After 30 years of saltwater use, the intricately curved anodized-aluminum trim along the cap of the open transom of my outboard-powered 21-foot center-console fishing boat was falling apart. Corrosion had eaten away at the metal, and its once-lustrous finish was now crusty and riddled with ragged holes. 

I wanted to buy new trim from the factory, but production of the model had long ceased, and no replacement trim was available. Commissioning a custom piece of trim from a fabricator proved a bit too expensive for my budget.  

Making my own seemed like the way to go. I started with 1-inch aluminum 90-degree angle stock for the straight run across the outboard edge of the transom where the liner meets the hull. On each end of the straight run, however, the transom curves upward to meet the rail cap. Bending the aluminum stock proved too difficult for me, so I turned to another material—1-inch PVC 90-degree angle stock—to adjoin and bookend the aluminum trim. The PVC is 3/16-inch thick, which is drillable and holds fasteners well, and the light-gray color complements my boat and blends well with the aluminum angle stock. It is available in up to 6-foot lengths for $21.08 each from grainger.com.

PVC angle stock is rigid and chemical-resistant but becomes malleable with the application of mild heat, and so it can conform nicely to inside and outside bends. It returns to a rigid state once it cools. Here are the steps I followed to shape one curving piece of trim, a process that needs to be repeated in a mirror image on the opposite side.

Skill Level: 2.5 of 5

Finish Time: Approx. 3-4 hours per each curved piece of trim

Tools and Supplies

• PVC 90-degree 1-inch angle stock ($21.08/6-foot length; grainger.com)
• 2-foot-long piece of ­two-by-six hardwood lumber
• Jig saw or coping saw
• Scrap cardboard and ­masking tape
• Pencil or marker
• Heavy-duty scissors and ­razor cutter
• Assorted vises and clamps
• Heat-resistant gloves
• Heat gun
• Miter box and fine-tooth back saw
• Bastard file
• Power drill and bit set
• No. 10 Phillips 3/4-inch-long truss-head self-tapping screws 
• Phillips screwdriver
• Marine sealant
• Shop rags (to wipe away ­excess sealant)

Create a Template

If you have not done so already, remove the old trim. If it comes off without bending or breaking, you can use the old trim as the template to build a jig as outlined in the next step. If the old trim is not usable for this purpose, securely tape a piece of cardboard against the outside of the transom, then with a pencil or marker, carefully trace along the curve of the transom. Then remove the cardboard and cut carefully with pair of scissors or a razor cutter with a fresh blade along the line you traced. This piece of cardboard will serve as your template for building a jig to shape an inside curve in the PVC stock. 

Build a Jig

I used a piece of two-by-six hardwood lumber about 2 feet in length to build the jig. Using the template, trace the radius of the curve so that it carries from the top edge of the wood to merge with the end of the piece of lumber. Next, use a jig saw or coping saw to cut carefully along the line that you drew, ensuring that the cut is as perpendicular as possible to the broad side of the board, thus creating a flat surface on the narrow edge for clamping and ­bending the PVC 90-degree angle stock. If not, you might have to sand the narrow edge of lumber to obtain a flat and level surface after the cut. 

Tip: Depending on the radius of the curve you need to create, you can use a two-by-four (for a smaller radius than in this project) or a two-by-ten (for a larger radius) to build the jig.

Heat and Bend

Lock the jig into a vice with the broad side vertical and the curved portion on top and hanging over the edge of your work surface to allow the heated PVC to bend around the end of the board. Clamp one side of the PVC angle stock to the top of the jig so that the ­other side of stock is ­oriented upward (to accommodate the inside curve). Gently and slowly warm the PVC in the area of the bend with a heat gun. Keep moving the heat gun to avoid overheating or crinkling of the plastic. As it softens, guide the stock carefully around the radius of the curve until you have created the desired bend.

Tip: A pair of heat-resistant gloves allows you to shape the curve of the heated plastic without suffering any burns to your hands. 

Fit and Trim

Let the angle stock completely cool with the clamps in place until the PVC angle stock becomes rigid again. Then unclamp it from the jig, and test-fit it to the transom edges to ensure that the newly curved piece follows the bend and fits flush on all surfaces. Assuming a good fit, also note where you need to trim the PVC stock on each end, marking both with a piece of masking tape. Cut the angle stock to fit with a miter box and a fine-tooth back saw. Leave at least ¹/₈ to ¹/₁₆ inch of extra length on each end. This will allow you to file down the last little bit of material for the tightest fit possible.

