Using the information in this article hopefully makes you aware of your choices, and the trade-offs, of boat trim.

The post Understanding the Basics of Boat Trim appeared first on Boating Mag.

Backing your boat down the ramp, especially when there’s a line of boaters ready to start their day who are waiting behind you, is one of the most stressful aspects of boating, right up there with docking in a tight slip and navigating a tricky inlet. Add in the fact that everyone around you has a phone with a camera, and your potential launch-ramp mishaps could be one click away from going viral.

That said, there are things you can do to help yourself and to make others more sympathetic to your ramp experience. Every boater should be mindful of these tips when they get to the ramp, so take a hard look at these unwritten rules of trailering and become one of the best practitioners of launch-ramp etiquette.

Always Be Prepared

First and foremost, when you get to the ramp, pull to the side and prep your boat for launch before you even consider starting to back down your trailer. This includes unhitching the bow safety chain, taking off any canvas still in place, turning on your battery switch, setting dock lines if you plan to tie off to let in your crew at the dock, putting in the drain plug, loading up your coolers and fishing gear and water toys onto the boat, and taking off your transom straps. Also, checking to see if your engine turns over while you’re in the water at the ramp is a bad idea. Make sure your engine is in working order and will start quickly before you even leave your house. Doing any of these things after you’ve already backed your boat down the ramp is a major faux pas, and is sure to earn you some ill will from your fellow trailer boaters.

Don’t Block the Ramp

Even if you launch your boat quickly and get your tow vehicle out of the ramp space in record time, you’re doing anyone who’s waiting no favors if you tie off your boat inside the launch area so that it’s blocking their ability to back in their trailer. Try to tie off at the end of the dock or on the outside of the dock to load your crew so that others can get in and out of the water too.

Wave Hello

If you see someone you know at the ramp, don’t stop your unloading process to have a morning chat and a cup of coffee. Give them a quick wave, and save the conversation until you’re out of the loading and unloading zone.

Read Next: Staying Safe at the Launch Ramp

Parking Matters

If you have guests coming in separate cars, make sure they do not park in the elongated spaces specifically set aside for tow vehicles with trailers. Many ramps have signs designating them as trailer-parking-only spots, but some people still insist on parking their trailerless cars there because they’re often closer to the ramp. Still, you’ll earn a lot of ill will—and possibly a parking ticket—if you take up a trailer spot with your car on a busy weekend.

Cutting the Line

If there’s a line of trailers patiently waiting for the opportunity to unload, there is surely a guy looking to jump the queue. If it happens at Disney World or at the fast-food ­restaurant, it’s going to happen at the boat ramp. Don’t be that guy.

These are just a few of the things people do that drive their fellow boaters crazy. If you follow these unwritten rules, you’re more likely to be viewed as a launch-ramp hero, not a social media sensation.

The post Unwritten Boat Ramp Rules appeared first on Boating Mag.

Que tu sabe!

It is a common greeting in Latin America. (Literal translation: “What do you know?”) Despite the DJ’s music carrying across the sand, I was able to hear people around me greeting each other in that way. They acknowledged me like that too. After all, though I wasn’t visiting on a boat, the 3rd annual Grady-White Rendezvous engaged everyone enjoying Sun Bay.

What started as a way for a group with a commonality to come together has turned into a day that residents prepare and take off for. Event organizer Victor Camillo describes the vibe of the Rendezvous:

“Being together with others with the same interests is amazing. We love being able to create memories. We’re like a family.”

Camillo says that Puerto Rico’s Grady-White community has managed to create a positive atmosphere for boaters, their families, and Vieques locals. The jovial, drama-free event can make anyone feel like they can host, or be part of, an epic raft-up, but a lot of planning has gone into making the weekend successful year after year.