Read Next: How to Apply Clear Coat to a Fiberglass Boat

Drill and Secure

Refit the piece of trim in place—recheck your cuts to make sure everything fits well and flush. Then mark the best location for the mounting screws. Avoid screwing into the apex of the curving portion of the trim or along the vertical leg of the angle stock. Instead, secure it along the straight horizontal portions of the PVC. Drill pilot holes with a No. 21 bit through the trim and into the transom cap, and use stainless-steel 3/4-inch-long No.10 Phillips truss-head self-tapping screws. Bed the surfaces and pilot holes with marine sealant. Don’t overtighten the screws so as to prevent cracking the plastic.

Tip: Before attaching the replacement trim, fill in and seal the old screw holes from the original trim. In this case, I filled in the old holes with Marine Tex. 

The post How to Create Custom Boat Trim appeared first on Boating Mag.

New-boat vinyl has protective antimicrobials that tend to last a year or so. After that, the vinyl can begin to show signs of mildew growth—a sign you’ve waited too long to apply a preventer, because once it appears, removing it completely is pretty much impossible, even though many products, when properly applied, appear to do so. It’s a management problem you’ll have to stay on top of at all times. Here’s how I effectively fight this battle aboard my own boat.

Marine vinyl is treated with persistent antimicrobial disinfectants with a finite life span consisting of months. Frequent contact with sunscreen, sweat, and dirt damages polymers in vinyl and the microbial barriers in it. The best way to treat mildew is to prevent it by thoroughly washing your vinyl after boating to remove oil, sweat and grime. Then treat it with a mildew ­preventer to restore its protective antimicrobial coating.

If you allow mildew to ­appear, you’ll have an ongoing ­maintenance issue of which you’ll never be entirely free. You’ll need to use mildew removers that are various derivatives of chlorine. Star brite’s mildew remover is sodium hypochlorite and sodium hydroxide. The former you know as bleach; the latter is a common compound in spray cleaners. The chlorine or bleach is destructive to threads, fibers, and polymers of your upholstery. Safe use requires thorough flushing after application, though water might not be entirely effective at penetrating stitching to wash out the chlorine.

Xanigo makes a system for mildew treatment that includes a remover, a waterless wash that neutralizes the remover, and a mold and mildew preventer that replaces the antimicrobial coating your vinyl was born with. We used it, and here’s how it works.

Remove the Mold

Xanigo’s mildew remover ($24.99) is a compound of chlorine bleach diluted to a safe handling level while maintaining its lethality to mold. Spray it on while wearing gloves, a mask and safety glasses. ­Goggles are best to ensure that spray doesn’t drift into your eyes.

Neutralize the Bleach

Once the mildew remover is ­applied, rinse well with fresh water and dry, then follow up with Xanigo’s waterless wash ($34.99). Spray it on, paying special attention to seams and threads. Let it sit a minute or so, then wipe it in with a microfiber cloth.

Read Next: How to Wash a Boat the Right Way

Stop Mold Growth

We don’t know the exact chemistry of Xanigo’s mold and mildew preventer ($39.99), but we do know that it works. My three-year-old Ranger bay boat began showing signs of mold at about 18 months of age. The battle is ongoing, but the preventer held off mold for about 90 days, a long life span in Florida’s heat and humidity. 

The preventer comes in a spray bottle, but for the professional ­detailer, Xanigo has designed a 120-volt atomizer ($249.99) or a cordless model ($349.99), which turns its preventer from liquid to near vapor. The effect is to ­provide an optimal coating of the ­preventer that can penetrate the threads, seams, and pores of the vinyl. When left to dry in place, the coating effectively stops mold growth for up to three months. In humid climates, it is wise to reapply in about half that time.

The post How to Protect Your Boat’s Vinyl From Mold and Mildew appeared first on Boating Mag.

As one who worked full-time in a boatyard, I’ve got hands-on experience using boat stands. To this day, my own boat spends the Long Island winter on my own property on boat stands, as did the family’s boats when I was a kid.

The main thing I can share from this lifetime of experience is that supporting a boat on land can be dangerous. It is not something the inexperienced should just assume is just another DIY project. There’s a lot of little details that this job requires that the uninitiated may not see as obvious.

That’s why when I heard that Brownell Boat stands was offering an on-line course that teaches the safe and proper way to use boat stands, I signed up and took the course (I scored a 98 and got a nifty certificate). The Brownell course is worth the $99 bucks in my opinion for anyone who’s boat may spend time on the hard.

Again, blocking up a boat is dangerous. Leaving it to the pros is probably the best bet for most boaters. However, knowing the proper techniques and safety protocols can help boatowners subbing-out the job to know whether their boat is properly and safely supported. An improperly supported boat can be grievously damaged by improper support. Marine surveyors I know can recount many cases involving such damage. And, incorrect placement or use of boat stands can lead to personal injury or even death.

So, what’s in the Brownell course? Here are some of the points covered with respect to powerboat storage (sailboats require some different techniques). This is in no way a complete list, but rather represents a handful of the topics covered.

Weight: Keel blocking, or Brownell Keel Stands, carry the weight of the boat. At a minimum there must be at least two sets of keel support per boat

Number: A minimum of four boat stands should be used for powerboats, with one pair of stands for every eight-to-ten feet of boat LOA a good rule to follow, according to Brownell.

Stability: Place plywood under boat stands on soft or unstable ground.

Tarps: Never tie tarps or boat covers to boat stands. A strong wind can put a great force on boat stands if this is done. Doing so can and has resulted in fallen boats and injured people.

Check: Check stands supporting boats regularly for tightness and balance, as changing weather and temperature may affect ground conditions. Also check that the boat is not sagging or flexing. Freeze and thaw cycles; periods of heavy rain, wind or snow; seasonal changes; these are all events that mean you MUST check the boat stands.

Placement: Boat should be placed so that they are located beneath major structural elements such as the transom and structural bulkheads. If they are not so placed, hull damage may result.

Deep-V Boats: Boats with deep-V hulls may need to use sailboat (Brownell’s “SB” designation) stands at the bow for a proper fit. The SB stands are designed and manufactured to provide support  at greater angles than other boat stands.

For more information about boat stands, blocking boats safely and properly, visit Brownell at: boatstands.com.

The post Boat Stand Safety appeared first on Boating Mag.

It’s time to winterize your boat. Most important in the task list is to minimize the risk of something freezing and being damaged as a result. On most boats, it’s relatively easy to prevent this type of damage. Let’s take a look at some of the most common problems.

Sterndrive/Gear Case

After running the engine to winterize it, if all the water is not completely drained from the drive (for outboards, the gear case or lower unit), any water in the drive exhaust passage can easily freeze, expand and crack the housing. Therefore, be sure to trim the drive all the way down after running the engine for the last time, and watch to ensure all water drips out. Then, cover the prop hub opening with a plastic bag and/or wide tape, especially if you have to trim the unit up again to store the boat. Why? Rain water can enter the exhaust hub, freeze, expand and crack the housing.

Engine Block

Older inboards and sterndrives are particularly susceptible to freeze damage because the engine block drains can be partially clogged with rust flakes and other debris. It’s important to probe the drain with a pipe cleaner or similar instrument, and watch as the last dribbles of water drain out before calling it a season. For good measure, run “RV” (pink) antifreeze through the block as a last step.

Inboard/Sterndrive Exhaust Manifolds

Inboard and sterndrive exhaust manifolds and exhaust risers must be 100-percent completely drained. These are typically cast iron, so rust flakes can easily block the drain petcocks and passages. Running a small wire, tiny bristle brush or pipe cleaner into and out of each drain, as well as using RV pink antifreeze, will help prevent freezing and cracking due to water left in these components.

Water Heaters and Holding Tanks

If not completely drained, water heaters and holding tanks will also freeze and burst, or at least crack and therefore, need replacement. Running pink RV antifreeze through them as the last step will help keep freezing water out. For water heaters, you can purchase (or make) a bypass hose that allows you to use less antifreeze. Also, do not run antifreeze through any water filters.

Read Next: Dozens More Winterization Tips

Freshwater System

If your boat has a freshwater system for drinking water, shower, washdown, etc. then it’s vital to ensure that the drains, faucets, shower heads and hoses are all completely drained. Water left in any of these areas can easily freeze, expand and cause damage. If they leak water after cracking, other areas of the boat can be damaged as well. Running pink RV antifreeze completely through each system from one end to the other (for example, from the shower or washdown head all the way out the drain) will help keep the freeze out). Your saltwater washdown systems can also freeze and crack, depending upon your climate, so treat these the same way.

Bilge and Hull

If your boat is not tilted bow-up in storage, and enough water gets into the bilge and the hull and is trapped there (easy enough, if leaves and other debris are clogging the hull drain tube), it’s very possible the water there can freeze, expand and cause damage to the hull. The bilge pump can also be crushed or cracked from the expanding ice. Preventing this is relatively easy: Keep the boat tilted bow high, ensure the drain plug is removed, and keep debris from blocking the drains.

Bonus Water Trap—Batteries

Batteries should be removed from the boat and kept inside a warm garage, and charged per the manufacturer’s recommendation. Batteries left uncharged in a freezing boat may freeze, expand and crack, rendering them useless next season.

The post Freeze-Damage Prevention for Boats and Marine Engines appeared first on Boating Mag.

Keeping your boat’s carpet looking good is key to keeping your boat looking good. One of the more challenging boat-maintenance chores is extracting sand from your marine carpet. The same tight weave that makes marine carpet so suitable for boat use also allows fine grains of sand to get in there and resist the suction of even the most powerful vacuum. Here is a clever technique for removing sand from your boat’s carpet, plus other marine-carpet-maintenance tips.