What’s a raft-up, you say? It’s a gathering of boaters who meet, and tie their vessels together, creating an anchored raft. This usually occurs in a pretty spot, like a cove or sandbar, though this Vieques locale is over-the-top special. Raft-up activities include visiting the other boats, swimming, wading ashore to beachcomb, and perhaps taking a kayak or SUP for a paddle. In short, a raft-up is a celebration of the boating lifestyle. This Grady-White raft-up is of record-setting size, with 77 boats and over 300 loyal Grady owners attending. That makes its organizers a great source for advice if you are seeking to organize a raft-up in your area.

According to Bill Burleson, the event’s cofounder, at least six-month’s worth of planning is necessary for the first large-scale raft-up. That will give you time to figure out the where and why of your event, because it is not enough to just tie up and party. He explains that every event should keep in mind three main tenets: charitable giving, a positive local impact, and a family friendly atmosphere.

Have a Cause in Mind

Six months before the event, the Grady owners group, La Familia Grady-White Puerto Rico, was already collecting dues. Collecting money early confirms a guest’s commitment, but it also helps with planning the charitable contribution. On top of donations to organizations like Susan G. Komen, Vieques groups receive support, like the local hospital that received a mammography machine. “The purpose is to create a better environment while getting to know other great boat owners,” Burleson explains.

This year, La Familia Grady-White Puerto Rico donated $8,000 to Fe Que Transforma (Faith that Transforms), a group that prepares food for those in need. It also reportedly generated some $100,000 for the local economy, which is in some need.

Respect the Locals

Burleson, a Vieques native who now lives on the mainland, feels that an event is not effective if it doesn’t positively engage the local community.

“I asked the group, ‘Why don’t we get together and raise funds for some entity in Vieques?’ So I called the mayor, and he immediately directed me to an entity that provides transportation to cancer patients.”

Events in small rural areas, like Vieques, are only impactful if the residents can somehow reap the benefits, and if needs go beyond cancer care, Burleson is proud of how much money the locals make.

“We’ve been stimulating the economy, and within three years, we’ve injected approximately a quarter of a million dollars into Vieques.”

That isn’t just hotel and Airbnb revenue, considering most stay on their boats. The beach is lined with food trucks and stands, vendors grilling lobster, selling slushies and arepas.

In the process of planning and partying, locals should not feel out of place or sidestepped because of an event encroaching upon the best beach or bay. That includes the ones that can’t speak up for themselves. About a quarter of a mile from the site of the party, you can find taped off, secluded areas of beach. Vieques goes to great lengths to ensure that newly hatched sea turtles are undisturbed and able to make it to the surf.

One of the highlights of the weekend is when all of the boats turn on their underwater lights. While it’s magical to witness, it is short lived, according to Burleson. By 10:30 p.m., all of the lights are off so that sea turtles are able to find their way to the shore to nest.

 “We also enforce that no one can approach the yellow ribbons where the turtles nest,” he says.

Even in an area without endangered wildlife, leaving no trace should be a goal, and that’s why Grady-White’s Rendezvous ends with a beach cleanup by all.

La Familia

Luis Rivera has been attending the raft-up since the beginning. A doctor from the main island, he was excited to hear about the mammography machine that will aid the locals, considering the alarmingly high rates of cancer on the island, compared to the mainland. He was called by the mission, but what keeps him coming back is the overall atmosphere. He contributed to it, after all, seeing that I decided to talk to him after devouring the crab salad he came and offered me.

“What keeps me coming back is that the people are respectful, and we donate to help poorer people in the community. My family enjoys it very much.”

The music was a good mix of Top 40 and local sounds. Clean lyrics of course. On Friday, the crowd is light, but Saturday, the surf is comfortably crowded with children on paddleboards and kayaks, snorkeling, and flipping into the water. Rivera’s brood of six jumped in line to snack on pernil and arroz con gandules when they weren’t floating along or dancing to the sounds of the live band. At 70, Rivera wasn’t the oldest participant, and even tiny babies were held in waist-deep water sporting their floats.

Read Next: How to Raft Up With Other Boats

Day of Strategies

On the first day of the Rendezvous, I noticed Camillo running around with a hand-held VHF radio. No water-based event can work without them, and certainly not without dinghies (how do you think I got to Burleson’s beautiful boat with my recorder—swimming?) Future raft-up organizers take note.

The event has never run into a significant problem, and that is probably because they keep safety at the forefront. This is another important consideration for those planning a raft-up.

According to Burleson, “We don’t allow people to walk from boat to boat. If you want to see a friend down the way, you take a dinghy or paddleboard, or you swim.” At the minimum, breaking an ankle would dampen the vibe, but boating accidents can be deadly, even when everyone is sober.

Safety is also why this year’s line-up was also broken up, with some boats anchored together separately, off to the side. While it may not be as aesthetically pleasing, it is safer than forcing boats out into a rougher part of the bay. Besides, locals also need access, and a big chain of boats can block them.

Again, work with the community in which you are planning your raft up.

Besides, how else would the local fisherman come to the shore with their freshly caught lobster?

Common courtesy is enforced, and each participant gets a list of rules.

Burleson says, “We give everyone a list of requirements, including regarding your holding tanks. You’re not going to flush them here.”

That list includes how to interact with the turtles, informing everyone of the legality.

Familiarize Yourself With Rafting Up

For an event like the Rendezvous, boaters received plenty of help, but it was beneficial for all of the boats to know how to raft up prior to the event. Dinghies also directed oncoming boats to exactly where they’d tie up. Consider stationing people in dinghies to direct and help people at your raft-up.

If you’re new to tying up, start by having three fenders and two mooring lines per side, and tie the fenders up higher than usual to prevent any impact. It is also good to have two to four spring lines on hand. The larger boat will serve as the “anchor,” and other boats should be facing the same way when approaching.

Camillo warns that you could injure yourself or others if someone is in the water, or if you aren’t watching your hands closely. Make sure all passengers keep their hands and feet in the boat while rafting up, so they don’t get pinched.

Bottom Line

The Grady-White Owners of Puerto Rico, put on one of the most successful and largest raft-ups in the world. It is a testament to good planning, the fellowship between boaters and to top it off, it helps those in need. To the Grady-White Family of Puerto Rico, we say, ¡Buen trabajo!

10 Tips for Rafting Up

1. The largest, heaviest boat should drop its anchor first, and smaller boats can tie up on either side.
2. Approaching boats should slow down to avoid any potentially ­damaging collisions.
3. Think twice about cutting your ­engine—you might need to guide your boat against the current.
4. Remember to deploy your fenders before approaching another boat to raft up.
5. Come in facing the same direction as the larger boat, then throw your bow line over to the larger boat.
6. Note where the transom will line up against the other boat; being aware of cleat positions on both boats helps in tying and deploying ­fenders. Exchange lines, and make sure they’re firm before tying up.
7. Tie the bow line first, then the ­stern line.
8. Always secure boats to each other using the cleats, not rail stations, handrails or other accessories.
9. Keep the lines tied between boats as tight as possible to minimize ­motion between the boats. The exception is the bow line, which should be loose to allow for sway and swing.
10. Try your best to raft together with boats that are a similar size, or tie up in size (length) order. This will help in putting fenders in the most effective place.

When you’re ready to leave, remove the shore lines and mooring lines, then your bow line comes off last. Don’t use heavy power until you’re away from other boat, then ride off into the sunset.

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As waters grow crowded with boating anglers, captains need to be aware of lines fished at distances from the boat. The converse also holds true: Anglers should ­respect and avoid interfering with general boating activities.  

The key for both lies in recognizing these situations and steering wide berths. When it comes to angling activities, here are four situations you’re likely to encounter. 

Kite-Fishing

Kite-fishing is a saltwater technique used primarily to present live baits on the surface downwind from the boat. Kites can also be used to troll lures such as flying fish imitations at the ­water’s surface. The key element to remember here is that the fishing lines hang roughly vertically from the kite lines flown far from the boat.