De-Sand

To remove grains of sand and other debris that get embedded deep in the weave of boat carpet and often resist normal vacuuming, start with a toilet brush in one hand and your shop vacuum’s nozzle in the other. Begin dry-scrubbing with the toilet brush, which causes sand and debris to jump from the weave, while simultaneously using the vacuum’s ­nozzle in the other hand to suck up the sand and grit that pops out from the weave. You don’t need to scrub too hard: The right pressure is that which gets the sand jumping out of the weave. You’ll know you’re done when the amount of jumping grit is reduced.

Spot Clean

Blot wet stains and sweep or vacuum dry stains, such as chips that got crushed underfoot, as soon as possible. Also as soon as possible, use a dedicated carpet cleaner or dish soap and a brush and fresh water.

Read Next: Best Products To Clean & Renew A Boat’s Unique Trouble Spots

Monthly/Annual ­Cleaning

Use a solution of Simple Green and water, or try a ­dedicated ­carpet cleaner such as Star brite ­Ultimate Carpet ­Cleaner ($13.09 for a 22-ounce spray bottle; defender​.com).

Tip: Regardless of the cleaning method, you must rinse thoroughly to rid the carpet completely of soap or cleaner and dirty rinse water, or it just won’t be clean.

Mold and ­Mildew

Carpet that shows mildew can be cleaned by scrubbing with a vinegar-­and-water solution. Mix 1 quart of white vinegar with 1 gallon of water. Spray on this solution, saturate the area to be cleaned, and then wait a minute or two. Scrub gently with a medium or stiff brush. Rinse thoroughly.

Rust Stains

Commercial rust ­removers often work well on rust-stained carpet. I have used a paste made from baking soda and water, mixed to the consistency of tile grout, with success. Blot the stain with a damp cloth first, then apply with a toothbrush, going in a ­circular motion.

Use A Shop Vac

A wet/dry shop vac can be used for ­initial cleaning—and for de-sanding, as described earlier. It’s also good for removing much of the soap prior to rinsing, plus it goes a long way toward drying your marine carpet.

Do Not Pressure-­Wash

If you pressure-wash, it might cause the carpet to pill or create lines, and it risks breaking the bond with the glue that holds it down. My advice: Leave the pressure washer in the garage and resist the urge to use it for this job.

The post How to Get Sand Out of Your Boat’s Carpet appeared first on Boating Mag.

Having the right tool for the job—it’s a metaphor commonly applied to all sorts of self-improvement genres. On a boat, where problems are bound by length, beam and draft, having the right tool to fix the problem is often a literal requirement. 

In my decades as a yacht captain, I’ve come to rely on my tool bag that stores easily, yet it always has what’s needed to make repairs and keep going, instead of limping home.

Keep It Together

Organized tools are easy to find and harder to misplace. My Custom LeatherCraft 1130 tool backpack was discontinued, unfortunately. CLC’s model 1134 is the closest replacement, although it lacks the fold-out tool row. To keep wrenches in line, I write their sizes with a Sharpie on a simple canvas tool roll.

Wrenches & Sockets

Carrying wrenches and sockets in both metric and imperial sizes gets bulky and heavy, and ­adjustable wrenches don’t fit into tight places. Many repairs require two of the same-size wrench, adding heft. Fortunately, several sizes, such as 5/8 inch and 16 mm, are nearly identical. Others are close, but while 18 mm works in place of 11/16, the reverse is not true—11/16 is too tight.

For all you’ll need and nothing more, start with a set of combination wrenches from 7 mm to 19 mm, and then add 1/4, 5/16, 11/32, and 3/8 inch, 10 mm (you’ll want two of those), 7/16, 1/2, 9/16 (buy two), 3/4, 13/16, and 7/8 inch. I add a double-sided 15/16- and 1-inch open-end wrench and two adjustable wrenches—one 10 inch (with an extra-wide 15/16-inch opening) and another 6 inch with a rubber handle for working near battery terminals. A 10-inch aluminum pipe wrench comes in handy. Pawn shops offer single sizes inexpensively, and note that 18 mm and 3/32-inch sizes are often needed yet skipped in consumer-grade sets of these.

Deep-well sockets often fit when standard-depth won’t. In 3/8-inch drive, you’ll want these sizes: 3/8, 10 mm, 7/16, 12 mm, 13 mm, 14 mm, 9/16, 15 mm, 16 mm, 17 mm, 18 mm, 3/4, and 13/16. My “stubby” 3/8-drive ratchet with an articulating “flex-head” fits into tight places, while a 3/8-drive “wobble” extension accommodates difficult angles. I also carry 1/4-inch drive sockets down to 5 mm and 3/16 inch.