The Atlantic Ocean off South Florida represents a hotbed for kite-fishing for sailfish, mahi and other species, so be ­particularly aware when cruising through these waters. If you see a drifting boat such as a center-console or sport-fisher, search downwind for one or more kites flying high. They are usually bright colors and might have big helium balloons attached. Multiple fishing lines will be hanging from the kite line. For everyone’s sake, you don’t want run into them, so steer well wide of the kites.

LongLine Trollers

New saltwater fishing techniques emerge each season, and one that has hit West Coast waters is longline trolling with high-speed lures such as the Nomad Design Mad Macks. Highly effective for big Pacific bluefin tuna, it calls for trolling with 100 to 300 yards of line out behind a boat running between 10 and 14 knots. 

In crowded waters, this can become problematic when another boat crosses behind a high-speed troller and wraps the longline in its running gear. So while ­cruising offshore, keep an eye out for boats moving much faster than normal trolling speeds. If you spot one, look for one or more lines streaming astern. If it’s crossing in front of you, slow down and let it proceed well past you. Alternately, give it a very wide berth astern—at least 300 yards—before ­resuming your original course. 

Planer Boards

On some lakes and rivers, slow-trolling with planer boards is a popular technique among walleye and salmon anglers. With this method, a fishing line is attached to a floating board that angles out to the side, where fish are less likely to be spooked by the boat. Anglers might fish four or more lines, each on a planer board as far as 40 to 60 feet abeam of the boat.

Issues arise when another boat comes in a little too close. Whether just putting along or running at speed, you can snag the planer-­board lines and wrap them in the propeller. The trick here is to look closely for the brightly colored boards, which are often red, ­yellow or white, out to the sides of a slowly moving fishing boat or even a pontoon. Give the troller a wide berth. In addition, slowing down to no-wake speed is a courtesy I like to extend whenever I encounter boaters engaged in fishing activities.

Read Next: Practice Proper Fishing Etiquette

Hooked Fish

Big, powerful fish rarely cooperate once they’re hooked. Some, such as tuna, fight in the vertical, but others, such as marlin, sailfish and tarpon, run out and away, peeling lots of line off reels. The problem is, other nearby boats, not realizing a boat is hooked up, sometimes drive between the angler and the fish, cutting the line. Heated ­confrontations usually ensue.

The solution is to pay close attention to other boats in the area and what they are doing before approaching. A pair of binoculars can help in assessing the situation. An angler pulling on a bent rod serves as a big tipoff. Shift your gaze in the direction that the rod is bent to determine where and how far out the line extends, knowing that sometimes there’s a “belly” in the line, so the rod might not be pointed directly toward the fish. 

With billfish and tarpon, you may well see the fish jumping and splashing at the surface. Whether you see the fish or not, steer well wide of the angling action and give the other boat a chance to land the prize without entangling or cutting the line with your prop.

The post Navigating Safely Around Anglers appeared first on Boating Mag.

Anchoring the boat is one of the most intimidating skills to learn for a boat operator. Securing a heavy boat with a rope, chain and anchor in strong current, heavy wind, and crushing waves presents the opportunity for catastrophic failure. A tangled chain, snagged rope or dragged anchor can quickly put the boat and crew in danger. 

And retrieving the anchor presents even more dangers. Pulling the anchor free puts tons of pressure on both the anchor rope and boat. But mostly pulling in the anchor line puts a lot of pressure on bones and muscles. 

Using an electric windlass anchor system to manage the rope, chain and anchor removes some of the work from the process, but doesn’t eliminate the potential for damage and injury. Learning how to use an electric windlass anchor system takes the intimidation out of anchoring the boat. 

What Is an Electric Windlass?

An electric windlass anchor system consists of a motor that turns a wheel to retrieve and deploy the anchor line and chain, called the anchor rode. Unlike a winch, which uses a large drum to reel in line, the windless wheel grips the line and feeds it into an anchor-rode locker. The windless takes less space but a winch is stronger. 