Screwdrivers & ­Pliers

Most jobs fall within No. 0, No. 1, No. 2, No. 3 Philips and 1/8-, 3/16-, and 1/4-inch slotted screwdrivers. Tight places often require 1/4-inch or No. 2 Philips shortened “stubby” or right-angle “offset” screwdrivers. Nut drivers in 1/4 inch, 5/16, and 7 mm won’t slip off hose clamps like a slotted screwdriver does, particularly in cramped bilges. A ratcheting screwdriver with hex-shank twist drill bits makes a serviceable hand drill, and it also turns Torx (star-drive) bits in sizes T10, T15, T20, T27 and T30, as well as No. 1 through No. 3 Robertson (square-drive). Ball-end Allen (hex) wrenches, in metric and imperial sizes, angle into tight places ordinary hex wrenches can’t.

Self-adjusting 10-inch Robo Grip pliers are easier to use than similar arc-joint pliers. I also carry small 7-inch and large ­12-inch arc-joint pliers, along with 10-inch slip-joint and 6-inch needle-nose pliers. Vice-Grips in both 10-inch curved-jaw and 6-inch long-nose varieties, along with wire cutters, wire strippers and a crimping tool, round out my set.

Clean, Cut, Scrape or Pick

A stiff putty knife, sharpened with a file, removes old gaskets without damaging parts or knuckles. Slide a “hose hook” (mine is actually a cotter-pin puller) around the inside of a hose to break it free. A hacksaw with extra blades, two stainless-steel wire brushes (shorten long wooden handles to fit into the bag), dental picks, and a snap-blade utility knife round out sharp and pointy necessities.

Read Next: Six Tools for Spring Make-Ready

Miscellaneous

A telescoping mirror and a small, bright flashlight help you see what you’re fixing, and a strong telescoping retrieval magnet recovers dropped tools. A 16-ounce dead-blow hammer loosens what’s stuck or nudges what isn’t, while screw extractors remove stripped screws. A bicycle air pump pressurizes hydraulic steering reservoirs and freshwater expansion tanks. 

A tape measure, 6-inch stainless-steel machinist rule, and plastic calipers help get the right replacement parts. ­Thexton thread pitch gauges include holes that ­identify screw sizes. You’ll also want small tubes of thread-lock (the blue semipermanent ­variety), pipe-thread sealant, ­gasket-maker compound, Teflon lube, and superglue, along with electrical tape and tie wraps.

And the next time you catch a Forbes article or TED Talk about “the right tool for the job,” remember, it isn’t always a ­metaphor.

Wrench-Size Guide

These wrenches pull double duty:

• 7/16 ≥ 11 mm
• 13 mm ≥ 1/2
• 16 mm ≥ 5/8
• 18 mm ≥ 11/16
• 3/4 ≥ 19 mm
• 21 mm ≥ 13/16 (13/16 works on 20 mm too)
• 7/8 ≥ 22
• 15/16 ≥ 23

The post Choosing the Right Tools for Boat Repairs appeared first on Boating Mag.

After 15 years, the non-slip paint on my boat deck looked faded and dirty. But I put off repainting until the non skid failed and I started slipping and sliding on the wet deck. While a freshly painted boat deck looks great, providing a non-slip surface is the first step in maintaining a safe boat. 

There are several steps to repainting a boat deck. Taping off the area, cleaning the deck, sanding the old non skid paint, cleaning again, painting, drying, adding another coat of paint, drying and clean-up are all essential to getting the job done correctly. 

But the most important step happened before I began the project. Choosing the best marine deck anti-skid paint for my boat deck is directly related to the quality of the final result. With so many choices for non skid paint to match my needs, I took a deep dive into the best boat deck paint for my boat. Here is what I learned.

Quicklook: 6 Top Boat Non Skid Deck Paint Options

• Best for Long-lasting Results: Pettit Paint EZ Deck
• Best for Impact Resistance: Pettit Paint Tuff Coat Rubberized 
• Best Textured Non Skid Deck Paint: KiwiGrip Non-skid
• Best Two Part Deck Paint: Interlux Perfection Two Part
• Best Budget Deck Paint: Interlux Interdeck
• Best Aggregate: Alexseal Non Skid Fine HD

Best Non Skid Boat Deck Paint

Repainting the non-slip surfaces on the boat deck is a big job. Before picking an anti-skid paint, consider how often you use your boat, how much you have to spend, where you work on the boat and what equipment you have to get the job done. 

For easy application, choose a one-part paint system, or to match the boat’s color and provide a more durable surface, go with a two-part paint and non skid additive. To make sense of the choices, I narrowed down my list to the following best non skid marine deck paints for my boat.

Pettit Paint EZ Deck

Best for: Long-lasting results

The simplest way to achieve a durable and good-looking non skid deck surface is using a one-part deck paint with aggregate. Pettit Paint EZ Deck is the top performing deck anti-skid paint for easy application and fade resistance. After the deck surface is prepared, simply stir the EZ Deck to distribute the aggregate and apply three to four coats with a ⅜ inch nap roller. 

Features:

• One step process
• Ultraviolet filters prevent color fade
• Premixed aggregate

Disadvantages:

• Only available in three colors
• For best results, add EZPoxy Paint Enhancer

Price: $182.99/gallon

Pettit Paint Tuff Coat Rubberized 

Best for: Impact resistance

For high-traffic areas and hard use, rubberized deck paint offers a thicker and more durable surface. Often found on commercial vessels, rubberized marine deck paints are flexible, thick and super grippy. Pettit Paint’s Tuff Coat Rubberized non skid deck paint is a one-step paint created by cross-linking urethanes, acrylics, co-polymers and recycled rubber granules to maximize durability and performance. 

I like the rubber granules as the aggregate to maintain consistent texture and prevent wear and tear. The thick coat of rubber paint also provides shock absorption. Non-toxic and water based, Tuff Coat is easy to apply with a roller or brush and easy to clean up with soap and water.

Features:

• Thick material hides surface imperfections
• Submersible
• Shock absorbing rubber aggregate 

Disadvantages:

• Aggressive grip not comfortable on bare feet
• Matte finish only
• Requires primer

Price: $154.99/gallon

KiwiGrip Non-Skid System

Best for: Textured non skid deck paint

Most non-slip deck paint uses an abrasive additive to provide grip on slippery decks. Another option is using a thick deck paint and a special paint roller to dimple the paint for a non skid texture. KiwiGrip Non-Skid System doesn’t require mixing the aggregate with the paint and is softer on bare feet. Textured marine deck paint improves durability because as the paint wears it doesn’t release the aggregate. By changing the application process, customize the depth of the texture for more grip.

Features:

• One component
• Durable
• No aggregate

Disadvantages:

• Requires a special roller or brush (available with the paint system)

Price: $47.99/liter

Interlux Perfection Two-Part Polyurethane Topside

Best for: Two-part non-slip deck paint

For a professional-looking non skid deck, a two-part paint offers the best color, finish and durability. Interlux Perfection Two Part Polyurethane Topside is packaged with the base and catalyst pre-measured for the simplest way for do-it-yourself boat owners to achieve professional results. Two-part paint is chemical, detergent and fuel resistant for the longest lasting deck coverage. Achieve the perfect non-slip surface by choosing the size and amount of aggregate to mix with the base paint. 

Features:

• Wide range of color choices
• Customizable aggregate
• High gloss finish

Disadvantages:

• Expensive
• Requires more prep and post work
• Best with paint sprayer

Price: $140.99/quart

Interlux Interdeck

Best for: Budget deck paint

An easy-to-apply anti-slip deck paint that won’t break the budget, Interlux Interdeck combines an advanced polyurethane with a fine grit aggregate for a one-step application. Spray, brush or use a roller to apply one to two coats of the deck paint. Interlux Interdeck has a low-sheen finish to prevent blinding sun glare off the deck.  

Features:

• Inexpensive
• Apply with sprayer, roller or brush
• Low sheen to reduce glare

Disadvantages:

• Only available in five colors
• Fine grit only
• No UV inhibitors

Price: $77.99/quart

Alexseal Non Skid Fine HD

Best for: Adding aggregate to two-part polyurethane

Two-part polyurethane paint offers the most options for color, finish and durability. By adding a separate aggregate, two-part paints can be customized for grip. Alexseal Non Skid Fine HD is a clear aggregate added to two-part paints to increase grip in slippery surfaces. The advanced synthetic clear aggregate won’t change color as the paint wears for years of reliable grip. Available in fine and coarse grit, choose the size of the aggregate to match the application. Use fine grit in low-traffic areas and heavier grit in spaces requiring more traction.

Features:

• Doesn’t fade or separate from paint
• Mix with any two-part polyurethane paint
• Available in fine or coarse grit for custom application

Disadvantages:

• Requires measuring and mixing
• Expensive

Price: $127.99

Common Types of Non Skid Boat Deck Paint

Do-it-yourself boat owners have several choices for easy-to-use non-slip deck paint that will maintain a safe, colorful deck coating for years of heavy use. For high traffic areas requiring chemical and fuel resistance, choose a rubberized or textured paint. 

To create a smoother texture with customizable grip, polyurethane paints with added aggregate look great and prevent slipping. Polyurethane deck paint with fine aggregate is the easiest to clean after a day on the water. Read ‘How to Repair Gelcoat’ to learn about touching up or repainting the topcoat on your boat.

One Part Polyurethane

Easy to prepare the surface. Easy to apply with a roller or brush. No mixing required. 

Two-Part Polyurethane 

Most durable and best looking topcoat paint. Two part polyurethanes are great for matching the boat’s color and finish. Requires mixing base with catalyst and adding the grippy aggregate. The professional-looking result is worth the extra effort.  