If used or installed incorrectly, a powerful motor turning a metal wheel at high speed under the pressure of a heavy anchor line is a recipe for disaster. But with some safety steps and an understanding of how the system works, a windlass can make boat anchoring significantly easier. 

System Preparation

Like any mechanical device on a boat, the anchor, windlass and rode require regular maintenance and inspection. The anchor is handy for mooring the boat at sea, and essential for securing the boat if the motor loses power. 

Before each trip, I check the anchor rode and electrical connections, and then test the windlass controls by running a few feet of rode through the gypsy. One of most common failure points is the anchor rope or chain jamming the anchor windlass jaws. Before operating the windlass anchor system, be sure the anchor rope isn’t tangled or snagged in the anchor locker. 

Double check the chain stopper pin and windlass brake to keep the anchor rope from accidentally deploying. When I’m using the anchor windlass, I never leave it unattended. A small problem with an electric boat anchor system only takes a moment to turn into a big problem.

Deploying the Anchor

The first step to anchoring is selecting an appropriate location. Before releasing the anchor, check the area is clear of obstructions and other boats and away from navigation channels and hazards. Consider how the current and wind will affect the boat as it swings on the anchor. Then, check the fish finder and chart to determine the bottom composition and choose the correct type of anchor for soft mud, sand or rocks.

The key to safely deploying the anchor is checking the rope, chain and all connections. Frayed rope, rusty chain and faulty knots and links could cause a failure while deploying the anchor. If the anchor rode breaks while at anchor, the boat is set adrift out of control. 

When using an electric windlass to deploy the anchor, it’s crucial to verify that the rope and chain move freely through the windlass and lie loosely in the anchor locker. Inspect the windlass for rope or chain that’s misaligned or pinched in the gypsy.

To deploy the anchor rope, unhook the chain stopper and use the anchor windlass controls to lower the chain and anchor rope. The best electric windlass anchor systems have control switches at the boat’s helm near the windlass. This allows the windlass operator to watch the line and control the windlass to prevent tangles and jams.

Some windlass systems have a free fall setting that allows the anchor to drop without resistance. This is a great feature for anglers looking to precisely anchor over structure. However, the free fall mode will not control the speed the rope moves through the windlass, making it even more important to observe the line and chain for potential tangles.

Once the anchor hits bottom, the rate the rope leaves the anchor locker slows down or goes slack. The formula for anchor scope is seven feet of line for every foot of depth. To properly hold bottom in 10 feet of water, the anchor requires 70 feet of scope. This formula varies depending on the type of anchor, bottom composition and the weather and water conditions. In heavy current and high wind over soft bottom, let out more line to ensure the anchor sticks securely.

Once the anchor is secure and the boat is sitting safely, tie the anchor rope to a bow cleat by wrapping the rope a full turn around the base of the cleat and then crossing the bitter end of the rope around the cleat horns. Never use the windlass brake to secure the rope. The weight of the boat and pressure of the current and wind could cause the rope to jam or slip.

Retrieving the Anchor in Nine Steps

The windlass pays for itself when it’s time to retrieve the anchor. Instead of muscling the anchor rope into the boat, the windlass motor does the hard work. Just like deploying the anchor, the powerful motor and heavy anchor rope offer potential for damage or injury. Here are the steps you should follow to avoid any danger:

1. Before untying the anchor rope from the bow cleat, start the boat motor. If the windlass motor fails or the rope jams or breaks, the motor controls the boat until the problem is solved. 

2. With one person at the windlass controls and another person at the helm, unwrap the rope from the cleat horns. I leave the rope wrapped around the cleat base to manually control the rope. 

3. Bump the boat into gear and motor ahead slowly. With pressure off the line, I unwrap the rope from the cleat and release it to move through the bow bow roller.

4. Then, I use the windlass controls to retrieve the line. Maintain communication between the windlass operator and the boat operator. Move the boat ahead to feed line through the windlass. Never use the windlass to pull the boat or break free the anchor. If the anchor is stuck in the bottom, tie the rope off to the bow cleat and use the boat motor to pull the anchor free. 