Rubberized

Thick and durable, rubberized deck coating is non-slip and protects the surface from damage. Heavy rubberized deck paint also covers up imperfections in the surface, so it’s great for repainting a non-slip deck. Add aggregate to the rubber paint or use a rubberized paint with non skid particles already added.

Textured 

Textured deck paint creates a non-slip surface with a rough surface texture. Textured anti-slip paints don’t require adding or mixing aggregates. Textured paints are more durable than aggregate paints because they wear evenly without exposing the aggregate embedded in the paint.

Non Skid Coatings

By adding non skid coatings to base paint, I can customize the color, finish and grit to match my needs. In a high-traffic area, I can use a coarse grit aggregate. For areas that don’t see as much action, I can apply a finer grit. I can even choose silica, wood, rubber or synthetic aggregate to adjust the size, shape and traction of the aggregate.

Protect Yourself With the Right Boat Deck Paint

When it’s time to repaint the non-slip surfaces on my boat, I have a wide range of paints to choose from. Depending on the surface, how I use my boat, my budget and my skills and tools, I have easy-to-use paints and high-quality, customizable systems. For the best look and performance, a two-part polyurethane with added aggregate produces the most professional and durable finished product. Sacrificing some color and finish choices allows me to use a one-step non-slip deck paint with aggregate mixed into the single-part paint. 

For the best durability and traction, rubberized paint not only provides solid traction but it absorbs shock and protects the deck surface. Or, I can save time and energy and create a non skid surface by using a textured paint and a special paint roller. 

Not only does a fresh coat of non-slip deck paint look great, but preventing slips and falls on wet surfaces is the first step in avoiding serious injuries. Once I realized how easy it is to repaint my deck, I was more confident to tackle this project on my own. 

FAQ

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It’s midsummer. Time for numerous maintenance tasks that will help ensure continued happy boating. Neglecting some of these might ruin your next trip. Neglecting others might cost you more dearly. You won’t necessarily need to haul the boat to perform these tasks, but a mask and snorkel can prove helpful if the boat’s kept in the water.

Of course, the first thing to check—and you should be checking this regularly—are the fluid levels. Start with engine oil, pulling the dipstick while the engine is cold and the boat is floating or level on its trailer or lift.

Next, check the gear-case lubricant. This would have been topped off at the start of the season, but sometimes air bubbles can ­prevent the oil from finding its proper level. Find the reservoir in your engine compartment and add the specified gear lube per your owner’s manual to the “full” mark. It’s normal to need to top off gear lube once or twice a season.

Related to gear-case oil levels, check your propeller shaft for fishing line. Look between the prop and the gear case for strands of line. If you haven’t knowingly run over fishing line, this might be sufficient. If you have run over fishing line, or just want to be ­completely sure, remove the prop and look. Fishing line can cut the seals, destroying your drive by allowing lubricant out and water in. Shaft seals with line cutters are standard on many sterndrive models.

Gear-case oil-level redux: If you do find fishing line around your prop shaft, haul the boat, drain the drive lube, and look for water. Let the drained lube rest in a clear glass jar, and any water will separate like salad dressing. Also, ­water-contaminated oil will come out looking whitish and frothy, like light coffee. Finding water, I suggest having the drive pressure-­tested. Then, change the seals and refill the lube ­before going back in.

Coolant level should be checked on freshwater-­cooled engines. With the engine cold, remove the pressure cap on the heat exchanger. The coolant level should be at the bottom of the fill neck. Replace the cap, and make sure it seats properly. Run the engine up to operating temperature, and check the level on the side of the recovery bottle. Add the specified coolant to the recovery bottle only when the engine is at operating temperature.

Read Next: Tips for Winterizing Your Sterndrive

Commonly called zincs, sacrificial anodes are also made from aluminum and magnesium. In any case, midseason is a good time to check the condition of these anodes, which sacrifice themselves to corrosion before the metal of the sterndrive gets eaten. Both drive and engine have anodes. Your engine’s  owner’s manual will show you the locations of the anodes. Adhere to the published replacement schedule. As a rule of thumb, replace an anode when it has lost half its mass.

Inspect your fuel filter by loosening the drain screw and draining fuel into a glass jar. Let the fuel settle. If there is water in the fuel, indicated by separation in the jar, replace the filter. Of course, also replace the filter if the specified hours have elapsed. Even for a scheduled change, dump the filter contents into a jar and look for excess water.

You’ll also want to look for physical damage to the drive and prop, be sure to lubricate all grease points per the owner’s manual, and check the belt ­tension. Finally, modern sterndrives have excellent self-protection systems and sensors built in. If you get an alert on the helm display, address it immediately.

The post Midseason Sterndrive Maintenance appeared first on Boating Mag.