5. Once the anchor is free of the bottom, take the boat out of gear or motor ahead very slowly and retrieve the rest of the line. 

6. While retrieving line, observe the line feeding into the anchor locker. Pile the line loosely in the anchor locker so it can dry and it is ready to redeploy.

7. When the anchor chain reaches the windlass, slow the retrieve to ensure the rope to chain link passes through the windlass. If the splice sticks in the gypsy, deploy a few inches of rope and realign the chain in the gypsy. 

8. When the anchor reaches the surface of the water, slow the retrieve to allow the anchor to lodge in the bow roller without swinging and damaging the boat.

9. To prevent the anchor from accidentally deploying, insert the locking pin through the chain and reverse the windlass a couple inches to take pressure off the mechanism. 

Safety Considerations

Using a windlass makes anchoring easier but not simpler. The mechanism takes the work out of lowering and raising the anchor, but the power of the mechanism increases the risk of damage or injury. Always keep in mind that the windlass is a very powerful machine capable of crushing bones and ripping skin. 

Here are some important tips to follow while using an electric windlass:

• Keep hands, feet, long hair and dangling clothes away from the spinning windlass gypsy. Also, keep away from the rope as it feeds through the windlass. 
• If you need to clear rope in the anchor locker or free a jam in the windlass, stop the motor before moving in to work. The windlass operator needs to observe the rope and chain and control the speed of the windlass to maintain proper working pressure on the gypsy and keep the line and chain feeding smoothly through the windlass. 
• Never allow the windlass brake to hold the boat on anchor or secure the anchor rope while underway. Always cleat off the anchor line while the anchor is deployed and be sure to pin the anchor chain while the boat is underway. The windlass brake is only designed to stop the rope and chain, if the brake fails, the anchor could deploy accidentally. 
• Always insert the locking pin when the anchor is stowed and tie off the anchor rope when the anchor is deployed. And stay clear and alert when the windlass is operating. 
• To keep the windlass running properly and further avoid damage or injury, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for maintaining the moving parts and electrical connections. 
• To extend the life of the anchor rode and anchor, allow the rope to dry in a well ventilated anchor locker and wash and clean the chain and anchor between uses. 

Explore Your Electric Windlass Anchor Options

For small boats a windlass is a convenience, for large boats a power anchor system is a necessity. On any boat, a windlass makes the anchor easier and safer to deploy and retrieve. 

A vertical windlass is more powerful but takes up more space. A horizontal windlass requires less deck space, but is more difficult to install. A windlass with a low-profile gypsy and a drum allows the motor to handle heavy rope and chain. The best windlass rope and chain packages use a spliced connection to keep the windlass working correctly. 

FAQ

What size windlass do I need?

Choosing the correct size windlass depends on the size and weight of the boat and the expected anchoring conditions. Manufacturer guidelines help match the size of the windlass to the boat’s length and weight. However, if you plan to anchor in heavy current, big waves and high wind, using a larger windlass will provide more power to match the anchoring conditions. Another consideration is the physical size of the windlass. Check to make sure the windlass base will fit in the mounting location and the anchor locker will accommodate the anchor rode. 

Do you have to tie off a windlass anchor?

Yes. The windlass is used to deploy and retrieve the anchor rope. It should not be used to pull the boat or secure the anchor. Use the boat motor to propel the boat towards the anchor and use a cleat to secure the anchor rope. When the anchor is retracted, a locking pin keeps it in place so it doesn’t accidentally deploy.

How do I choose an anchor windlass?

Two choices for an anchor windlass: vertical and horizontal. The name refers to the gypsy axle running horizontally or vertically to the boat’s bow. A vertical windlass has the drum or gypsy mounted above deck and the motor and electrical connections protected below deck. A vertical windlass has more power and uses less energy but requires a larger anchor locker. A horizontal windlass, like a Lewmar windlass, has the gypsy and motor mounted above deck. Consult the boat manufacturer’s recommendations to choose a vertical or horizontal windlass.

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