Storing a boat on land requires knowledge and experience, for the safety of those involved, as well as for the long-term well-being of the boat being stored.  As we’ve written before, an improperly stored boat can be damaged by misplaced blocking or improper stand placement. 

Out of concern for safety, Brownell Boat Stands, leading maker of boat stands (a.k.a, poppets, jackstands) offers an online course to teach boaters  how to properly block and store vessels. Upon successful completion of the 45-minute course, students will earn a certificate.

I’ll say that this knowledge is required whether you do it yourself or hire the work done. Either way you want the job done right. 

A number of Boating editors have worked in boat yards and have experience blocking boats. We’ll be attending this course as a refresher, and reporting back to you with our thoughts after we complete it.

In the meantime, review the information in the following press release, exercise caution whenever storing a boat, and look for our followup story to come. 

Brownell Boat Stands & Equipment, manufacturer of the highest-quality, safest boat storage equipment on the market, now in its 70th year of operation, announced today that they have developed an online safety training class to teach users how to properly block and store boats. The Brownell Safety Training Program is currently available at a 25% discount and will be until June 30, 2024.

“Safety in our customers’ operations is top-of-mind for us here at Brownell and one of our primary goals when designing our equipment,” said Peter Hughes, Vice President of Sales and Marketing, Brownell Boat Stands. “Through our Safety Training Program, we aim to expand easy access to resources that will improve best practices in yards, dealerships and builders in order to best care for the boats and keep staff safe. Now with a 25% promotional discount, safety is even more affordable.”

The Brownell Safety Training Program consists of a 45-minute course that covers best practices to safely block, support and store all types of boats. Participants who pass the course can print a personalized certificate of completion, which can be used for continuing education credit or other similar programs. The program is accessible to all who are interested, especially new or seasoned professionals, in the hopes of encouraging industry-wide safety practices and the reduction in potential accidents.  

For more information about the Brownell Safety Training Program, visit boatstands.com/training.

For more information on Brownell Boat Stands & Equipment and its entire line of American-made boat storage solutions, visit boatstands.com.

The post Brownell Boat Stands Offers Online Boat Storage Course appeared first on Boating Mag.

The most important element of do-it-yourself boat maintenance is the “do it” part. Too often, the best DIY intentions are undone by procrastination, inattention, cheapness or just plain laziness. I’m not sure why our friend Russ failed to check the lower-unit lube on his Merc 150 this past fall, but last week, when he pulled the Russ-Craft out of its offseason storage spot in the back corner of his pole barn, he noted a puddle of gray, viscous 90-weight on the floor directly under the motor. A bad sign.

Because Russ chose not to check the lube this past fall, he did not know that a substantial amount of lake water had infiltrated the case. The 10-day stretch of below-zero overnight temps in January likely resulted in glacierlike pressure as that water expanded into ice, creating pressure sufficient to fracture die-cast aluminum. There may have even been a dramatic popping sound when the gear case cracked, probably in the middle of a frosty full-moon night as Russ slept beneath a down comforter, dreaming of a summer afternoon at the sandbar. His boat should have been as snug.

Despite the fact that the Mercury 150 was designed specifically for easy DIY maintenance by owners just like Russ, he admitted to not checking the gear-case lube for a few seasons. It always looked fine in the past, so he cut a corner.

Dan the Outboard Man was able to source Russ a good used gear case, which Dan refurbished with new seals, a water-pump kit and fresh lube. Being proud DIYers ourselves, my good friend Chuck Larson and I offered to help Russ replace the gear case this past Saturday afternoon. 

The first job was to remove the old lower unit, and as we got started, Russ said: “Dan says fishing line probably cut through the prop-shaft seal, but I stopped checking for line a few years ago when I got this Tempest prop with the line-cutter holes.”

Chuck and I looked at each other. Then we looked at the propeller. A little tail of fishing line was sticking out of one of the PVS holes in the prop hub.

“Russ, those holes are there to ventilate exhaust around the blades, to help the motor rev up for better acceleration,” I explained. “They are not line-cutting devices.”

“Really,” Russ said as he stroked his chin. “Really. I guess that might explain things.”

We pulled off the prop, and that little tail of line led to greasy bird’s nest of monofilament tangled around the prop shaft, and even more jammed up on the seal, several season’s worth of line. Humiliation can be an excellent tutor, but being good friends, Chuck and I did not rub it in too hard on Russ.

Read Next: The Reverse-Rotation Theory Goes Down in Flames

We offered Dan the old case for parts.

“Just throw it on the recycling pile,” Dan said. “If it had that much water inside, the gears are almost certainly shot anyway. This unit would not have lasted another season. Better that it cracked over winter than failed in the middle of the lake this summer.”

Leave it to Dan to find the silver lining. And remember, Boating friends, if you’re going to do it yourself, do it all. And do it right.

The post The Key to Successful DIY Maintenance appeared first on Boating Mag.